2 UP FROM 5 TO 9 - from New York to Brazil

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by luciosiq, Mar 29, 2009.

  1. Cutter

    Cutter Girivek

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    Great report and love the pics. Did I miss the reports of your Honduras experience or did you not post it yet?? Cutter
  2. lrd2sea

    lrd2sea Turned orange,...

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    Glad to know that you guys enjoy being in Costa Rica. This is indeed a beautiful country!
    Please keep us posted, ride safely!

    lrd2sea
  3. ddelima

    ddelima Das Moto

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    Lucio & Paula,

    Great trip report and great adventure. I hope to be able to do the same one day in the near future. My wife is from Vinhedo-SP and I am from Limeira-SP.

    Make sure that you drink a cold one at Pinguim upon your arrival in Ribeirao Preto :freaky

    Abracos,
    Daniel
  4. DadRider

    DadRider Biker Traveler Specialist

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    Hello L&P!!!

    I come back from my Patagonian Trip ten days ago (8.000 km in 2 weeks - to fast, but I`ve a job to preserve). Great riding and a fantastic experience shared with 4 fellow riders (the roads, the landscape, some meals and the regional wines).

    Great to know that this report is becoming a meeting point of the "International Brazilian Community":


    <TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=4 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 9870729" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>k7</TD><TD class=alt2>
    My wife is from SP - love Brazil and hope to retire there - but not necessarily SP. I've been traveling to Brazil for more than 10-years... and love it even though I'm sure I see it through my gringo-colored glasses.

    I'm particularly interested in your travels through southern Brazil so I'll keep an eye on this thread. If you're taking requests, :evil Joinville, Blumenau, Itajai, Sao Francisco do Sul are all of interest to me. :augie

    I'm taking a group of four on a riverboat/kayak trip up the Rio Negro from Manaus in about a month. I hope they love Brazil as much as I do!
    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

    Hi, K7!!! I`m from Santa Catarina and, besides living in São Paulo, it`s very greatfull to know about your interest in my Native State. The Itajai region, with the homonym river, is special for kayaking and all the others cities mentioned in your replay are close and could be visited in the same trip. As a suggestion, put in your list this other cities/regions of Santa Catarina: São Joaquim - and Serra do Rio do Rastro; Urubici; Lages; Aparados da Serra National Park (Itaimbezinho Cannyon).


    L&P, Keep in touch and ride safe.

    DadRider
  5. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    Yes. We made it !!!!!

    After riding all the way to the end of Carretera Panamericana in Yavisa - Panama.
    We then rode back to El Llano e crossed the San Blas Mountains to Carti (tough riding - raining a lot).
    From Carti, we took a sailing boat to Cartagena.
    5 days sailing around the San Blas Islands and then to Cartagena.
    We are now resting and enjoying this beautiful city, which reminds us of Antigua and Granada.
    Soon, I will post a detail report on the road to Yavisa and the "road" to Carti.
    We are having a great time.
    Saludos.
  6. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

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    Hola mi amigos, I'm relieved to hear you didn't fall off the edge of the earth, and have sucessfully made the crossing. Looking forward to all the details and photos, when you catch your breath. Hope your enjoying your well deserved R and R. Saludos, Eduardo
  7. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    No. You haven´t missed it.
    I will be posting this specific event in the next few days.
    Take care.
  8. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    So, here is what we did.
    After spending 2 days in Panama City, we took Carretera Panamericana to Yavisa.
    The idea was to go as far as we felt comfortable, visiting the Embera Villages along the road and enjoying the scenery.
    But, we were very curious to see the "end" of Panamericana and Yavisa. So, we rode all the way (about 120 miles from Panama City).
    Yavisa doesn't have much to see, except the bridge that marks the end of Panamericana, where we are not allowed to cross and the beginning of the so famous "Darien Gap".
    Also, it is important to note that there are several Army Checkpoints along the road, from Panama City to Yavisa. They control every single person crossing that part of the country (Darien). We felt very safe talking to the Soldiers and explaining what we were doing.
    They didn't really understand why we were doing that but.......accepted.

