2004 R1150GS No Spark

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by gijetro, Mar 6, 2017.

  1. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    Hi,

    This is my first post here normally I dive into as many other threads as I can before asking for help but I'm in a bit of a pinch here and need some help. I have a 2004 R1150GS dual spark with around 45k on it. I've had the bike for a year now and so far the only issue I've had is a weak starter which was replaced last summer. Long story short I have decided to part ways with the bike due to family and financial obligations. I'm in central Indiana so up until a week or so ago the bike was in storage in my garage with stabil in the tank and a BMW tender on the year old odyssey battery. I took it out two weeks ago to take pictures to post it for sale and had no issues getting the bike going. Yesterday I had a guy scheduled to come look at the bike in the afternoon, in the morning I got it out and it fired up fine but stalled when I went to take it out of the garage. After that I couldn't get it started so I cancelled my appointment with the potential buyer. I know I'm getting fuel as I pulled an injector to check spray which seemed fine and I can smell gas in the exhaust. I checked spark on the side plugs but cannot get any spark on either, plugs were new last spring but were black when I pulled them. Sometimes it will try to fire on the right cylinder but nothing on the left. I do think the battery may be weak so I left the charger on it overnight and tried starting again this morning with no luck. With a voltmeter I'm getting 13.5 volts with nothing on, 13.3 with the ignition on and it dropped below 6 when cranking so I tried to jump it from my truck still no firing or spark. I disabled the side stand switch last night to eliminate that but I'm stuck on what to check next. I wouldn't think it'd be a HES or stick coils since the bike started fine earlier in the day and cold two weeks ago. What do you guys suggest I check next? I don't really want to dump a bunch of money in tools or parts that may not correct the issue since I'm selling but I do want to get it going good to not screw the next guy. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    #1
  2. Drunk_Uncle

    Drunk_Uncle Long timer

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    The fact that it dropped to 6Vdc under load indicates most likely a bad battery. I hope your truck was not running when you tried to jump it. An overloaded started could be a problem, but you need to start with a know good battery that will load test over 10Vdc.
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  3. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    Unfortunately it was running, what other issues could I have introduced with this? It never even crossed my mind to turn it off.I'll get a new battery as soon as I can and try that.
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  4. Drunk_Uncle

    Drunk_Uncle Long timer

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    The 1150 is a 40 amp system while your pickup truck could have up to a 200 amp alternator. The regulator isn't designed to handle that load. If all four spark plugs have no spark and the ignition components all test good will a know good battery, I would lean toward the Hall Effect Sensor.
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  5. miker325

    miker325 Been here awhile

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    +1 on the battery being the culprit. Get a known good battery and give it another try. The only other thing I'd do is check all the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight, including the wire to the starter.

    I'd not worry so much about having the truck running when you tried jumping the bike, although it's not recommended for the next time you use a car or truck as a donor battery.

    Post up what you find worked!
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  6. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    Thanks guys I'll get a battery as soon as I can and give it a try. And I appreciate the heads up about jumping it. One thought I did have was even with a bad battery shouldn't I have seen spark when I was jumping it? If it makes any difference I jumped it on the positive life for the starter and negative to the frame.
    #6
  7. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    +1 on the battery. If an 1150 sits unused for more than a few weeks, the parasitic drain from the RID + ECU will draw the battery down to a voltage insufficient to crank. A few weeks beyond that can kill even a new battery.

    If it's not the battery, however, then I agree the HES may be the cause. So, I'd have the battery load tested as my initial step. Charging it overnight with something better than a trickle charger is a good plan b, if load testing isn't handy.
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  8. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    So I tried to pick up a new battery on my way home but the closest cycle shop is closed on Mondays and none of the auto parts stores had one that cross referenced to mine so I'll try again tomorrow.

    I did however get a chance to check the coil for the bottom plugs, it seems ok, 7 k ohms on the secondary and 0.5 ohms on the primary. I also pulled the HES and did the LED test with a feeler gauge and battery per the Dana Hager write up and it also checked out ok. So I guess it's back to the battery.

    Speaking of which I did want to clarify one thing, my bike turns over ok using the battery I have just no spark, even when I tried to jump start it. But like I mentioned previously, the voltage dropped below 6 under load, when using just the bike's battery. Based on what I've read on these odyssey batteries I don't doubt that I've killed it since I had a starter go bad on it last year, I haven't modified the alternator for more output, and the highest output charger I own is a 2 amp. I did have the BMW OEM charger on it over the winter which I'm guessing was insufficient for this battery.

    Anything else I should be checking other than the battery?
    #8
  9. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    Your kill switch on? I doubt that's it because of your low crank output battery. Batteries Plus+ has your battery.
    #9
  10. Techref

    Techref Been here awhile

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    I had this similar problem before.
    My relay was dead. I paid a heavy price for this cheap thing at the agent.
    #10
  11. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

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    I would check the starter.
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  12. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    I know it's not switched to off because I can hear he fuel pump prime and the RID comes on when I turn it to run, is there another circuit for the coils I need to check?

    What relay was it and how did you find this?

    The starter on it is only a few months old and sounds like it is cranking much easier than the original, I'm not following how this could be the culprit could you please explain more and what I should look for?

    Keep it coming guys thanks for your help!
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  13. Techref

    Techref Been here awhile

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    The agent found out about it. They have some dianostic tool probably a high end GS911 kind of instrument. And that cost me a hefty price.
    That was 3 years back. I couldn't really remember which relay. But I'm quite sure it was either relay 3 or relay 4.
    If you're familiar with the schematics, perhaps you could check that out.
    I hope this helps
    #13
  14. RickyBilly

    RickyBilly Mentally Retired

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    Check the wiring harness from the key switch to the "computer" It runs on the left side of the frame. If you turn the handlebar to the right and it quits this may be the issue. Harness is not long enough and shorts on the frame. Had this issue myself quite common
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  15. BMWRich

    BMWRich Away from the Libtards....

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    The BMW "diagnostic tool" you speak of is amazing !!!
    I've seen it in action.
    Pretty much plugs into the bike and the tech can "manually" test or eliminate different areas/devices etc. of the bikes electrical.
    Purty 'Hi-Tec'......way smart and cool!!!
    They also use it in the auto/car end also.
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  16. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    Maybe try swapping the fuel pump's relay with the one for the horn? They're identical / substitutable units...

    Attached Files:

    #16
  17. gijetro

    gijetro Adventurer

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    Thanks for the tips guys, I wasn't able to get a battery yesterday but have another Odyssey on order at batteries plus that I'll hopefully be able to pick up tonight. I still need to get the HES put back in and we'll see what the new battery does, if that doesn't help I'll start taking a look at the relays and wiring harness. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!
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  18. Techref

    Techref Been here awhile

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    I doubt it's the harness. But anything is possible though.
    Good luck.
    Keep us posted.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #18
  19. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    Your regulator comment applies to Shunt Type regulators, 1150 oilheads do not use that style. Jumping correctly is ok to do.

    2003 and later have the upgraded Hall sensor plates - I doubt it would be the source of the problem.
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  20. UncleMark

    UncleMark Been here awhile

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    What about sidestand switch?
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