2005 KTM 640 Adventure

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by desmonc, Mar 22, 2005.

  1. Mulga

    Mulga Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    Toowoomba Aus
    Desmonic said
    I had the same thing happen to me. I recieved a new airbox under warranty. When I checked the new box before mounting, the moulding around the botton brass nut was worse than the one it was replacing. I left the origional box on.

    I fixed the problem by cutting away some of the plastic to remove the nut. Degresed the hole and Araldited the nut back in (making sure it was ligned up properly). It hasn't budged. And I also have a spare airbox to play with.:evil

    Regards

    Dan
  2. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Thanks Dan, I finished up getting it fixed under warranty, the replacement air box I got was spot-on and is still going strong. The chassis on my bike seems to have been bolted together by someone in a hurry to get back to the pub :1drink but the motor so far has been a 100%. :clap
    Chris
  3. Mulga

    Mulga Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    Toowoomba Aus
    No worries Chris,

    I have been haveing issues with mechanics as well. The dealer didn't even offer to install it for me. He said "here you go its not that hard a job".

    But worse the mechanics at Dodgy-Moto err I mean Dalby-Moto have caused me more pain than good. First 1000 kilometere service they over filled the oil, stuffed up the valve tappet clearences, and failed to replace two gaskets during the oil change properly which subsequently started weeping oil. Also during rejetting they destroyed the screw heads on the carby float bowl drain screw and the two screws that hold the bowl on. And to top it off they charged me $300 for the service and didn't do 1/2 the things listed in the invoice.

    Whew...Thats my mechanic rant for the week over:clap


    Regards

    Dan
  4. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    I recently (August-September 06) rode from <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on">Perth</st1:City> to Cape York across the middle of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Australia</st1:country-region>, <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">Great Central Road</st1:address></st1:Street>, Oodnadatta Track, Birdsville Track and <st1:place w:st="on">Cape York</st1:place> developmental road. 15,093 kms (about half in the dirt), 41 days and every kind of road surface, the altitude ranged from 0 to around 1000m.

    [​IMG]

    Fuel consumption varied from a worst of 13kpl on Opal to 20kpl, average was around 17kpl. The bike and all the mods took a real pounding with a few low speed off&#8217;s in the sand, the only problems were-
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    1. The horn came undone 2<SUP>nd</SUP> day in the dirt, I bolted it back with a nyloc nut and it stayed put. No other nuts or bolts came loose.
    <o:p></o:p>
    2. The mud flap I fitted got tangled up with the tyre and ripped off at the first deep (1m) water crossing.
    <o:p></o:p>
    3. The centre stand bolt holding the sidestand on broke and I had to get the sidestand welded to the frame in <st1:place w:st="on">Alice Springs</st1:place> also had it lengthened so the bike would not lean over so far. I also tightened the sidestand bolt so it would not snap back so viciously and it stays down until I push it back up.

    [​IMG]
    <o:p></o:p>
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    4. I started with new Michelin heavy duty tubes and new Bridgestone Trailwings 301(90/90/21)and 302(130/80/18), the rear was replaced in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Alice</st1:City></st1:place> after 3127kms with a Pirelli MT21(140/80/18) and the original alloy rear sprocket was replaced as well with a steel sprocket after 16,617kms.
    <o:p></o:p>
    5.Dented front rim, 20psi, hit a cattle grid on the Birdsville Track with a 10-15cm ditch in front of it at about 80-90kph or it could have been any of the many rocks etc, replaced with a special made for Oz hardened Behr rim (so I was told) under warranty when I got back (bike was 19 months old and 29,000kms).
    <o:p></o:p>
    6. Bike rolled off the centrestand in the dirt and broke the clutch lever, it broke right at the indents as designed and was still usable. I have now fitted Barkbusters.

    [​IMG]

    <o:p></o:p>
    7. Rear master cylinder seized, a master cylinder kit was fitted under warranty at the Cairns KTM dealer plus another new MT21 as well after 4098kms.
    <o:p></o:p>
    8. Accessory socket and clock stopped working, fuse kept blowing, possibly caused by moisture, it rained a lot, I had to wire my GPS directly to the battery, came good after I got back.
    Do not use the Accessory socket if it rains
    <o:p></o:p>
    9. New Dunlop Arrowmax 130/70 18 road tyre rear fitted in Pt. Augusta after 5490kms, all that was available, it lowered the gearing and speed dropped by 5kph in 5<SUP>th</SUP> at 5000rpm but it will pull to 8000rpm in top 172kph.
    Front <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Tyre</st1:place></st1:City> is still good after 15,870kms
    <o:p></o:p>
    10. Paint damage to front of tank.

