2 stroke fun for 200 bucks

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by hardwaregrrl, Feb 16, 2011.

  1. tbirdsp

    tbirdsp REMF

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    Did you ever say what year this bike is? The fitting I bought for my '76 RM370 works on some years of TS185 (L and M models, have to look up to see what years those are). I could mail it to you as long as you send it back:D
  2. Suzuki Phil

    Suzuki Phil Been here awhile

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    Take a wooden broom handle and sand/grind the end down to an angle. Now take this "tool" and stick into forks jamming it between the fork tube and the dampening rod. Next take air impact with hex socket and remove lower hex screw. I've done this on three sets of forks with no issues. The wood won't hurt anything. Next remove clip and pull out fork seals, clean, replace, assemble, ride.

    SP
  3. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    Hey thanks, but it's an X model. 1981. Not sure it will work, but thanks a lot for the offer.!
  4. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    Phil, are you referring to the "tool" bird wanted to loan me? I don't believe it will work. Looking at the fische, my forks are quite different from previous models.
  5. yamty175

    yamty175 Five Gallon Pails.

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    http://blackcatvintagetrials.com/2008/01/31/how-to-fork-oil-seals.aspx
    These instructions on how to change fork seals are for a yamaha, but I followed them to the letter including buying the same tyre spoons. Once the forks were apart I soaked the seal area in a mix of ATF and Acetone - great penetrant. Still had trouble getting the seals out so I poured boiling water over the end of the slider, couple of whacks on the spoon with the hammer and out they popped.
    Jonny.
  6. Al Tuna

    Al Tuna NSFW

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    These forks are gonna need Gorillia action Jenna, the standard procedure for leakie forks are ride the hell out of it after you get it running and the fork seals come later, unless there gushing! You cant teach these young kids nuthin! :lol3

    Btw It was dusty on the power lines today.

    dusty.jpg
  7. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    I've settled on a bike, Jenna. I want a Bultaco

    [​IMG]

    there's a guy selling 2 on CL right now. He wants $400 for the pair...which I don't have :cry I think I'm going to have to get a job. I'm running out of things to do without money.

    Anyways, they're 2-strokes. I'm going to start tracking down info on vintage 2-stroke racing. Maybe we can start a season within the next year or so. We'll need to get bikes sorted out and practice a bit. If you can talk to those folks you know that race we could get some insider info. Damn this is gonna be fun.
  8. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Absolutely awesome.
  9. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    I apologize for missing this thread.
    And I'm amazed and flabbergasted and a bit alarmed that, with the exception of the PMS bit, you pretty much precisely described many of my instances of frustration with my /2 project.

    I guess they're right. Women really are better at talking about feelings. :freaky
  10. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Which bultacos do you speak of? I'm still in the dirtbike market :D
  11. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    Ha ha....no worries Matt. I gotta admit, I'm a different kind of chick. At 19, I was riding around downtown Detroit with a pink, pearled handle 25 sticking out of my jeans. No work today. No parts to destroy, it's all good.:D
  12. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    The guy at the local VW shop happens to own a Bultaco, a Hodaka and a Husqvarna. He said he used to do trials and hare scrambles with AHRMA. I told him if he knows anybody with a Bultaco for sale that I'd trade them a Volkswagen for it :D I'd like to try racing if it's not too expensive and knowing people that do it would be helpful. I'll tell ya what I find out.

    I tried to turn over the engine in the bug today. Seized. One plug was rusty so I'm betting some moisture got into the cylinders and stuck a ring. I poured ATF in all 4 cylinders and rocked it back and forth until it finally broke free. Valves are adjusted, new plugs, a healthy soaking in oil and a new battery. I think I'll try to fire it up first thing tomorrow.

    When the weather turns bad I'm throwing a tarp over the bug. I'll likely be busy on it tomorrow but I'll be free the rest of the week. If you get some parts in for the Suzi and want some dumb muscle let me know.
  13. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    Got some seals in today, but probably won't work on it till this weekend or next week. I'll let you know, but I did get the crank seal that we can replace without splitting cases. Sorry about the bug.
  14. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    [​IMG]

    Flywheel removal question. Here's my flywheel tool.

    [​IMG]

    So, I don't get it?? The inside isn't threaded and all the manuals I have on these bikes use this flywheel tool. So what do I need to pull this sucker? Is it tool making time? I'll need to get my welder back I guess. Beater to the red courtesy phone...
  15. Al Tuna

    Al Tuna NSFW

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  16. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl Can't shoot straight Supporter

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    Thanks Kirk!!! I think I have a harmonic balancer, if not I think I'll just fab one. Thx!!! Just couldn't get the image in my head....


  17. Al Tuna

    Al Tuna NSFW

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    If you use the Harmonic balancer puller, alignment is critical, make sure your square with the crankshaft. I normally put the nut back on the crank about 2/3 of the way (Like a cup for it to sit in) to help center the puller drive bolt. Once you get considerable amount of pressure on the puller smack the drive bolt sharply (Once) with a hammer, then tighten it more, The flywheel should pop off.
  18. savetosave

    savetosave Adventurer

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    Don't despair or give up yet on the forks; you just missed a key step on loosening the lower allen bolt.

    You don't need any fancy damper rod holding tools. Go back to page 1, and see how you have the bike tied down tight to your trailer. This is how you will compress the fork and keep the damper rod tight while you loosen the alllen bolt on the bottom of the slider. No need for any jury rigged unsafe set ups, just put it back together enough to get it back on the trailer, and get the forks fully compressed.

    Most bolts will loosen right up, but if yours is still stubborn, it may have been loc-tighted in from the factory. Suzuki was plenty corporate paranoid during this period when the front end came apart on Roger DeCoster's works bike at one of the early Supercross events. If necessary, heat up the lower bolt itself to melt off the loc-tite. You must have the fork oil drained out, or it will absorb all of the heat.

    Once you get the sliders apart, a tire iron will make short work of getting the fork seals out. You will need to smooth out and fill in the nicks or your new seals will be destroyed in short order. When you re-assemble the forks don't forget to use the trailer tie down trick in reverse to do the final tightening on your lower slider bolts.

    Good luck!:thumbup
  19. Al Tuna

    Al Tuna NSFW

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    Small Chisel. :D
  20. Al Tuna

    Al Tuna NSFW

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    I take that back I'd still put the forks back on and ride the fooker the exercise makes the old seals more willing to be extracted.:lol3