    The road to Yavisa is ok. It is a mixture of pavement (they are fixing some parts of the road), rocks, gravel. A bit of everything. But nothing too radical. Any dual-sport bike can do it, no major problems.
    There are gas stations in most towns on the way. Not a problem.

    We spent about an hour in Yavisa, took the pictures (been there, done that) and rode back to Torti where we spent the night at a small hotel (Hospedaje Torti) - Bananaman's Tip. It is a very clean little hotel, with a/c for US$ 10 (double room), not bad at all.
    We had dinner at the restaurant/supermaket (the only one in town). We had a very nice fish - simple and tasty food.
    So, next day we were going to ride across the San Blas Mountain to Carti (Kuna Yala Territory).

    We would really like to thank Bananaman for all the tips, suggestions for this part of the trip. It really helped us. Thanks a lot !!!
  9. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
    Ready for the Darien Gap

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    another way to get there

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    Army Checkpoint on the way to Yavisa

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    Got there !!!

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    The end of Panamericana - Yavisa

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    Yes. We did it !!!

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    Paula and her friends in Yavisa

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    This is it. Time to turn around and head north.

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    Embera Communities along the road
  10. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    So, on our way back from Yavisa, we stopped in Torti for the night.
    Next day, we got up early and rode some 50 miles back on panamericana to El Llano. From there, we took a small road which crosses the San Blas Mountains (Kuna Yala Territory) to Carti - around 25 miles.
    The road started with a very steep hill, full of rocks. It was very hard to control the moto.
    But, things were going to get worse.
    The rain started and now we had a very slippery road.
    After riding a few miles, we kissed the ground for the first time. Nothing major as we were riding very slowly. A pick-up with 4 british guys stopped to help us fix the moto.
    A few more miles later and we fell again. The same story, but this time we had to fix the moto ourselves.
    And it happened again for the third time
    By this time we were already considering turning back and riding to Panama City.
    Then, we were stopped by some Kuna Gentlemen.
    We were supposed to pay this fee for crossing Kuna Territory (US$ 3 per person plus US$ 2 for the bike).
    We were very tired and just paid it.
    We asked the guys if we were too far from the Carti Airport (our destination). They told us that we were about half of the way. That is, around 12 miles.
    But they said that the road was better from that point on, including.....................the river.
    River. What river ???
    Yes. But apparently it had no water.
    So, we thought it would be better to just keep on going.
    After riding a couple of miles we found the "dry river".
    Now we had a serious problem. We just set by the river and started discussing our options.
    2 small trucks arrived to also cross the river.
    We discussed the best points to cross it. One guy walked/swam to the middle of the river to see how it was. He had water up to his belly. But he was a very short man. So, we thought we could do it.
    I told Paula to move to the truck. She wasn't very happy but accepted as this was going to be a bit risky.
    So, the first truck crossed the river ok.
    Next, it was my turned. I must say I was really scared.
    So, I started the "crossing". I tried to follow the same path of the first truck and tried to keep the moto moving.
    I felt the cold water in my boots and up my legs. I kept on going and finally made to the other side of the river.
    I was very happy. The guys on the other side of the river were cheering and clapping their hands.
    So I guess this event gave us additional strength to continue the battle to get to Carti Airport.
    The rest of the road was pretty much the same : mud, water and slippery rocks.
    Then, suddenly, the truck that I was following made a right turn and we were now riding on some paved road.
    Pavement in the middle of that jungle ?
    We were riding on the airport runway.
    We made it !!!

    We were very very tired but very very happy.
    I think I drank a few gallons of water and just sat there resting.
    Some people were waiting for us at the airport (which is not really an airport) to help put the bike on this small boat which would transfer the moto (and us) to the Sailing Boat. We did this operation on a nearby small river.

    To raise the moto to the sailing boat, we used the mast and the main sail sheets (ropes). That operation was straight forward.

