2010 990 ADV TB Sync

Discussion in 'KTM 950/990' started by atk_nut, Jul 23, 2014.

  1. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    Anybody do it? I've found a procedure for a super-duke after some browsing.

    Can anybody point me in the right direction?

    Is it really required?

    Thanks.
    #1
  2. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    If the TB's are not balanced, the engine is pulling harder on one cylinder, idling on the other, more vibes, less power.

    You need vacuum lines extended from the engine intake ports back to under the seat where you can reach them with the tanks on.

    Then you need an electronic balancer, like the TwinMax.

    Hook it up, warm it up, if one pulls more vacuum, then pull the air filter, turn the balance screw on the throttle bar connecting both throttles. It's near the rear throttle body. When they have equal vacuum, yer done.
    #2
  3. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    Is it not the same way as the 950??

    Just a piece of clear tubing and hook up to intakes (not sure if the 990 has the hoses in place like the 950 to work the SAS, below TB, have removed the SAS stuff from the 990 but cant remember).

    If one side rises adjust, be ready to kill enging if way of like on the bike my dad bought it was close it sucked oil directly into the intake, some more colorful oil might be used but just had engine oil and has worked great:

    <IFRAME height=315 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qUMKwbcSOlE" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

    /Johan
    #3
  4. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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  5. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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  6. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    Well, it's a lot smoother, both at idle and high up.

    BUT

    It's doing this "chuff" thing (slight backfire through the intake) at idle. It actually stalled 3-4 times this morning when cold, when it "chuffed".

    Any ideas? TPS maybe?

    I'm still trying to source a cable for tuneecu, so that's out, for now.
    #6
  7. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    OK, I tried the 15min idle thing, didn't seem to help.

    It stalled 5 times in the first minute, so does that mean I need to go 15min after the last stall?

    I've checked all the vacuum lines etc, but still can't find anything wrong. The only change is the TB sync....

    Anyone? Anyone?
    #7
  8. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    How was bike running before the sync? Were you having stalling issues? Make sure your throttle cable is adjusted correctly.
    #8
  9. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    Yup, it was running fine, just a little rough (hence the want for a TB sync).
    It was stalling the odd time when it was cold, but only once, not 4 in a row. It never would "chuff" when warm.

    I need the tuneEcu for adjusting the throttle, correct? to back off the idle servo?
    #9
  10. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    Ok, doing a bit more digging, it seems you need to reset the ecu for the 15min idle thing to work. Looking at how everything is set up here's what I see:

    - The TPS is on the front cylinder
    - There looks like a tps on the rear, but it's not, it's a position sensor for the butterfly.
    - Adjusting the sync screw changes the rear cylinder compared to the front. (It's the rear that's "chuffing" by the way)

    So here's my theory, since there is only one tps, and the rear has been "tweeked" I think the mapping is slightly off on the rear (The bike was dyno tuned before I got it, so maybe it was tuned out of balance?) I'm not sure what the 15min idle changes.....any experts?

    I really need to get my tuneEcu going.....

    Maybe I'll just put it back where it was for now....
    #10
  11. StevenD

    StevenD Hmmmm, dirt!

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    Spot on. And also why ktm say not to do it. Maps front and rear are different with a slight off balance from New for whatever reason.
    #11
  12. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    'Generally' you don't need to adjust the sync unless you make drastic changes, removed the airbox, new 2-1 exhaust, etc.

    I've seen the sync way off on stock bikes. Went through the valves, airfilter, TPS, plugs, new oil and bingo! Sync was back to perfect.
    #12
  13. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    Yes to all the above, the bike recently had exhaust, rotweiller intake etc.

    That's kind of why I went there.....

    Maybe I'll put it back until I get tuneEcu running....

    I'm hoping there's a way in there to adjust the rear?

    Edit: I should clarify that....just at idle i mean, it seems to run way nicer balanced at speed....

    So front/rear maps are different?
    #13
  14. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    Yes the rear cylinder has more fuel to it.
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  15. JoeMongo

    JoeMongo ¿Por dónde? Supporter

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    So, I don't know what has been done so far, with respect to balancing the throttle bodies, but if you have a Rottweiler installed, balancing is easy even with both tanks installed. Just remove the seat, install your differential pressure instrument of choice, zero it out, start the motor and observe. Then reach down in there to the throttle balance adjustment screw with a long Phillips screwdriver in your left hand, reach your right hand underneath the adjustment screw to keep the screwdriver from opening the throttles when turning the screw, and voila! Adjustment complete. Should take less than 60 seconds, once you have warmed up the motor. Do not do this on a cold motor or one with valves out of spec.

    There really isn't anything else to touch/do/disassemble, assuming that you have previously run lines from the spare TB vacuum ports back to a convenient point under the seat.

    IMHO, The best place to adjust is at/near idle, but make sure that the balance holds just off idle and above. If it doesn't that could mean a mechanical issue with the TB butterflies, or something else.
    #15
  16. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    That's basically what I've done. However, I found that once I had perfect balance, the bike would do this weird little chuff/backfire thing out of the rear lung.

    What I ended up doing today was balance it at 0, then "road tune" slightly back from that until the "chuffing" went away. (Nice and easy with the rotweiller) It ended up somewhere between where it was and perfect balance, about half a turn on the screw.

    The bottom line? It purrs real nice now.

    What I think is happening is that the rear map goes out slightly at idle because more air is getting in relative to the fuel (because the TPS is on the front cylinder)
    #16
  17. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    So now if you hook your balancing tool back up you can take note of where you need it to balance out and run well for your bike and set up. Maybe mark it on your tool for later reference and tuning.
    #17
  18. keener

    keener Speed changes you.

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    Zuber, any particular reason you don't use the input from bike's MAP sensors in TuneECU to sync ?



    Old thread , but I thought I ask here instead of making a new one.
    #18
  19. Salzig

    Salzig Long timer

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    The polling time of TuneEcu is really slow.
    It can somehow work (I did it) but you need to do small adjustments and watch carefully the results.
    Yet you won't get the accurate results of a proper tool.
    Now that I think of it, the Android app KTM Ecu Sensors can get a faster polling when scanning for only two sensors, and it also can record the data.
    #19
  20. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma Supporter

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    My opinion, your are relying on sensors which may or may not be accurate. Hook up to gauges.
    #20