2002 KTM 640 Adventure rehab

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by psych-o, Jan 11, 2020.

  1. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
    155
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    Just picked up this 640 Adventure. Overall it's in decent shape, turns over, and has good compression. Here is what it looked like when I arrived to pick it up:

    IMG_2677.JPG

    It also came with no spark. My first item of order has been to strip all the aftermarket wiring to clean things up, with the next step being to track down the problem with the ignition system. Here it is currently:

    Screen Shot 2020-03-16 at 10.22.13 AM.png

    In the meantime, I've come across this button panel in the second picture. At first I thought it was for the aftermarket heated grips, but it isn't. The wires from it have what looks like a factory male/female plug situated behind the headlights. Does anyone know what it's for?

    Screen Shot 2020-03-16 at 10.22.21 AM.png






    Input greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
    #1
  2. Moose465

    Moose465 Adventurer

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    That controls your speedometer functions. Good luck with the rest of the wiring.
    #2
  3. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Ah, thank you Moose465 that explains it!

    We'll see how the rest of the wiring goes, I suspect I'll be seeking more help at some point very soon.
    #3
  4. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer Supporter

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    I have an unused seat concepts seat for that bike. Incase you are looking for one.
    #4
  5. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Thanks Parx, it came with a decent Rich's seat, I'll probably stick with that for now. You have any other 640 parts?
    #5
  6. Whodatschrome

    Whodatschrome Long timer

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    And the official name for it is “tripmaster switch”.
    #6
  7. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Good to know, thanks Whodatschrome. Hope it actually can do some tripmastering at some point.
    #7
  8. Whodatschrome

    Whodatschrome Long timer

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    It lets you scroll your trip odometer mileage forwards or backwards. Indispensable for dual sport events that require the use of a roll chart.
    #8
  9. joe cool

    joe cool Long timer

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    Looks to be in pretty good shape overall. not bad for 500 bucks.
    #9
  10. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    It is in decent shape, all the parts are there and looks like it was pretty well maintained. Bought it from an estate sale so didn't get any history on it. I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.
    #10
  11. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    $500 is a smoking deal! Good luck with the rehab.

    Get yourself a wiring diagram & check through the ignition interlock circuitry (sidestand switch / clutch switch / neutral sender) as well as the normal ign stuff. Wires broken inside the insulation under the dash can be a real gotcha too. Also check the bundle of loom where it goes into the igniter box connector. There's likely some redundant wiring you can strip out while you're on the job too.

    To tidy up the accessory power I ran a fused heavy feed up from the batt to a relay under the dash & switched that off the park light.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #11
  12. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Much appreciated Clint, these sound like excellent places to start. Hopefully going to get some time this week to dig into it.
    #12
  13. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    '99 KTM 640 wiring diagram .png

    Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for this bike (2002 640 Adventure R)?

    I found this one above, which someone helpfully took the trouble to color code, but it looks like it's for a '99. I can see the many similarities but I'm wondering if there might be some important differences that could throw me off if gone undetected.

    Any input greatly appreciated!
    #13
  14. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Here ya go:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Cheers
    Clint
    #14
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  15. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Superb, thank you Clint!!!!!
    #15
  16. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Screen Shot 2020-02-29 at 2.13.04 PM.png Hey folks, another electrical system question has come up with my little project. I'm stumped with what is probably a very easy fix, but I'm at an impasse with it nevertheless. It has to do with the regulator rectifier.

    First of all, from what I can tell it's not the OEM R/R, but one from a KTM 950. As such, it has two extra wires, for a total of seven, instead of the five on the OEM version. So what I have is the three yellow wires that go to the stator, two red and white ones that go to an adjacent plug, and –here's the mystery– two green ones joined together at the end with what looks like a ground connector (see attached photo).

    I read somewhere else that somebody, using the same 950 regulator on an LC4, soldered the two greens together with the two red and whites, because on the 950 they go to the same place. I wanted to double check with you all on this because it's counterintuitive, to me at least, to wire grounds and positives together.

    The other thing is that it looks like the PO just had the greens with the eye connector going directly to the positive terminal on the battery. Does this makes sense?

