2011 Ninja 1000 Streetfighter Conversion - Help Preferred :D

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Biddles, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2014
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    Well I'm still healing from the crash, but in the last two weeks I've been able to really think about this bike and what I want to do with it. Originally I wanted to bring it back to it's nice and shiny factory look...

    zkawasaki-ninja-1000-10.jpg


    But after waiting a month for a replacement coolant reservoir from partzilla, and finally getting it running I had to make the hard decision to convert it into a "Streetfighter". The reason for the conversion is because simply things on the front end just don't line up, here's a pic of the coolant reservoir which I had to expand the mounting holes on, and even push it a bit to get it to sit properly for a test ride.

    IMG_20181116_123710.jpg


    This was the first purchase because I needed to see if this bike was still road worthy. The deer smashed my front end pretty good. With the reservoir mounted, and fairings removed my brother took her for a spin. Oh yea I didn't mention the right rearset was snapped.

    IMG_20181113_102756.jpg


    He drove her for a good 10 minutes, went through all the gears, and had her up to 60 with one foot dragging haha. I'm glad I have a few brothers to help me out.


    Since the bike checked out ok mechanically I gave myself the green light to order the necessary parts. The entire headlight assembly was the most expensive. Used, aftermarket, oem, really nothing here was cheap. The problem is the steel brackets and piping that hold the complex front end of the Ninja 1000 together were bent back about 3/4"- 1". I'm not that good with a hammer, and the hundreds of dollars Partzilla wanted was too much for me to merit.


    So here she is after the crash.
    IMG_20181113_102703.jpg
    #1
  2. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    And here she is after with all the fairings removed as well as front headlight bracket.

    11.jpg


    I basically want to remove any extra weight on the bike, rear pegs, grab handles, fairing brackets, side bag mounts, etc... That means the girlfriend won't be taking any rides anytime soon.

    I also want to lower the bike about 1", delete the "breadbox" from the exhaust, get some Pro Taper handlebars, CRG mirrors, and possibly Rizoma turn signal bar ends. Honestly a lot of my mods are Harley Davidson inspired. I want it loud and badass, fast(it already was), and fun. Here are a few pics of my plans.

    0.jpg
    01.jpg

    I plan on keeping the upper cat and hopefully she wont be too loud, if she is I'll add some DB Killers. My brother welds so he should be able to help me get that piping done in the next couple weeks.

    The headlights I want to go with are these... Its unfortunate they don't come with buckets because that seems to be the hard part, finding aftermarket buckets for cheap that don't suck. These are a direct plug and play replacement for Harleys newer models. I've been thinking about it, and perhaps if I had better headlights I would have seen that deer and been able to avoid it. I didn't realize how shitty my Kawasaki lights were.

    [​IMG]
    #2
  3. redneckK20

    redneckK20 Been here awhile

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    Those V+H slash cuts will get ridiculously loud if you ditch the breadbox. A friend with a ZX10R has the same setup, did the same thing and doubled the volume of the bike, made it obnoxious. Needs some type of baffling unless you want your ears to bleed.
    #3
    Biddles likes this.
  4. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    Inmate @Kai Ju has a nice thread on his cbr1000 conversion
    #4
    greasyfatman likes this.
  5. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Might just be the photo but that front end looks awfully steep in the first photo, bike just looks squeezed. Sure it hasn’t had any damage to the head stock?
    #5
    1 wheel peel likes this.
  6. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    It could, I sure hope not. My brother rode it and said it felt fine. The bars are turned all the way to the right, maybe if they were centered it would look better. Hopefully that's it, I have all day tomorrow to play with it. New triple tree top came in today from a Z1000 with risers. Hopefully I can get that on tomorrow and remove the ignition security bolts as I plan to relocate that. I'm looking for a certain style coolant reservoir, when I find it I'll relocate that as well.
    #6
  7. jake28

    jake28 Riding to the horizon.

    Joined:
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    I've done couple of these.

    1. Check the front end. On a steel framed bike, usually a front end hit will bend the frame. On a bike with a large section aluminum frame like your's, you'll usually bend or break the forks.

    Put a straight edge along the wheels front to back and see if you've got a tweak. Also, hop up and down not he front end and check for stiction in the forks that would indicate a bent fork.

    You've already done the ride test.

    2. Brake lines and cables. Motion Pro will do custom / longer brake lines which you may need for the riser bars.

    3. Coolant. Stainless steel bottles like clean canteen, readily available from amazon, make great reservoirs. You just tap them for hoses and you're good to go. I've also seen people use larger steel hip flasks if that is more your style.

    4. Exhaust. Your bike, your life, but no baffling is no good, even at a race track.
    #7
  8. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    I've had lot's of luck sourcing OEM parts on E-Bay.
    You have all winter to source parts.
    More parts will be listed now that riding season is winding down.
    Complete, new, painted body work can be had for cheap on E-Bay.
    It will sell quicker if it still looks stock so you can buy your loud, bad ass Hardly.
    #8
  9. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    I appreciate the advice! I never knew Motion Pro made cables, but I'll stick with Venhill. I've used them in the past, and I found them to be excellent. It seems like a lot of people don't know about them, and it's very easy to select your bike, then add inches of cable on top of that selection, and you can't beat the price.

    Although I do have all winter, I feel like I'm in a rush. Even with cold NY winters I still ride here and there. Today I installed the eBay rearsets I bought. I found the quality to be excellent, and very strong. The biggest problem is the limited room in the garage. Not my garage!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I can't lie it was very hard to work in there with my injuries still healing. What a fucking mess, again not my stuff.

