2011 Ninja 1000 Streetfighter Conversion - Help Preferred :D

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Biddles, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    Well I'm still healing from the crash, but in the last two weeks I've been able to really think about this bike and what I want to do with it. Originally I wanted to bring it back to it's nice and shiny factory look...

    zkawasaki-ninja-1000-10.jpg


    But after waiting a month for a replacement coolant reservoir from partzilla, and finally getting it running I had to make the hard decision to convert it into a "Streetfighter". The reason for the conversion is because simply things on the front end just don't line up, here's a pic of the coolant reservoir which I had to expand the mounting holes on, and even push it a bit to get it to sit properly for a test ride.

    IMG_20181116_123710.jpg


    This was the first purchase because I needed to see if this bike was still road worthy. The deer smashed my front end pretty good. With the reservoir mounted, and fairings removed my brother took her for a spin. Oh yea I didn't mention the right rearset was snapped.

    IMG_20181113_102756.jpg


    He drove her for a good 10 minutes, went through all the gears, and had her up to 60 with one foot dragging haha. I'm glad I have a few brothers to help me out.


    Since the bike checked out ok mechanically I gave myself the green light to order the necessary parts. The entire headlight assembly was the most expensive. Used, aftermarket, oem, really nothing here was cheap. The problem is the steel brackets and piping that hold the complex front end of the Ninja 1000 together were bent back about 3/4"- 1". I'm not that good with a hammer, and the hundreds of dollars Partzilla wanted was too much for me to merit.


    So here she is after the crash.
    IMG_20181113_102703.jpg
    #1
  2. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    And here she is after with all the fairings removed as well as front headlight bracket.

    11.jpg


    I basically want to remove any extra weight on the bike, rear pegs, grab handles, fairing brackets, side bag mounts, etc... That means the girlfriend won't be taking any rides anytime soon.

    I also want to lower the bike about 1", delete the "breadbox" from the exhaust, get some Pro Taper handlebars, CRG mirrors, and possibly Rizoma turn signal bar ends. Honestly a lot of my mods are Harley Davidson inspired. I want it loud and badass, fast(it already was), and fun. Here are a few pics of my plans.

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    I plan on keeping the upper cat and hopefully she wont be too loud, if she is I'll add some DB Killers. My brother welds so he should be able to help me get that piping done in the next couple weeks.

    The headlights I want to go with are these... Its unfortunate they don't come with buckets because that seems to be the hard part, finding aftermarket buckets for cheap that don't suck. These are a direct plug and play replacement for Harleys newer models. I've been thinking about it, and perhaps if I had better headlights I would have seen that deer and been able to avoid it. I didn't realize how shitty my Kawasaki lights were.

    [​IMG]
    #2
  3. redneckK20

    redneckK20 Been here awhile

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    Those V+H slash cuts will get ridiculously loud if you ditch the breadbox. A friend with a ZX10R has the same setup, did the same thing and doubled the volume of the bike, made it obnoxious. Needs some type of baffling unless you want your ears to bleed.
    #3
    Biddles likes this.
  4. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    Inmate @Kai Ju has a nice thread on his cbr1000 conversion
    #4
    greasyfatman likes this.
  5. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Might just be the photo but that front end looks awfully steep in the first photo, bike just looks squeezed. Sure it hasn’t had any damage to the head stock?
    #5
    1 wheel peel likes this.
  6. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    It could, I sure hope not. My brother rode it and said it felt fine. The bars are turned all the way to the right, maybe if they were centered it would look better. Hopefully that's it, I have all day tomorrow to play with it. New triple tree top came in today from a Z1000 with risers. Hopefully I can get that on tomorrow and remove the ignition security bolts as I plan to relocate that. I'm looking for a certain style coolant reservoir, when I find it I'll relocate that as well.
    #6
  7. jake28

    jake28 Riding to the horizon.

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    I've done couple of these.

    1. Check the front end. On a steel framed bike, usually a front end hit will bend the frame. On a bike with a large section aluminum frame like your's, you'll usually bend or break the forks.