    [​IMG]
    <o:p></o:p>
    11. The original chain has stretched to the limit (272mm &#8211; 18 rollers) and needs to be replaced, sprockets are worn but serviceable.
    <o:p></o:p>
    12.The plastic clamp holding the heated grips controller broke and I replaced it with a zip tie
    <o:p></o:p>
    13. Another discovery I made was that a spark plug gap of 30 thou instead of 35 thou works better over a wider range of fuels, altitudes, rpm&#8217;s.
    <o:p></o:p>
    14. Valve clearances loosened up by 1 thou on 3 valves and 2 thou on one inlet.
    <o:p></o:p>
    Emig Racing Steering Stabilizer has arrived and will be bolted on next week, still need a heavier rear shock spring.
    <o:p></o:p>
    BARKBUSTERS
    http://www.barkbusters.net/HandGuards.htm
    <o:p></o:p>
    These bolted straight on and look fairly well made, they should save any further lever breakages.
    The white spoiler has two positions or can be removed altogether.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    I also drilled a 2mm hole in the brake lever to make up for the dodgy indents.
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    This is a cut-down ring spanner to use on the locknuts when adjusting the valve clearances, the key here is to get one that has as close to a 90 degree bend as possible which allows it to move without bumping into anything.

    [​IMG]
  5. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    EPC Removal<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Thanks to Sylvia&#8217;s advice I removed the EPC.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3861636&postcount=123</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    According to the KTM manual, getting rid of the EPC should improve acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear as EPC "reduces the opening speed of the slide".
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    This is what gets removed.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    This is what stays, the 10mm cap comes from Clark Rubber for 60 cents, they have hard and soft caps, I bought one of each.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>

    New Chain and Sprockets.

    Thanks Meat for the guide,.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126049<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>

    The new chain DID 520 VM X ring$120<o:p></o:p>
    http://shop.eatmydirt.com.au/categories.asp?cID=29&c=195127
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    New sprockets, rear aftermarket cost $36, front OEM cost $36<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    The original chain lasted 2 years and 30,000kms about 10,000km in the dirt, it had worn to the recommended limit 272mm / 18 links.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    I pulled apart two links, the pin seems to be where all the wear occurs, one pin had some rust on it.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>New and Old pins compared</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    New and Old O rings.

    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    During this period I used 2 rear sprockets and one front sprocket.<o:p></o:p>
    The front sprocket after 30,000km. It had rubber pads on both sides.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>The other side</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    The first rear alloy sprocket lasted 17,000km.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    And the second steel (aftermarket) sprocket has done 13,000km it still looks okay.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    I am fairly certain a new chain and new steel sprockets should last me another 30,000km.<o:p></o:p>
    I also used 2 x cans of BelRay Superclean and some engine oil when I wasn&#8217;t carrying the BelRay.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    <o:p>[​IMG] </o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Chain Breaker / Riveter $60 and 19mm / 27 mm ring spanners

    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    A fair amount of force is required to push the pins through the chain, I could not find where it had been riveted originally which must mean the chain is delivered pre-riveted to KTM for fitting to the bikes during assembly.

    [​IMG]

    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    This is where you split the new chain, count 108 links, the joining link makes up the last two.

    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Rivets in the new chain, I took my time with the rivets, removing the tool and inspecting a couple of times to make sure I did not overtighten.

    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    I replaced the front sprocket washer but used the old nut, all bolts had DynaGrip Permanent thread Locker applied
    The new chain measured 270mm / 18 links.

    [​IMG]<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    I also cut an inspection slot into the front sprocket cover

    [​IMG]

    <o:p></o:p>
  6. Keith

    Keith Slabbing it

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2006
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    1,001
    Location:
    901
    Excellent information. Thank you very much.
  7. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    With all the help I have received from this forum, the least I can do is share my 2 cents worth:D
  8. mike cramb

    mike cramb Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,312
    Location:
    Perth
    Desmo ,

    I didnt know you were in Perth I could have borrowed those feeler guages today and yesterday. Cause Ive done my lash two days running cause I stuffed it up first time and they were a bit noisy.

