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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Tytan, Oct 31, 2018.
I had a 97 Sprint Ex really a fine bike, yes it is top heavy but once rolling its fine.
New sprag clutch and gaskets etc ordered so while I wait the rear swing arm and suspension got taken apart to clean off 20 years of road grime and regrease all the linkage.
Spent some time at the parts washer and got all the rear suspension parts, center stand and swingarm cleaned up. All the bearings, sleeves and seals were in good condition with minimal signs of rust the bearings were still smooth not full of grit like some I have taken apart in the past.
Everything was reassembled with fresh grease I even remembered to put the chain on before bolting everything together.
Picked up the new sprag clutch and all the gaskets and seals needed to reassemble the engine.
Bottom end is all back together the old sprag would sometimes rotate backward almost 1/4 turn before engaging so it had definitely failed. While the engine is on the bench it's a lot easier to check the valves vs in the frame since I don't have the fancy tool for shim removal the cams came out, a few valves were tight so I'll have to order some shims next week. Looking at the valve cover bolts and gasket I would guess the valves have not been checked in a long time if at all.
A nice package of goodies arrived from England, replacement right fairing, dash trim, low fuel sender, one exhaust cover that was missing and a few misc grommets etc. Next step is to get the painter to assemble the fairing with the new piece then test fit everything before final paint. The bike was previously dropped on the right so I think the fairing mounts may need a little adjustment to get everything lined up nicely. Notice the primer gas tank after the rust removal.
Cockpit dash trim installed.
Started on the header pipe I had to dremel the bolts off so I could remove the trim pieces the header will be sandblasted and repainted with VHT high temp exhaust paint.
More Motolab goodies arrived so I could finish the valve clearances and button up the engine ready to go back in the frame.
Header was sand blasted and repainted with VHT header paint as well as the two horizontal covers on each side. I needed to replace one exhaust stud and replaced all the exhaust nuts the masking tape stops the collars from scratching up the paint during install. Turns out Triumph uses the same size copper exhaust gaskets as an FT500 Ascot since I have an FT500 I bought a 10 pack off eBay so I can do both bikes twice.
I love following along. It's a vicarious thrill, as I always wanted one of these back in the day. Sharpe looking machine, and I readily admit to being partial to three-cylinder engines. Owned and few in the past; still have my beloved Laverda triple!
I had noticed during starting that the headlights stay on when the starter is engaged I remembered on the previous 98 Tiger the headlights went out when the starter was engaged this is done to give the starter as much voltage as possible, which helps the sprag clutch last, so dropping two 55W H4 halogen bulbs during starting makes sense. The white wire in the pic is the main ground for the headlights so I added a relay using the normally closed contacts for the main ground wire and connecting the coil in parallel with the starter solenoid coil now the headlights go out when the starter is engaged. I ran the coil power and ground from the front fairing back to the starter solenoid under the seat as this was the least invasive way to connect the new relay I hate cutting into factory wiring unless there is no other way possible in this installation it is very easily reversed if needed as I used piggyback spade connectors at the starter solenoid.
Good idea, the moto gadget m-unit I have on my bike does the same with turning off the lights when cranking. Anything to get the most power to the starter motor is worth it in my opinion. Have been following along with your rebuild. It is turning out great! Keep on the good work!
I had a 1993 Caspian Blue Sprint. Great bike!
Friend had the British Racing Green '95 with the 6" rear wheel.
One thing we found over here is the Crossover pipe actually protrudes into the header pipe by a fair amount, blocks the flow.
We used a file and filed them back to the weds
Have a look and let me know what you see??
Thanks for the tip I'll remove the exhaust cans and have a look.
I checked the rear wheel it's 17" x 5.5" most of the tire websites list an 18" rear wheel as standard which I think was the earlier models.
Here's the exhaust header same as what you described I'll have to figure out how to remove some of the crossover pipe, holesaw maybe ?
I have also removed the triple clamps and repacked the steering head bearings, no pics though, the bearings are taper and looked in good condition with no marking or wear spots on the races so they were greased and reassembled. I also changed the fork seals and fork oil the seals were not leaking but I figured fresh seals and oil would be a good idea again no pics. The fork oil came out clean and clear which was bizarre for old oil it's usually black and stinky then I found about 1/4" of sludge in the bottom of each fork leg I guess the bike sat so long that all the solids fell out of suspension and settled in the bottom of the fork legs.
The fairing half was replaced then I spent some time test fitting the front fairing and adjusting the mounting frame so all the mounting holes line up properly the frame was out 1/8" to 1/4" probably due to the right side drop I had the fairing on and off about 30 times while doing this. The fairing frame and rear luggage rack are now getting sandblasted and powdercoated and I have also ordered some replacement fairing hardware as it was either incorrect or missing.
"The fork oil came out clean and clear which was bizarre for old oil it's usually black and stinky then I found about 1/4" of sludge in the bottom of each fork leg I guess the bike sat so long that all the solids fell out of suspension and settled in the bottom of the fork legs. "
I have heard of fire departments storing their used engine oil in 55 gallon drums and letting them sit to settle out, then use the cleaner oil on the top of the drum.
Makes sense probably works better than filtering I have never seen it to this extreme though.
Centrifuges work well for oil re-use.
CB/CL/SL350's have small centrifuges instead of an oil filter.
I had 900 Speed Triple. Came to me from auction, had some marks on otjer side and needed new tank. I ended to change Keihins over Mikunis, got newer engine on it, carbon (original equipment) free flow silencers and so. Liked a lot, that engine is very nice.
Its so sad that cant keep them all..