    Put a straight edge along the wheels front to back and see if you've got a tweak. Also, hop up and down not he front end and check for stiction in the forks that would indicate a bent fork.

    You've already done the ride test.

    2. Brake lines and cables. Motion Pro will do custom / longer brake lines which you may need for the riser bars.

    3. Coolant. Stainless steel bottles like clean canteen, readily available from amazon, make great reservoirs. You just tap them for hoses and you're good to go. I've also seen people use larger steel hip flasks if that is more your style.

    4. Exhaust. Your bike, your life, but no baffling is no good, even at a race track.
    #7
  8. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    I've had lot's of luck sourcing OEM parts on E-Bay.
    You have all winter to source parts.
    More parts will be listed now that riding season is winding down.
    Complete, new, painted body work can be had for cheap on E-Bay.
    It will sell quicker if it still looks stock so you can buy your loud, bad ass Hardly.
    #8
  9. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    I appreciate the advice! I never knew Motion Pro made cables, but I'll stick with Venhill. I've used them in the past, and I found them to be excellent. It seems like a lot of people don't know about them, and it's very easy to select your bike, then add inches of cable on top of that selection, and you can't beat the price.

    Although I do have all winter, I feel like I'm in a rush. Even with cold NY winters I still ride here and there. Today I installed the eBay rearsets I bought. I found the quality to be excellent, and very strong. The biggest problem is the limited room in the garage. Not my garage!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I can't lie it was very hard to work in there with my injuries still healing. What a fucking mess, again not my stuff.

    Oh yea and I ran into this issue... I replaced the Ninja 1000 triple tree top with the Z1000, and the fork tubes stick out about 2 1/4". The Ninja uses clipons above the yoke so you don't really notice the tubes sitting so high, but the Z1000 must have shorter fork tubes or something. I ordered some risers which I might end up returning depending on a few things. For one I feel that the added leverage of being that low on the fork tubes could increase the chances of the risers breaking, and the risers I ordered only allow a 7/8" diameter handlebar when I knew I really wanted 1 1/8" pro taper bars. Take a look.

    [​IMG]


    I have given some strong consideration to creating my own risers. I drew a basic mock up of a potential riser for the bike. I also found a guy on ebay who sells aluminum blanks in the perfect size for $30. I would have to thread the bottom of it of course, and shape it a bit in order to get it to look decent. The Rox pivoting risers probably won't fit in the OEM risers due to the forks being so close otherwise that would be a good option. Let me know what you guys think, and this drawing might not be understandable, the center dot in the square is where I would use a centerpunch for the 1 1/8" drill bit. The other markings are bolt lines/shape lines etc...

    [​IMG]



    Oh yea, IMS motorycle show tomorrow! I will be there! Looking forward to it a lot.
    #9
  10. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Can't the rox be put on the inside of the z1000 bar clamps?
    #10
  11. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    LOL why didn't I think of that?

    I swear sometimes my mind moves too quick, and overlooks whats right in front of me. I guess I'll try that option. I still wander how it's going to hold up. Oh yea IMS was decent this year, not as good as the first time I went back in 2015, but still worth the trip. It was the first time since the accident that I've thrown a leg over a bike.

    I finally got to check out the Royal Enfield Himalayan, and I want it even more now. The Suzuki Katana looked awesome to me . Some people hate it, some people liked it...

    Here are a few pics from the show including a ridiculous Confederate Motorcycle bike with a single suspension up front, never saw anything like this before. $125,000 though...

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    Some vintage bikes, thought this exhaust was sooo cool.

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    And the Confederate...

