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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by The Game, Sep 11, 2012.
huh. That could work. I’ll have to give that some thought. I think Home Depot/husky has something similar.
I'm on Wolfman's site now and can't locate that pack. Any chance you can share a link? I like that setup a lot.
Hmmm. I wonder if it's been discontinued. I can find it via searching but can't seem to find a purchase option.
I dropped my 15 1000 in the garage last night trying to get it on the Center stand. Busted the brake lever and the knuckle Cover, commonly known as the hand guard.
The dealer wants $58 for that piece of plastic. Does anyone have any good alternative suggestions or any used ones they want to sell?
Got the fender lift installed this morning.
It likely doesn't help but you can get both for $68.00 + shipping
Post up a Want to Buy thread in the Flea Market. With the amount of people that upgrade to aftermarket hand guards....I bet someone has one lying around. The brake lever too.
Maybe check Stromtrooper too.
just did that myself. Seems like a lot of $ for a couple machines brackets with the threaded holes not even straight, but it works.
Got the oem lever for $15 and the oem guards for $60 on flea bay. Probably should have but the money towards aftermarket guards, but it’s a street bike.
Everything that I’ve gotten from them looks fine. The only thing I wasn’t 100% thrilled with is the GPS shelf, which...to me...is WAY over-built for what it is.
As far as I know, these are made in house by the seller as they’re ordered by customers (small batches). I’m sure they could be made for cheaper if the were produced abroad, but I doubt their (probably relatively low) order volume makes having 100 or more of something lying around complete make a whole lot of sense.
Yeah...I can’t say that I’d be wanting to pay the premium for the aftermarket parts.
How`s the comfort on these? I`m currently on a FJ-09 and after a couple of seasons I`m finding the ergos have gotten very uncomfortable. Specifically, I want my feet farther forward with my lower half in something closer to the “kitchen chair” position. The FJ`s seating position feels like I`m straddling a log with no support from my legs. Not fun...
I had a `06 Wee when I got back to riding and a nearly new 1000 popped into my head as I was thinking about what bike I want to replace the FJ. The Wee wasn`t perfect, but boy did I do a lot of riding on it.
It’s pretty comfortable and adjustable with aftermarket parts. And you have the option of standing when things get uncomfortable
My wife has an FJ-09 and I have a 2018 V-Strom 1000, both are great. I'm 6'1" and the V-Strom is a much more comfortable riding position, more neutral, fits me great - has more of the "kitchen chair" ergos. When I get a chance to ride my wife's FJ-09, I find the foot pegs too far back, not as comfortable for longer distances.
The positives on the FJ09 are the great triple engine, fast handling (17 front wheel vs 19 on the Strom), light weight, it is a great bike.
I found a tool tube pouch. I think this will work for tools in the under seat location (will just have to fold the extra pouch length).
Rusty fork tubes on my 2014 V2 after less than 5 years ! (Low mileage, no salt to roads here.)
Hi all, has anyone else had such rapid deterioration to their chrome ? Bubbled up, rust visible.
After cleaning with an edge, then 1200 wet and dry, there are still harsh ledges to eat seals.
Solutions : OEM new is about $480 AUD per leg !
Aftermarket new not available eg. Tarozzi, TNK, etc.
Rechroming is I believe about $350-400 AUD for both legs. eg. Rad Hard in Qld.
Ultimately I'll get them rechromed and as they'll already be disassembled, upgrade the internals.
As a short term solution, has anyone had success with epoxies, etc to fill the holes ?
Obviously meticulous surface preparation is paramount to achieve a durable repair.
The holes in the chrome are many, are irregular and some are quite deep,
to the extent that many hours and a fine file will be needed to clean them to fresh steel.
This is worthwhile if the repair might last 5000km, but not if it comes out after just 50 :)
What is the most durable repair anyone has achieved by such a method ?
Cheers, Craig *
That'd be unusual on either Strom, not rust immune and spotting on the parts that are hidden is common but that sort of deterioration no.
That sounds a lot like current through the fork legs, you don't have aux lights mounted low or similar do you ?.
There's an Italian company advertising fork legs for damn near everything on eBay. Try other models, find who they are and contact them.
I have heard of epoxy/epoxy putties being used with some success, cleaning it well will make a huge difference but I don't fancy your chances even so. I'd expect more than 50k's though where it stuck well.
Ahhh ! Interesting idea about the current passing from accessories.
I mounted LED floods to the crash bars and used a plastic adaptor there.
The rest of the circuit is earthed via the battery ground to the frame.
The circuit has it's own switch and the lights are seldom used.
So overall it sounds unlikely but I'm no electrician.
Yes, there is another Italian company apart from Tarozzi, who unfortunately also don't do inner tubes for the V2.
There are some custom manufacturers but they'll be very expensive due to the small production run.
Epoxies/fillers - yes many potential inadequacies. There won't be much surface to bond with and the fork seals
will exert shearing forces and perhaps pressure differences as the repair moves from outside to inside the fork.
Plus any grit that got past the dust seal would quickly eat into the softer material of the repair.
If the poor surface was near the limit of the fork travel one could take measures to limit the travel to prevent
contact with the seals, except the affected area extends as far as the final 1/3 of the travel and who wants to
compromise the performance of a merely adequate fork ?
This problem with fork chrome corroding easily appears to be common and even seen on premium brands (KTM) .
Cost cutting or lower standard production process ? Hmmmm....
Around 575,500 km / 357,600 km on three stroms. Current strom (2015 DL1000) has about 234,000 km /145.000 miles.
My stroms (especially the last two) are ridden all year long and are subject to lots of salted and salt-brined roads. They are rarely washed and to make things worse the current one has been kept in a heated garage.
There has never been a spec of rust on the forks. Some of the accessories (is SW Motech sidecase mounts etc) have some very minor spots on them and that's about it.
I don't think there is a general issue with the quality of the materials on Stroms.
I know from the auto world that sometimes harsh cleaners can cause corrosion haven't really heard it on chrome surfaces.
I don't know what caused the rust. But there has to be more to this story than is presented. I just don't see how they could rust like that without some kind of chemical action.
Hi guys, long time lurker so I know the sigs and respect your experience and expertise. Not having a go at Suzuki or the V2 either.
But rust was far in excess of what is acceptable on a 5 year old bike. (Brother's 30y.o. no favors done, R65 had minimal rust to forks.
I had FZ750 in UK in salt roads and gloom, lived outdoors with no cover and little cleaning for 12 years without problem.)
My V2 was kept outside (bike cover about half of that) and given some attention to cleaning (neither concours nor total neglect).
Little use in rain or on dirt roads. Temperate climate away from salty sea air. Location of corrosion is inner surface of both fork legs,
but this area is hardly vulnerable to scratches from gravel. Inner surface is difficult to see as fork leg shrouding obscures it.
Didn't notice corrosion until recent fork seal leak. Been riding for 40 years (incl. several old bikes) and never seen anything like this.
Late 2014 manufacture, purchased new from showroom July 2015. The damage is done, just wondering why ? Cheers, Craig *