2012 BMW G650GS Sertao Owners

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Psychout, Dec 8, 2011.

  1. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Now that I've actually fitted and run Michelin Anakee Wild for a few thousand km's I can say that they are an awesome replacement for the Michelin T63's (aka the (subjectively) best 50/50 tires* before they retired and replaced them).
    Run Anakee 3's on my 19/17 wheels too and am so happy with them, but for me they are a street tire. I have taken them on gravel and was surprised at how well they sat, but I wasn't up for pushing them particularly hard. They are probably as close to an 80/20 as you can come. It's always going to be a compromise and we're looking for the one with the least negatives. It's like voting at the election :lol3
    * I'm not sure people realize just how much they ride on sealed surfaces even though they own dual sports and think they ride mostly offroad. At least that's my suspicion and also personal experience. The asphalt miles add up so fast compared to the gravel ones. Even when I rode around Australia on gravel roads a quick estimate after I got home confirms that out of the 26.000km I did, only about 10.000km was actually off the asphalt. So for me, one of the most important qualities of a 50/50 tire is how it handles wet asphalt. I'm biased after running Michelin's exclusively since 2004 now (apart from one set of Metzeler in 2009) - Michelin has found the secret rubber mix that makes a knobby stick to wet asphalt too.
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  2. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    You could consider going up on the rear sprocket instead/ too. 49 or 52. Either with 16 or 15. I think your chain will appreciate that if it's low end torque uphill you're after.
    I tried 13/49 once which was just stupid. Top speed was about 60mph :lol3
  3. Aircooled6racer

    Aircooled6racer Been here awhile

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    The thing with changing the front sprocket is it is a quick change. You can change a front sprocket from a 17 to a 15 or 16 in about 20 minutes since you are using the same chain. You can also take the small sprockets with you on a trip as well. 17 tooth to get you there and a 15 to play in the dirt.
    sraff and Big_John like this.
  4. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Yes, I agree and do/ have done the same, but "this bike is an off-road, exploring tool for me. I won't commute on it and I will never take a long trip on it. If it will run 60mph down the highway, that is all I need and I prefer a torque monster" changes the parameters.
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  5. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    I've had the Heidenau's on three separate bikes. They absolutely stink in wet conditions. No way around it with that super hard rubber.

    After I did my dirt bits yesterday, I carved a canyon and had the bike leaned WAY over and the 805 was sticking like glue. Now there is no way they will last like the Heidenau's....

    If I wanted to spend a little more, wanted a good off-road tire and wanted good wet traction..... this would be my 'hands-down' choice. I love Motoz and have had great experiences with them.


    [​IMG]
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  6. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    How does the RallZ wear?
  7. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    I had the tractionator desert on my 950 ADV and it went an astounding 4,500 miles. Its a super aggressive knobby and looked like it would burn out in 1,500 miles. After I pulled off the Desert, I put on Tractionator Adventure and currently have about 5k miles on it and it probably has at least another 3k to go. I have the Tractionator GPS on my VFR1200X and I am thinking it will probably go 10k miles.

    Motoz uses the high silica rubber that has super long wear.
  8. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    I put the Adventure front on my Sertao and took it off after about 1000 miles because it was terrifying on grooved pavement. It would not stay in any lane. Grabbed the brake in traffic one afternoon and ended up two lanes over. On smooth pavement it was okay, didn't get much dirt time but it seemed decent.

    Keep us posted on how the GPS does. It looks like it could be good option for those of us who have to ride long distances to dirt and gravel.
  9. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    I'm becoming my father..... going to bed at 8pm and waking up at 4am.... even on Saturday. So.... the the garage I went after coffee and breakfast.

    By 8am, I had the bike finished.....

    * Rox Risers Installed
    * 14T Sprocket Installed
    * Knight Lowering Pegs and Shifter/Brake Peddle adjustment
    * Oil Filter and Semi-Synthetic 15w40 installed
    * Fork Boots Installed... these were a piece of cake when I used the method of installing the big bolt on the stabilizer first and then rotating and pressing to thread the little bolt. I opted NOT to put the zip ties on the bottom.... we will see how that works out.