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    #11
  12. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    So this is a test fitment with the new risers, and as you can see I had to go inside instead of outside the oem risers to mount them otherwise they'd hit the forks. This sucks for a few reasons. "Wider is better". Remember those commercials? Well the bar mounting is pretty narrow now, and I'm sitting about 2 1/2" down into the triple tree. This is fine for the stock bike as clip ons sit higher and increase ease of turning leverage. I can't help but wonder how my steering is going to be affected, this also could perhaps be a bit of overthinking on my part and it might just be fine... It also gives me a bit less center bar space for mounting options although I only really planed to put the cluster there. I took a handlebar off my mountain bike just to get an idea, and this bar is 1 1/4" so it doesn't sit perfectly and it's just held in place with the hex bolts. This bar is 28" wide so it's 3.5" short width wise compared to the Pro Tapers.

    Let me know what you guys think. I'm still on the fence about it, but it actually looks a lot better than I thought it would.

    Before
    [​IMG]


    After

    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    This may sound strange.


    Can you just run the oem top triple, then run the new triple right on top of that one in place of the clip ons to give you your bar mounts?

    Maybe mill off the steering head tube of the new triple so it’s just a bar mount.
    #13
  14. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    Well I have thought about putting a spacer in the center of the steering head, and finding a longer steering stem head bolt, but I'm not sure where the hell I'd find something like that, it would have to be a perfect fit. At absolute maximum I could get it higher 7/8" which is significant. My spacer would need to be 1 1/4" to fit the stem. Not sure where I could find that.I know the OEM steering stem cap gets torqued down to 108ft lbs and really holds everything together, running the oem top underneath wouldn't help me here. But I'm going to home depot, and it's worth a shot to see what they got. I'm sure someone somewhere makes hardware in this size that I could make use of, I just don't don't think Home Depot would have it.
    #14
  15. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    Not much progress just a whole lot of test fitting, bars on/off/on/off/on/off all so I can settle on handle bar bend and figure out a few issues. I had Murphs Risers on my Ninja so the bars were pretty high and close which made it very easy to ride. Now the bars are a little lower, and a bit further away, but not bad by any means at all. I had called Cycle Gear asking if they had the bars I wanted in stock, they said they did, but when I get there and they only have one bar... So I bought it, tested it and returned it. I had them order the ones I wanted so I have to wait 2-3 days for those to come in. Overall the steering and everything felt great in the garage. I don't think I'll have any issues with that, just have to make sure everything is torqued down tight.

    A few minor issues... the aftermarket risers that sit in the oem risers block the hex bolt that clamps them down. In order to tighten it I'll have to take a hacksaw to one of my allen keys, and cut it down to size just so I can get in there and tighten it. No big deal. The other issue is on the stock risers there are two pins that get clamped down to hold the Z1000 bracket(I think). I cannot get them to go in the correct way as they would hit the forks. I'll put them in the opposite way and again use a hacksaw to trim them down to size. I'll then thread the cut end and put a simple nut on it so it doesn't disappear. It sucks because I was hoping to make use of the Z1000 bracket which goes there, but none of the hardware from Home Depot, or the Hardware store fit snug like the special factory ones. I believe it's a 9mm rod, which tapers off to a 8mm thread on the end. I'm still trying to find a bolt like this, but so far I haven't been able to. If not it's getting the hacksaw treatment.

    I will say I am happy with the look, and when I get the cluster, headlight, and mini windscreen mounted you won't even see it. The only thing I don't like is the Pro Taper logo, it is not a simple removable sticker like I thought.

    [​IMG]
    #15
  16. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    I haven't made much progress, I actually had the flu all last week/weekend and I just couldn't wrap my head around getting anything done. Today though I finally got some stuff done, mostly test fitting and trial/error stuff. With so many changes to the front end of the bike and constantly taking things off and putting them on you can't really torque anything down permanently. I thought I had the handle bars perfect, even used some loctite, only to run into another issue afterwards having to remove everything. I almost just said "fuck it" and seriously considered going back to stock at that point. The risers I have don't leave any room to tighten them down, so I cut an allen key perfectly to fit in there to get the best angle out of my handlebars. In the end they were too high, and just not comfortable. The fix was turning the oem risers around backwards, and now the bars are right where I want them.