    Any thoughts or help would be warmly welcomed, and thanks in advance!
    #16
  17. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Ok, think I found the answer. After finding the following discussion (thanks to 4skins and shadowchrome):

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/2007-adv-990-abs-question-on-electrical-wiring.1167794/

    I went as directed to Bartron's excellent how-to with photos:

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/dirty-990-mosfet-voltage-regulator-rectifier-install.1065952/

    The thread obviously pertains to a 990, but the OEM R/R Bartron took off his bike is the same R/R that the PO installed on my 640. As Bartron points out –which answers my question– the dual green wires connect to a ground pole on the 990's starter. Thanks Bartron!
    #17
  18. NitroAcres

    NitroAcres MotoBiggots Suck Supporter

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    Will your seat clear that unit?? I know mine are really close on a couple of the LC4's..I think I had to shave the one down on the SXC
    #18
  19. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Good question Nitro, it does stick up alot. The PO modified the OEM bracket so the 950 R/R could attach to it. Although the seat wasn't on the bike when I picked it up, I'm assuming it fits because of the bracket mod. I realize that might be a faulty assumption, keep you all posted if the seat does clear it!

    Right now I'm cleaning up some of the adjacent wiring going to the R/R, including the plug in the photo above with the two red and white wires. One of the sockets in the plug has three very small gauge wires going to ground, and the insulation on one of these thin ground wires apparently has gotten hot enough to melt it in places (you can almost see it in the photo, just behind the plug). Anyway, I'm replacing that wire, and cutting out the unneccessary male/female plugs on the red/white wires going into the plug.

    With everything else going on in life, it's one small step at a time on this project!
    #19
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  20. psych-o

    psych-o Been here awhile

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    Well with caronavirus slowing things down I've had time to delve into the bike over the last few days. Here are the highlights: Somehow –I think– the PO had miswired the 950 R/R. If you look at the photo above of the R/R wiring (2/29) as it was when I got the bike, you can see the OEM half of the plug (red/white wires+brown wires at the far end of the plug) coupled with the aftermarket half (two red/white wires), which are the wires coming towards you in the photo.

    The two unneccesary light blue, male/female plugs you can see that are connected to the red/white R/R wires needed to go, as they didn't seem to be serving any purpose. So I cut them out, and soldered those two wires directly into the plug, as they were. I didn't inspect where they were going, assuming they were correct.

    Well, on the OEM half of the plug, one of the red/yellow wires goes to the primary power fuse, and the other wires are brown, and go to ground. The way it was wired into this plug from the PO, one of the red/white R/R wires plugged to the red/yellow primary power wires, and the other red/white wire plugged into the ground wires.

    So, wait for it, I know you already know what's going to happen. When I turn the key, POP, main fuse goes. I trace the wires and see that the brown wires are in fact ground, and isn't it weird that a red and white wire would be going to a ground wire. But stranger things have happened I guessed. So after looking everywhere else for a short, I track down a 990 (hoping it's close enough to a 950, couldn't find the latter) wiring diagram and see that both reds coming off the R/R go to primary power. So I rewire it with both red/whites coming off the R/R to go into the yellow/red primary power wire on the other side of the plug, and no more blown fuse.

    All the above was related to just wanting to clean up the PO's wiring. Now on to the real problem, if you're still reading: No spark. Dash lights all work, engine spins great on the magic button, so no problems there that I can tell.

    Here's what I've ruled out:

    – Thoroughly checked all Molex connectors, added dilectic grease to most of them. They all look good with not much corrosion at all. Inspected all wiring, including pulse generator wires, coil wires, condensor wires, CDI wires, etc.
    – Clutch safety switch had been removed, with the wires halfassedly jumped to close the switch. I put in a better, soldered jump wire.
    – Tried a different spark plug.
    – Clipped off 3/8 of an inch on the plug wire in case it was corroded or something, reinstalled the boot, checked resistance in plug wire. All good.
    – Checked resistance in coil. It is in spec. Checked coil to ground, all good.
    – Checked ground and power to CDI. All good there.
    – Removed stator cover for visual inspection of stator and pulse generator. Stator looks new. Wires look intact coming off the pulse generator.
    – Inspected wiring inside the start/stop switch on the bars.
    – Inspected ignition switch wiring. Found broken blue wire (see photo, note that I had already prepped the insulation to solder it).

    Screen Shot 2020-03-14 at 2.58.53 PM.png

    Thinking this was the problem identified, I resoldered the wire and was optimistic as I reinstalled the switch.

    But, alas, nothing. Still no spark.

    So now I'm thinking it must be the CDI. I've looked to find one and, other than a used one or two for alot of money, haven't been able to find one.

    So two questions: 1) does anyone know of how get a CDI for this bike, or if there are substitutes that will work? and 2) Any other troubleshooting/ diagnostic ideas?

    Any and all advice would be very greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance!
    #20