    With the Rox and the Knights.... my 6'4" is very nicely accommodated. The 14T transforms the bike to just what I want and LOVE IT geared low!!!!


    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
  10. Aircooled6racer

    Aircooled6racer Been here awhile

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    Wow, 14 tooth sprocket must make it a torque monster. Looks great.
  11. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    I've got a favor to ask of anyone who is installing new front brake pads. I'd like to know what brand/model you are installing and how thick the overall pad is and the thickness of the friction material (or the backing plate, whichever is easier to measure).
    upload_2019-9-4_19-47-38.png
    My Frankenbeemer is using the same caliper, but to clear the floater pins on the EBC rotor I've had to carve away the lower several mm of the friction material. The pads that came with the caliper were OEM and had a very thick friction material. I know the EBC V pads I've been using om my Sertao have less material thickness. Just trying to see what options I will have down the road (so-to-speak) even though I will modify them all to some extent.

    I also posted this over on the G650GS thread.

    Thanks in advance.
  12. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    May not be much use to you but the spare Metalgear pads 30.052 I have which I understand are German, the backing plate is 4mm, pad 4mm, 8mm total
  13. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Every bit of info helps. The one good thin about this setup is the 320mm EBC rotor is only 4.6mm thick, so I can use thicker than normal pads if necessary.
  14. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    How did you get the Caliper to line up for the 320mm disk on the DRZ400 forks ?
  15. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    @Prutser provided a caliper hanger to move the caliper out to a radius of 160mm. That and some M10 spacers to get the offset right.

    IMG_20190904_185103827.jpg
  16. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Neat set up as I would expect of you :D, re those pads you have, I vaguely recall the other Metalgear pads I fitted at the front last time round were a little tight to fit so were probably a little thicker than the spare spare set I have but I did not need to reduce their thickness
  17. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    It isn't the thickness that is the problem, it is the inner curved radius doesn't clear. I milled off about 4mm all along the curved edge of the friction material. Clears fine now but when the pads wear out, the pins will hit the backing. I'll just have to always carry spares with me.

    Of course, I could drop another $300+ USD on a custom rotor that would eliminate the problem. Took me about 10 minutes with a carbide cutter in my drill press to cut away the material that was in the way.
  18. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Spun bearing in rear wheel hub, any options?

    I was prepping the bike for a trip Oregon later this when when I noticed sideways play in the rear wheel at a couple of locations (not uniformly al around. I assumed I had blown a third wheel bearing on the outside (by the brake rotor). Pulled the wheel, stuck the axle back in the outside bearing, rocked it around and rotated and inspected and it is in good shape. Flipped the wheel over and did the same to the inside bearing and the whole bearing is loose.

    Pulled both bearings. The OD of the bearing is immeasurably smaller due to wear and there is a ridge around the bearing hole that feels to be .001" to .002" high.

    Options?
    1. Another hub from ebay
    2. Have a machine shop try to enlarge and press in a sleeve
    3. Aluminum foil shims
    4. Green Loctite
    5. Anything else?
    6. EDIT: Stop my my local bearing house and see what they recommend
    Short term, I can either swap the tire over to my other rim or mount a brand new E07 I have hanging on the wall on the other rim, but I'd like to keep two functional rims.
  19. Aircooled6racer

    Aircooled6racer Been here awhile

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    I would bore it and sleeve it. I am not sure if you will find an oversize bearing with the same id and thickness. The hub would still have to be bored to suit the new bearing. Another used hub may have the same problem and the other option won't last very long.
  20. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Interesting enough The bearing is loose, I couldn't rotate the outer race in the hub by hand, but it would rock a couple of degrees on several axis. Never seen one do that before. Usually the bearing is seized and tears up the recess entirely.

    Fortunately, my other rim is in good order. Even has new bearings (blew the outside bearing last summer in Alberta).

    I only buy name brand bearing from a reputable dealer so not sure why these bearing are only lasting 9,000 to 15,000 miles. Seems like they should do 25,000 to 35,000 before I would even have to think about them. Counterfeits?