    I already planned on new brake lines so it wasn't a surprise when the oem ones didn't fit. Venhill is an excellent company. I love how you can select your bike, and then simply add inches on to your lines, and change the colors of the lines and hardware for no extra cost. On top of that they're still cheaper than the competition so it's kinda shocking not to see them on websites like Revzilla etc... I've used them in the past on two other bikes so this is three times a charm for me. I had to call them as their diagram on the website threw me off, our bike has one line from the master cylinder that goes to a T splitter on the bottom of the triple tree which branches out one line to each caliper. Their website showed "default" as two lines from the master cylinder to each caliper. I didn't want this as it's too much clutter up front. I called them up, and they could have done a T Splitter for me but it would cost a little extra and take a few days longer. I've grown impatient, instead they offer a crossover option which basically double stacks the banjo connections on top of each other at one caliper, so one line to the right caliper, and from the right caliper another line to the left caliper. It should look much cleaner like that. Front and back complete set was $132 shipped, and that was with adding extra inches and color options. Great company to deal with and I highly recommend them for anyone wanting quality brake lines. On top of that they answer the phone quick and actually know what they're talking about.

    I also went ahead and ordered a complete set of Vesrah brake pads. Originally I was going to order from KurveyGirl, but I wasn't seeing the rear sets for our bike. Eventually I stumbled upon BDRacing.com and the owner Mitch answered my questions at around 10pm on a Sunday pretty much instantly. They were out of stock at the moment, but he said he'd let me know when they came in. He let me know once they were back in stock, so not only did he have the best service he also had the best price on a complete front and back set of Vesrah pads. $133 shipped. I priced out the Galfer pads to be around $160, and EBC was around $120 I think. I never had Vesrah pads before, hope they were a good choice.


    Now here's my new coolant reservoir. I'll be honest it's bigger then I thought it would be, but it's basically a paint match, so once I black out the clamps I think it will look good. This was just a test fit!
    [​IMG]


    Here you can see how the bars fit and why I wasn't happy. Too high and too far away, but that was the best position I could get it in with the cut allen key, and all before turning the oem z1000 risers around. You can also see how well the reservoir blends into the gas tank.
    [​IMG]

    This is what the OEM cluster bracket looks like after you break it off to make your own. I just did a quick trace and added an extension to mount it, but it failed. I'm really anal sometimes when angles and things don't line up. In this case the RPM gauge in the cluster is round, and the rest of it is rectangle, and I just didn't like it centered like that so I wasted a bunch of time making a really nice bracket only to scrap it. In the end I needed an offset bracket so the round part of the cluster sat center with my risers and the square angles line up perfectly. A little OCD on my part, but I think it looks sooo much better like this. I got this 1 1/8" handlebar bracket for $8 shipped off ebay, originally a Harley foot peg bracket so it's strong as hell. This was the process, last pic isn't actually mounted I'm holding it in place but you get the idea. I am going for a clean-ish look!

    [​IMG]
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    The bracket came out so good you can't even see it with the cluster gauge mounted. Before today I've never really worked with metal but it was fun.



    Oh and while I was working on the bike these awesome fork clamps came in. $13 shipped what a steal! Look how clean these sit on top of the triple tree! Could you get any better then that? I still can't believe how nice these are for the money. I will probably mount the headlight and turn signals off of these. I might order a second set and make brackets for a windscreen. We'll see. You can also see how the z1000 risers are reversed here.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I originally wanted a 7" headlight like the newer Harley's, but ended up buying a 5 3/4" headlight. I can look at specs and dimensions all day, but I need to get something in front of me to work with and figure out. This headlight I ordered had great reviews so I'm hoping it's as great as everyone says it is. I also wanted fog lights, but couldn't figure out how to wire them up so I wouldn't need a switch/relay of some sort. I also picked up some Oxford heated grips at cycle gear. They had a $20 off coupon recently, and couldn't resist. At $75 they're only $20 more then Symtec's heat demons mess. The previous owner of my bike said he paid someone to install the Symtec heated grips, but after seeing the wiring and everything I have a hard time believing a shop would be that sloppy. I hate electrical tape. I hate it even more when you have to take it off after it's been sitting for a few years. I've had Symtec's in the past, and for the price of the Oxfords they're just not worth the headache of tapping into wires, and whatnot. The Oxford set also automatically turns off so it won't drain the battery, and comes with a simple bracket that I believe mounts on the clutch lever. Really easy plug and play stuff that simplifies the job.