    MIKE:D
  9. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    No worries, glad to help, the only way to do it using standard feeler guages is to leave the guage in place between the valve and rocker arm and tighten the locknut then remove it.
    Chris:D
  10. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Emig Racing Steering Stabilizer.

    http://www.emigracing.com/

    KIT # 2 18mm Offset (Top Clamp Only)
    • <LI class=MsoNormal style="COLOR: white; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in"><?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:p>Top Triple Clamp - Rubber Mounted or Solid Mounted <LI class=MsoNormal style="COLOR: white; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">Key Switch Holder<O:p> </O:p><LI class=MsoNormal style="COLOR: white; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">Bolt-On Stabilizer Post<O:p> </O:p><LI class=MsoNormal style="COLOR: white; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">Under-The-Bar Stabilizer Mounting (2.70&#8221; or optional 3.25")</O:p>
    • Available in Shiny &#8211; Orange &#8211; Black
    Complete Kit with Revolution I or II Steering Stabilizer -
    Kit Price $655($55 Discount)


    This is what I bought, it came to AUD $930 including shipping.
    The Customer Service and quality of the product is excellent, Paige Emig answered all my questions promptly and comprehensively 10/10.

    This is what came in the box:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Installation was fairly straightforward with only some filing required to get some of the bits to fit.

    Both the bearings had grease and showed no signs of wear.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had to drill out the rivets from the steering lock and bolt it to the Emig supplied part.
    Used a 4mm and then a 6mm drill bit

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had to smooth out the steering head to get the post to fit.

    [​IMG]

    About .5mm came off the inside of the steering lock

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Steering head pinch bolt just touched the post.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The top of the Steering locking bolt was too high and blocked, I only discovered this after putting it all back together and had to grind it back with limited access, hence the mess.

    [​IMG]

    You can see where the locking bolt goes here.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is how I mounted my eXplorist XL GPS to the bike, it can be detached in 10 sec and transferred to another vehicle or to my knapsack for security.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  11. overlandr

    overlandr Dystopist

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,021
    Location:
    Sydney
    Good report - nice photos!
  12. Surly

    Surly surly adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,135
    Location:
    Salem, OR
    I bought the whole kit and I am still a little miffed about this
    [​IMG]

    For $1000 usd I expected stuff to fit better
    On top of that my damper leaked out of the box and the anodizing on the damper are different color oranges or the finish makes it look that way
    Another thing is the instructions they post say to chop the top of the steering lock off which is overkill

    I will eventually weld a piece of channel or square tube in there so it all works properly

    Sure they were nice and maybe I am too picky but I have seen some other pretty cool options worth consideration
  13. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    I asked about that before buying and they said you only had to chop the top off if you retained the stock/oem top clamp because the pinch for the stabilizer post would have to be at the 12 o'clock position right where the lock is located.
    Which is one of the reasons I bought the top clamp kit.
    I was not expecting to have to grind back the lock but that could also be due to variations in KTM's manufacturing tolerances, if the lock bracket had been 3mm higher I would not have had to do anything.:D
  14. Surly

    Surly surly adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,135
    Location:
    Salem, OR
    I used their top clamp because I went to 20mm
    I guess I am a retard because the only difference I notice is it looks pretty :lol3
    Its nice stuff I just should have tested everything before following the destructions
  15. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    It does look pretty and you have matching top and bottom clamps, the orange would certainly stand out. I went for black (low key) to deter thieves when travelling. I also fitted security bolts to the stabilizer.
    The extra $300 plus not knowing what the 20mm offset would feel like put me off buying the whole kit.:eek1
  16. Surly

    Surly surly adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,135
    Location:
    Salem, OR
    A better rider than me might notice the change in offset. I am a bit point and shoot brute force angry sort of rider. Well maybe not that bad you get the idea

    I could use some of those bolts. I lost one of mine and replaced it with one stolen from my mountain bike. Are they torx head? Where did you get them?
    I cant even find allen heads up here and need to find a bolt depot of some sort.
  17. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    They are not torx, they are stainless steel and have an Allen head with a pin in the middle and the bit has to have a corresponding hole in it to fit. I got them from a friend, the company he works for buys nuts and bolt in bulk.