    After all that, we just relaxed the rest of the afternoon.
    At night, we went to visit a Kuna Village. Very interesting.
    Next morning we started sailing around the San Blas Island.
  11. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
    Ready to go

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    San Blas Mountains

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    Kissing the ground - 1st time

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    The "dry river"

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    More water and mud

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    Riding on the Airport Runway

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    "Passenger Terminal" at Carti airport
  12. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    Some people have already sent me some messages asking if it was worth all the effort crossing the Darien Gap by boat, instead of just putting the bike on a plane in Panama City and getting it in Medellin or Cali.

    Well, after going through this experience, Paula and I sat down to talk about it (while having a beer or two - of course).
    In our opinion, it was worth every minute of it.
    We saw some of the most beautiful views we have ever seen. We rode in the middle of the jungle, met some interesting Kuna People, visited their villages, enjoyed some caribbean beaches and sailed (something we really enjoy).

    The only thing I have to say is: if you are considering this option to cross the Darien Gap, just be prepared to face some unexpected events. Nothing major. But things may not just happen exactly as you planned. This is really adventure.
  13. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    Fala Daniel,

    Hope to have a cold one at pinguim soon.
    maybe, one day we ride together.
    Até mais,

  14. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    Hola amigo,

    Yes. We didn't fall off the edge of the earth. But we did fall off, for sure (a few times).
    The whole experience was fantastic.
    We are really enjoying this adventure.
    Hope you are well and already planning your next one (to South America).
    Saludos

  15. scram1

    scram1 Dark Knight

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    Wow! What a great trip so far! :clap:clap Thanks so much for posting. This is a dream trip for me, something I would like to do in the future (when the kids are older), and I am very interested in your report. So, I am subscribed and taking note of your travels. Good luck and many blessings to you two and safe travels on your journey! Whenever you return, I would love to meet and learn more about Brazil and traveling the Americas by motorcycle.

    Marc:ear
  16. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

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    Hola Lucio and Paula, Congratulations!! What an accomplishment.:clap
    Thanks for the absolutely incredible report. Fantastic photos, as I scrolled through them, it was like a movie. Paula, your'e really good at those action shots, loading boats, crossing "dry" rivers, and mud lakes, but I was wondering how you get across? I can just picture you wading through piranna infested swamps, while Lucio rides across in style. :rofl

    Your account of the road to the airport was exciting. I'm glad that you weren't hurt dropping the bike, but that's why we wear riding gear. Sometimes it's a big hassle to wear, especially in the heat, but as they say "dress for a drop, not for comfort". I always think it's not a matter of if I'll drop the bike, it's when. The V-Strom looks like it has really met the challenge of the trip and is holding up well, great bike. Meeting the locals is a really fun experience, people are at least half the trip, eh? Soak it up, this is a trip of a lifetime, and the real world is totally boring in comparison. :bore

    Appreciate all the effort of your ride report, Gracias amigos, Saludos, Eduardo
  17. cranbo

    cranbo Adventurer

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    Hola Lucio and Paula

    Your report is exciting and inspiring. The get-off, river crossing, boat photos say it all...that's some high adventure! Happy to hear you are doing well.

    :clap:lurk:lurk:clap

    I was curious, are you happy with the Givi luggage system so far? Was looking at some Givi cases, and was wondering which you were using? And what tank bags?

    Boa viagem!
  18. luciosiq

    luciosiq Been here awhile

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    Also, I forgot to mention that you don't have to take the boat in Carti. In fact, most of the Sailing Boats loaded with motolcycles leave from Puerto Lindo (near Colón) which is an easier ride.

    Boat Trips from Panama to Cartagena (and vice-versa) can be arranged at :
    Wunderbar Hostel (in Panama): www.hostelwunderbar.com
    Casa Viena Hostel (in Cartagena): www.casaviena.com
  19. FalangADVenturer

    FalangADVenturer Adventurer

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    Awesome RR, keep up the good work, and be safe:D
  20. bananaman

    bananaman transcontimental

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    :clap :clap :clap :clap

    I didn't know you were going to ride to Carti! WOW!!! And you did it TWO UP!!!

    :clap :clap :clap :clap