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2001 Gas Gas TXT 321

Discussion in 'Trials' started by Grynch, Sep 14, 2019.

  1. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,440
    Location:
    Bay area
    Just picked this thing up. Looks like it has a total of about 5 hours on it..tires look brand new.
    IMG_20190911_192155626.jpg IMG_20190911_192219104.jpg
    Gear oil was clean, but had the Afro
    On the drain plug.. IMG_20190914_095741353_HDR.jpg This is it clean.
    IMG_20190914_095948583.jpg

    I opened screw on water pump this all that came out.
    IMG_20190914_113543654.jpg
    Pulled tank, opened radiator cap.
    No bueno.
    IMG_20190914_112913797.jpg

    Water pump outlet clogged.
    IMG_20190914_115050036.jpg
    Pulled hoses. Flushed with garden hose.
    I fired it up. Ran pretty good for not running in fifteen years. Still leaks from cap. I filled it with water and vinegar, as per other inmate suggestions.
    IMG_20190914_165327266_HDR.jpg
    Anybody have other suggestions on cleaning coolant system?

    Also frame is rusty, what should I use? The frame is chromed?
    Anyway , any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
    #1
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  2. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,440
    Location:
    Bay area
    FYI, before I started, I took off the spark plug and put some two-stroke oil in the cylinder. The previous owner must have drained the tank and carb. It seems to run pretty good. Must have been a long time ago. Pre California summer blend B.S.
    #2
  3. D2W

    D2W Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2017
    Oddometer:
    322
    Location:
    Summerland, B.C., CANADA
    Congrats. It's always nice to see 'old' metal saved from the wrecker and given the life it deserves (albeit 18 years late). :clap

    Brake fluid is hydroscopic (i.e., it attracts water), and so I'd suggest flushing your brake systems. I don't know if that year of GG used brake fluid or mineral oil for the clutch, so that might benefit similarly.

    Is the air filter foam in a good state, or has it broken down and crumbled?

    Check the tank for rust. As a precaution, replace or install a fuel filter between the tank and carb.
    #3
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  4. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,440
    Location:
    Bay area
    Those are all on the list! Foam is good.
    #4
  5. D2W

    D2W Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2017
    Oddometer:
    322
    Location:
    Summerland, B.C., CANADA
    And thinking back to the other 'rescue bikes' I've helped out with ... the suspension linkage bearings often are in need of replacement, as well as greasing the swingarm bolt. If your bike is clean, now is the time to do it. Just be aware that rust has had 18 years to form, so be patient if that bolt refuses to budge at first.
    #5
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  6. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,516
    Location:
    New York... The Finger Lakes
    New tires, as those 18 year old ones won't do you any favors.... no matter how new they look!
    #6
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  7. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    15,989
    Location:
    Dubuque, Iowa
    The wife's 1994 Miata she bought new, still has the original tires on it. They're wearing like iron now!
    #7
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  8. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,516
    Location:
    New York... The Finger Lakes
    Does your wife like to toss it hard into a cold wet corner, and get on the gas early?:y0!
    #8
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  9. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Bay area
    The water/ vinegar came out looking like this today. IMG_20190915_093124001_HDR.jpg
    #9
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  10. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    15,989
    Location:
    Dubuque, Iowa
    Even that won't break them loose, it's got so little power.
    #10
  11. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,440
    Location:
    Bay area
    I will still run the tires IMG_20190915_133422914.jpg crack in dust boots IMG_20190915_133510558.jpg IMG_20190915_133510558.jpg IMG_20190915_133506130.jpg surface crack in intake manifold IMG_20190915_133525303_HDR.jpg surface rust
    IMG_20190915_133612274_HDR.jpg IMG_20190915_133624309_HDR.jpg IMG_20190915_133539605_HDR.jpg

    For a bike that has sat for the last 16 years, she runs pretty good. IMG_20190915_133643323_HDR.jpg IMG_20190915_133647825.jpg

    Attached Files:

    #11
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  12. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

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    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Can I put the green coolant in the system?
    Or is there aluminum, magnesium issues?
    #12
  13. Brewtus

    Brewtus Buffoonery, Inc.

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    7,464
    Location:
    Portales, New Mexico

    I'm willing to give it a shot.... :evil
    #13
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  14. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    15,989
    Location:
    Dubuque, Iowa
    Last year there was a kid at a local trials and he was having a horrible time with traction and I noticed his tires were over inflated. I mentioned it to him and he said he had already lowered to 2psi, because someone else had suggested the same thing. He was riding an early 2000's GG Pro with original tires. I suggested 0psi, don't know if he did it or not.