    I have a lot more planned for this bike. Once I get the new brakes, headlights, and turn signals situated, I should be ready for the road, and then I can bring it to my brothers so he can play with the exhaust. I have a new idea in my head. Not sure if it's doable without twisting my brothers arm but stay tuned!
    #16
    invisa-bill likes this.
  17. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    So it's raining hard today, and I have a few little things I wanted to do but can't. I hate working in that tiny garage, I like just rolling the bike out to the driveway it makes everything easier. Unless it clears up I don't think I'll make any progress. The good news is my brake lines are coming today as well as the brake pads so this weekend I should have that completely squared away. A few packages arrived yesterday, and I have some parts laying around so I figured I'd take a pic and post it. Here's some stuff in the works.

    Lowering link, headlight, turn signals, bar end mirrors, freeeway blaster horn, fork clamps(you've seen), heated grips, electrical wiring, crimps, heat shrink, fireproof braided wiring loom, zip ties, clutch cover gasket, and header gaskets for when I get to them. The only thing I left out in this pic were OES frame sliders. A year or so ago I bought the Z1000 frame slider kit from OES Accessories by mistake thinking it was for the ZX1000. The fork sliders and rear spools were fine, but obviously the frame sliders were not. Now without plastics on my bike I think it's good I kept these and they should bolt up fine.
    [​IMG]


    Oh and I left this picture out from the other day. Ignition relocation. This ignition barrel was a pain in the ass. Its deceptively big. It seems small like you'd be able to fit it anywhere, but it's wider and longer then you'd think. I fiddled around with this thing for a few hours trying to get it to fit in multiple locations with no luck. I didn't want to take the grinder to it and, I've never played with a motorcycle ignition barrel before so didn't want to risk breaking it. I also like the OEM Kawasaki key's so I didn't want to replace it with an aftermarket one as then I wouldn't be able to open the rear seat... After over two hours of really trying to relocate it this was where I left it. I know kinda risky, and in a hot location but I have fireproof braided wire loom to protect it. As of now the bike started, and ran great. I had to use three ratchet extensions to tighten it down from behind the headers, I wish I took a picture of that lol. For now it stays there as it works, and it's out of my way. Also the frame slider will help hide it when I get them installed. I'm just not sure how it will handle extended heat exposure. It's bolted to the stator cover, but that specific hole is originally a fairing bolt hole, and it doesn't touch the engine, or coolant line.

    [​IMG]
    #17
  18. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Been here awhile

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    Quick note on the exhaust ... The Akropovic headers are fantastic, both in HP gains, less weight and sound ... with proper mufflers. Might want to consider the Akro headers vs. cutting out the cats, but it will be loud unless you add some mufflers.
    #18
  19. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    So with the holidays, physical therapy, and the weather I just haven't been doing too much with the bike. I had to make some custom brackets as the fork clamp brackets didn't extend far enough to fit the headlight bucket, and I really wanted the turn signals to look right too. The brackets came out perfect, and traced the turn signals onto metal to get the perfect shape. You can't see them, but they are pretty. Now as you can see the turn signals are mounted directly to the headlight bucket. Everything is solid, but I still have wire it up. I'm really happy with the way it came out. I painted all the brackets and hardware black so it blends in, but some other stuff on the bike I just simply don't have black hardware for and neither does the hardware store. :sad:

    [​IMG]

    Brake lines are on, not 100% sure about the crossover line as I don't have a front tire fairing so it's just floating in the air... I might order a longer one to run up the forks across the bottom of the triple tree and down the other fork to clean up the look. It's not really a hazard, as I've seen other bikes like that, but I don't like it.

