Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Trials' started by Grynch, Sep 14, 2019.
Yeah, I know, back to Motul it is.
I mixed it 32 to 1 just in case....I will change to 60 to 1
80 to 1
I know some desert racers who swear by Wallylube, they say that the top-ends and powervalves are always spotless at bi-yearly teardown. These boys are serious, CR500s in aluminum CR250 frames to this day.
It made me a better rider, because I wanted to stay in front of this guy!
I could go real deep into this rabbit hole... but..
My 327cc bike, 1995 UTE CUP with Sunoco 95 Ultra pump Premium (a different time back then with fuels at the gas stations) mixed 100:1 with WallyWorld Pennzoil petroleum chainsaw premix oil.
And, taking 100:1 ratio petroleum based oil bikes apart that were spotless and well-lubed.
And working on customer bikes that were synthetic 32:1 that had the rings glued into the pistons with goo and getting the bikes going again and then coming back into the shop with internal silencer on-fire after I took it down the road for testing... and and and.... :)
Oh Oh another oil thread!
I feel better about my Wally world oil.
Buying a brand name oil at Wallyworld, and buying Wallyworld oil..... Two different things!
Probably run Motul.
I always used Bel Ray products until I started back to riding trials and my bikes ran terrible. About that time we were working on RM 80`s ridden by Ivan Tedesco and the Johnson`s. We switched to Maxima Super M and the engines were super clean inside. I have run Super M ever since. My two cents are until you have torn an engine down, you really have no clue about what that trick oil is doing to your insides. Kinda like you are what you eat. I obviously am made of hops and barley.
Thanks, that was the consensus with Silkolene back in the 90 ' s, amongst the two stroke road racing padock.
What the hell, I like rabbit holes....
I ran Motul 800 in my Trials bikes because of past experiences road-going and Roadracing Yammie 2-strokes. Back then, Motul and Silkolene were the popular oils among the 2-stroke racers, both Modern and Vintage. For years I battles (and mopped up) a pesky gooey black drool that would always start dripping out of the silencers of my Trials bikes after 1 event, and chase a couple of niggling jetting issues at part-throttle. Finally fed up and frustrated with the dreaded black drool I did a bit of research and changed to Motul 710 at the beginning of this season, after learning that 800 is more of a high RPM lubricant (why it was popular in Roadracing and Desert Racing). The Trials bikes don't rev high enough for long enough to completely burn the 800 mixture, and I even "leaned it out" a couple of times in the 315s to 90:1 (never had the nerve to go 100:1) with little change. After the switch to 710, the dreaded black drool as all but ended, niggling jetting issues suddenly disappeared, and spark plugs now live longer as well. And like Line has suggested, I have torn down a top-end run on the 710 this season, and it looks just as daisy-fresh as it did on the 800. Motul 710/aviation fuel or Sunoco racing fuel for this kid. YMMV. Point of this rant is to not be afraid to experiment a bit until you find one you like, and makes the spark plug in your bike smile.
There, that ought to toss a can-'o-worms into the 'ol rabbit hole.....
I switched to Amsoil Saber a couple years back and run 80:1 in both my KTM and TRS. I haven't had a cylinder off a bike in 20 years, but everything seems to keep running.
I ran the 710 in my 03' Yamaha Zuma 50 cc scooter. It ran well. I ran out of oil so I started running Walmart Supertech two cycle oil. I think it is a mistake.. That is what I get for being a cheap bastard.
710 it is!
Well, I just put in thirty minutes on the bike.
The fan was hitting on something and I could not figure it out. Well..... I reinstalled the radiator and found the culprit. It is the shield that protects the electrical tabs for the thermostat sensor.
I guess it came this way from the factory.
look at ends of fan
Looks like the yellow wire got chafed on the frame.This might be the reason the lights shorted out and the fan does not come on.
Is the sensor pointed the right direction or should it be pointed down or 180 degrees from current position?