    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

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    It is wierd, the rubber is still super soft and pliable. Won't be riding events.....we will see.....If I was racing asphalt, I would change them in a heartbeat
    Still have to fix the brakes, need to change fluid and sand pads.
    #15
  16. flyinfuzz

    flyinfuzz 2 Quarts low

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,463
    Location:
    At the bottom of the stairs
    2001 used regular brake fluid . bought one new , kept it until about 4 years ago . It has a great motor to learn with , pulls like a tractor .
    #16
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  17. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    2,970
    Location:
    RICHMOND VA
    Hoss can probably run the vin on the tires and tell you what tree they came from
    #17
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  18. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    15,989
    Location:
    Dubuque, Iowa
    Why not?
    #18
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  19. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,440
    Location:
    Bay area
    It came without papers, I am waiting for the MSO.
    There used to be an event at Hollister Hills. It was an ARMA event. Upper ranch old GP track... The winery, which came after, finally got it cancelled.

    No events, riding private property in the redwoods.
    #19
  20. Hoss Cartright

    Hoss Cartright 219.474.6657

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2016
    Oddometer:
    970
    Location:
    Galapagos Islands
    Actual displacement is 327cc (84x60mm)
    #0000 steel (or brass) wool with WD40 on the chassis rust
    The "fuzz" on the drain-plug magnet is normal.
    Gearbox oil 650cc and what works best is 5W30 normal engine oil (not synthetic) I use Castrol GTX that I buy at Walmart. But you can use anything the oil experts on this forum tell you as there are lots of people here that will be delighted to begin a 30 page oil discussion, and for sure, every one of them knows much more than I do about oil.
    I have the fork wipers (and seals if you need them) in stock in my Indiana warehouse. Fork oil is 7wt. 300cc each leg.
    I have the air filter in stock in my Indiana warehouse.
    I have the intake manifold in stock in my Indiana warehouse.
    I have ALL engine parts in stock in my Indiana warehouse, regardless of how deep you want to go.

    The HEBO Calipers were the biggest problem with these bikes. (1999~2001 and TXT Edition 02, TXT Edition 03, TXT Edition 04) Even when new I was replacing and messing with lots of these for simple defects related to casting porosity and manufacturing tolerance stacking. At one time, when the bikes were still relatively new, I had accumulated a five gallon bucket full of reject warranty replacement calipers. Then years later I was using this hoard to rob parts to fix other ones. This supply of parts is now depleted.
    They were/are not very well made and consistently foul between the piston and bore surfaces. I have the brake pads in stock but the caliper rebuild kits are very hard to find and now long obsolete in my warehouse. (I do have some HEBO caliper odds and ends still around but not much) Machining tolerance variations makes the caliper kits hit and miss. Because of the poor tolerance controls in manufacturing, some pistons do not fit some of the bores so sometimes some parts shuffling is necessary. If you hit the wall on these calipers, I have in stock the replacement "change-it-out-and-fix-it-forever" caliper kits. I sell a lot of them nowadays as these bikes are old enough that these components have reached the end-of-life range.


    The water-pump will likely fail soon due to the long period sitting. I have the individual parts (or complete rebuild kit in stock) in my Indiana warehouse. You will know as your gearbox oil will be a "milkshake" which you will see through the sight-glass.


    It would be a good idea to take out the clutch plates and inspect each of the fiber discs to be certain that the fiber material is still firmly attached to the metal plates. (Water-pump leakage, the same condensation corrosion that rusted the chassis, freezing and thawing expansion/contraction while in storage all contribute to failure of the fiber plate bondings. Keep in mind that more than 50% of the clutch was not submerged in oil during this long period of storage so the plates may have an odd type of failure due to deterioration of the exposed surfaces above the oil level.
    The outer clutch pressure plate is "indexed" so best to watch my video. (I have complete clutch fiber and metal plates sets in stock in my Indiana warehouse.)


    If the radiator cap seems to be OK and still leaks, try dropping a simple garden-hose rubber washer into the radiator to tighten-up the gap between sealing surface and cap rubber. These radiators had production anomalies and some bikes needed this easy fix even when new. When the engine gets hot, the cap will still retract enough to allow coolant expansion to escape. Any 50/50 anti-freeze/coolant mix works perfectly. These do have magnesium engine center-cases but the clutch cover (location of water pump) and all of the cooling system components are aluminum and do not touch the magnesium, so there was never a problem with galvanic corrosion of any kind on this TXT engine series.

    Don't be surprised if the rear shock soon fails (loses all damping and leaks oil) as this is an unfortunate side-effect of bikes that have been in long term storage. There are guys around that can do a high quality rebuild of the shock.

    Critical is understanding the rear air-box/rear fender mud-shield placement.
    #20
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