    Oh yea... Oxford heated grips. I can't believe what a pain in the ass it was to install these on the pro taper bars, in fact I'm not so happy with the pro taper bars after all the hassle. For one there simply isn't enough room to mount all the controls, which is odd considering how fucking wide these bars are. The standard is 180mm which is 7" for the grips, levers, and switches. It's just half an inch shy of the Ninja's set up. With the heated grips snug at the end of the bar, the clutch/brake mounts sit right where the protaper bars start to bend which puts them at a slight angle. Absolutely ridiculous! They only make two bars with more room for controls, but the height and rise isn't enough... If I could go back in time I'd probably buy Renthal bars the Street Naked bend. More control area, and more bend angle on the control area. The only reason I didn't like the Renthals were because of the small area for risers.

    Back to the heated grips, they were a major pain in the ass to get on the clutch side. The bar is knarled and slightly larger then 7/8 and the Oxford Street grips were incredibly hard to get on even with a heat gun. My hands were sore for two days afterwards from twisting as hard as I can to get it go on. Maybe they make a dirt bike set of grips that are meant for this, I have no idea it just wasn't fun. Normal grips would have been easy, but I ride in the winter and need the heat.

    More little issues. In fact this bike should be named "Little Issues" because that's all I've had since modding it. The cluster centered looks great, but the brake reservoir sits out too far and was in the way. I had to remove that bracket, shorten it, then realized the reservoir fitting inside the tube is a lot longer then I thought it would be. I had to cut down the plastic fitting, heat gun the end and stuck a phillips head screwdriver into it to create the flare at the end so the tube clamp has something to grab. Pain in the ass, but at least it didn't cost me anything. Cut the tube down to size, fitted it up and it's fine!

    Tomorrow I'll try and finish up the wiring, mount the new horn, and maybe finish the coolant reservoir. I also have to get the bar end mirrors and lowering link on. I've held off on that until I could find some rubber or heatshrink to hide the clamps. I am now contemplating a windscreen. It would be cool to reuse the tinted Puig from my crash. The bottom half broke so I can't use the mount holes, but I'd have to fabricate another bracket or something to pull it off. I'm not looking for a lot of wind protection, but it would be cool to have a little, plus it helps hide wires and things. So she's getting there slowly. I'm sure there's a few other issues I forgot about, but I'm seriously hoping to ride her in the next week or two. Once she's road worthy I can take her to my brothers so he can fabricate an exhaust for me and then I can remove the rear passenger pegs and stuff.
    #19
  20. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    I did an extremely short test ride down the block and back up. So many changes, and the bike feels sooo different I didn't feel comfortable going any further. It didn't help that it was around 19 degree's outside. First problem I noticed when I stopped was the bike wouldn't go into neutral. I adjusted clutch cable, shifter linkage rod, and tried walking a bit and clicking up. No dice. It's really weird because the bike will go into neutral when it's off without an issue. But when it's running it won't budge. Gonna go over all those adjustments, but I fail to see the problem at the moment.

    The other thing that scared me was how wide these handlebars are. In the garage test fitting and everything is one thing, but out on the road it's a very different feel. Doing the U-Turn at the end of the block felt real iffy. Coming off the broken ankle and collar bone so a lot of things still feel iffy, but these bars seem too damn wide. There's not much of a backwards bend where the hand controls are so when you reach full rotation the outside hand is over reaching. Tires definitely need air too.

    The gauge cluster isn't fully secured yet as I need a new nut/washer underneath it, but you can see how wide the bars are here. The coolant reservoir has a bandana around it until I can find some type of sleeve/hosing to go around the clamps to prevent scratching. To the left if you look hard enough you can see the "Freeway Blaster" horn mounted perfectly to a fairing bolt hole. I can't believe how much louder this horn is over the stock crap, and for $12 its a no brainer. It also helps hide some wiring, but I still other wires to tidy up.
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    I think it will look much better when the radiator guard comes in, I've been waiting over a month for it. Seriously considering making measurements for Renthal bars too.
    #20
    oic likes this.