    http://www.tamper-pruf-screws.com/display_screws.php3


    [​IMG]
  18. desmonc

    desmonc Bike Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    283
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Separate Right Front Brake Hose
    I decided to install a separate brake hose to the right front disk so if the mudguard ever gets jammed up with mud I can remove it and strap it to the back of the bike until I get clear of the mud.
    I ordered the parts from Bolton's
    http://www.boltonmotorcycles.com/
    The parts are
    2 x 60008019000 - BRAKE HOSE GUIDE LOWER
    1 x 60013012000 - BRAKE HOSE FRONT ADV
    I made a clamp out of neoprene rubber to fix the brake hose to the front mudguard.
    The long "HOLLOW SCREW - M10X1X30" on the left caliper is swapped with the
    shorter one on the Master cylinder.
    The lower brake hose guides need to be trimmed.
    I also modified one guide and bolted it to the top triple clamp, there are existing 6mm threads on the underside, the stock triple clamps have these as well. I had to use some copper pipe as a spacer so the guide would clear the ignition lock and the bottom of the dash. The first hole I drilled in the guide pushed the guide out too far and the hose rubbed against the dash at full lock so I drilled another one that brought it back closer to the fork. I wrapped some tape around the bolt to centre it in the copper pipe.
    I cut out some of the guard to route the brake hose clear of the spokes and brake disk.

    View from the front
    [​IMG]

    The lower guides
    [​IMG]

    Cut down lower guide
    [​IMG]

    View from the top
    [​IMG]

    Modified upper guide with spacer
    [​IMG]

    Modified upper guide with spacer
    [​IMG]

    This is where it bolts into the triple clamp
    [​IMG]

    Front view of the upper guide
    [​IMG]

    Upper guide showing clearance between hose and the dash
    [​IMG]

    Neoprene rubber clamp to the mudguard
    [​IMG]

    I added some plastic P clamps as re-inforcement later
    [​IMG]

    Modified Upper Left Brake Hose Wire Guide
    THe left brake hose had some wear showing, I had always assumed that this was caused by it rubbing on the wire guide until I started fiddling around with the right brake hose guide. It was then that I realised that the wear was being caused by the hose rubbing on the lower edge of the dash. This is because the wire guide is too long and passes under the dash thus allowing the hoses to rub against it.
    I fixed it by cutting some grooves and zip-tieing a rubber block to the end of the wire guide, problem solved, the hoses are now held away from the dash.

    Shows wear on the brake hose
    [​IMG]

    Shows the guide passing under the dash and the hose rubbing against the bottom edge - Poor design
    [​IMG]

    Rubber block
    [​IMG]

    Rubber block zip-tied to the wire guide
    [​IMG]

    And now the hose is held away from the dash, problem solved.
    [​IMG]

    Speedbleeders
    Fitted speedbleeders to all three calipers, they work, just don't drain all the fluid from the system when fitting them, it takes ages to get the air out.
    Swap the bleed screws as quickly as possible and then flush the system through the speed bleeders, a lot quicker and the speed bleeders make it very easy.
    http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/
    Part No. - SB1010S Speed Bleeder - This fits all three calipers.
    I also bought the hose, it is made of silicone is very elastic and seals really well around the nipple.
    SPEEDBLEEDERHOSE - Bleeder Hose

    The one on the left is the speedbleeder, it has a 7/16" nut instead of 11mm
    [​IMG]

    136 dB Stebel Magnum Horn
    I fitted one of these horns, it is loud but sounds more like a Goose than a horn.
    There was a bit of mucking around to squeeze it behind the fairing, it will only fit at the angle shown in the pic's.

    Horn from the side
    [​IMG]

    From the front, shows 2 nuts used as spacers
    [​IMG]


    Thread Inserts for Front mudguard bolts
    I managed to strip the threads in one of the holes used by the four bolts that hold the front mudguard in place (something I haven't done in a long time). There are only 3 threads on these bolts so it is no surprise. If these bolts were 5 mm longer and there is enough space there, this would make them a lot more secure.
    I decided to fit Stainless Steel Thread Inserts to all four holes, just in case. I used M6x1.5d inserts made by Recoil.
    http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_systems/commercial/en/product_category.asp?cat_id=685
    I drilled the holes using a drill chuck only and turned it by hand, very soft metal.
    With the inserts in place it feels rock solid now.

    Drill chuck turned by hand
    [​IMG]

    The Tap
    [​IMG]


    This is an interesting diagram from the Recoil catalogue.
    [​IMG]
  19. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,700
    Location:
    Burbank CA
    Excellent thread!:clap
  20. Fangulo

    Fangulo Riding Director

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6
    [​IMG]

    I had installed exactly the same stuff... but didn't mess with filing or chopping anything... just installed 3 mm grommets in here to lower the lock...[​IMG]