    Oh yea and I ran into this issue... I replaced the Ninja 1000 triple tree top with the Z1000, and the fork tubes stick out about 2 1/4". The Ninja uses clipons above the yoke so you don't really notice the tubes sitting so high, but the Z1000 must have shorter fork tubes or something. I ordered some risers which I might end up returning depending on a few things. For one I feel that the added leverage of being that low on the fork tubes could increase the chances of the risers breaking, and the risers I ordered only allow a 7/8" diameter handlebar when I knew I really wanted 1 1/8" pro taper bars. Take a look.

    [​IMG]


    I have given some strong consideration to creating my own risers. I drew a basic mock up of a potential riser for the bike. I also found a guy on ebay who sells aluminum blanks in the perfect size for $30. I would have to thread the bottom of it of course, and shape it a bit in order to get it to look decent. The Rox pivoting risers probably won't fit in the OEM risers due to the forks being so close otherwise that would be a good option. Let me know what you guys think, and this drawing might not be understandable, the center dot in the square is where I would use a centerpunch for the 1 1/8" drill bit. The other markings are bolt lines/shape lines etc...

    [​IMG]



    Oh yea, IMS motorycle show tomorrow! I will be there! Looking forward to it a lot.
    #9
  10. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Can't the rox be put on the inside of the z1000 bar clamps?
    #10
  11. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    LOL why didn't I think of that?

    I swear sometimes my mind moves too quick, and overlooks whats right in front of me. I guess I'll try that option. I still wander how it's going to hold up. Oh yea IMS was decent this year, not as good as the first time I went back in 2015, but still worth the trip. It was the first time since the accident that I've thrown a leg over a bike.

    I finally got to check out the Royal Enfield Himalayan, and I want it even more now. The Suzuki Katana looked awesome to me . Some people hate it, some people liked it...

    Here are a few pics from the show including a ridiculous Confederate Motorcycle bike with a single suspension up front, never saw anything like this before. $125,000 though...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Some vintage bikes, thought this exhaust was sooo cool.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

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    And the Confederate...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #11
  12. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    So this is a test fitment with the new risers, and as you can see I had to go inside instead of outside the oem risers to mount them otherwise they'd hit the forks. This sucks for a few reasons. "Wider is better". Remember those commercials? Well the bar mounting is pretty narrow now, and I'm sitting about 2 1/2" down into the triple tree. This is fine for the stock bike as clip ons sit higher and increase ease of turning leverage. I can't help but wonder how my steering is going to be affected, this also could perhaps be a bit of overthinking on my part and it might just be fine... It also gives me a bit less center bar space for mounting options although I only really planed to put the cluster there. I took a handlebar off my mountain bike just to get an idea, and this bar is 1 1/4" so it doesn't sit perfectly and it's just held in place with the hex bolts. This bar is 28" wide so it's 3.5" short width wise compared to the Pro Tapers.

    Let me know what you guys think. I'm still on the fence about it, but it actually looks a lot better than I thought it would.

    Before
    [​IMG]


    After

    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    This may sound strange.


    Can you just run the oem top triple, then run the new triple right on top of that one in place of the clip ons to give you your bar mounts?

    Maybe mill off the steering head tube of the new triple so it’s just a bar mount.
    #13
  14. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    Well I have thought about putting a spacer in the center of the steering head, and finding a longer steering stem head bolt, but I'm not sure where the hell I'd find something like that, it would have to be a perfect fit. At absolute maximum I could get it higher 7/8" which is significant. My spacer would need to be 1 1/4" to fit the stem. Not sure where I could find that.I know the OEM steering stem cap gets torqued down to 108ft lbs and really holds everything together, running the oem top underneath wouldn't help me here. But I'm going to home depot, and it's worth a shot to see what they got. I'm sure someone somewhere makes hardware in this size that I could make use of, I just don't don't think Home Depot would have it.
    #14
  15. Biddles

    Biddles Suck it easy!

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    Not much progress just a whole lot of test fitting, bars on/off/on/off/on/off all so I can settle on handle bar bend and figure out a few issues. I had Murphs Risers on my Ninja so the bars were pretty high and close which made it very easy to ride. Now the bars are a little lower, and a bit further away, but not bad by any means at all. I had called Cycle Gear asking if they had the bars I wanted in stock, they said they did, but when I get there and they only have one bar... So I bought it, tested it and returned it. I had them order the ones I wanted so I have to wait 2-3 days for those to come in. Overall the steering and everything felt great in the garage. I don't think I'll have any issues with that, just have to make sure everything is torqued down tight.

    A few minor issues... the aftermarket risers that sit in the oem risers block the hex bolt that clamps them down. In order to tighten it I'll have to take a hacksaw to one of my allen keys, and cut it down to size just so I can get in there and tighten it. No big deal. The other issue is on the stock risers there are two pins that get clamped down to hold the Z1000 bracket(I think). I cannot get them to go in the correct way as they would hit the forks. I'll put them in the opposite way and again use a hacksaw to trim them down to size. I'll then thread the cut end and put a simple nut on it so it doesn't disappear. It sucks because I was hoping to make use of the Z1000 bracket which goes there, but none of the hardware from Home Depot, or the Hardware store fit snug like the special factory ones. I believe it's a 9mm rod, which tapers off to a 8mm thread on the end. I'm still trying to find a bolt like this, but so far I haven't been able to. If not it's getting the hacksaw treatment.

    I will say I am happy with the look, and when I get the cluster, headlight, and mini windscreen mounted you won't even see it. The only thing I don't like is the Pro Taper logo, it is not a simple removable sticker like I thought.

    [​IMG]
    #15