2014+ DL1000 Vstrom

Thanks for your suggestions PeterW (p.364 25/06/2020). Checked aux lights as directed and 0 amps detected.
So no destructive current passing from them at present. However, in the past (2+ years ago) there was a
parasitic draw on the battery. There was an issue with the ground cable which was replaced under warranty.
Also, I improved on the aux light wiring to include an isolation switch separate from the handlebar high beam switch.
(First wiring plan was from stromtrooper I think.) So it's looking like a current in search of an earth is/was the problem.
The brake pistons and pad backing plates are also showing way more corrosion than one would expect on a 5 y.o. bike.

Regarding repair to the fork, rechroming the inner tubes will be needed in the medium term or sooner. See photos.
In the short term, I have tried to clear the space between the tube and oil seal by swiping through with 35mm film.
This seemed to work perfectly (no leak with repeated pumping of fork), so hopefully the seals aren't badly damaged.
Treating the damaged chrome to make a temporary repair/minimise further seal damage was much more involved.
Plastic scourer then 1200 wet and dry removed surface corrosion but the pitted sections still had sharp edges.
Filing was considered but with over 100 irregular holes/pits just on the left leg ''ain't nobody got time fo' that shit''.
Cleaned again with detergent, meths, phosphoric acid, meths, contact cleaner spray then tried to fill with Permatex
Steel Weld epoxy. The finished job was less than ideal as the razor blade removed more than the excess epoxy on
the clean chrome. But it hasn't leaked yet :)

Well good on you working on that and hopefully getting a result that may work. And thank you for sharing... it's a great lesson to all of us about how important it is to follow good and proper wiring techniques when adding accessories.

You're right, that's a hell of a lot of corrosion on a 5 year old bike. How far away from the ocean do you live?

Thanks for the update and luck with the repair.

Mattb - 5km away and 90m up. Cause is not environmental. I queried how much this was down to
poor materials/manufacture but this seems v. unlikely, whilst electrolysis is v. likely the cause.

How long does it take for the fuel pump to prime on your Stroms when the ignition is switched on ? Mine takes about three and a half seconds.

The reason I ask is that yesterday I ran out of fuel and I am a little anxious that my fuel pump might have suffered a little for the 10/15 seconds that it was not being fed. I won't get too much into the reasons as they are not the primary reason for my question, but there was a combination of the fuel range warning not functioning as it should and my own stupidity. Yes I know I shouldn't have trusted it etc etc.

Thanks in advance for responses.

It's fine. I run it to the " --- " miles left warning probably half the time I ride it. Concerns over fuel pumps burning up due to lack of fuel lubrication are really not an issue anymore.

Has anybody else noticed a loud engine clatter near redline? Wondering if that is the rev limiter kicking in or something else. Around 8500 rpm it comes on suddenly. 2015 1000.

o m g .

Tbh I have never had mine remotely near the redline so can't help You on this. Mostly I make good progress keeping under 6500/7000.

Yes, I mostly ride at low rpms so I decided to “give it the beans” and was surprised to hear that noise.

My "growing up" on motorcycles was on sport bikes and a racetrack doing track days and taking coaching, so I am not a stranger to the high rpm power rush. But frankly this engine is not tuned for that. Like others have mentioned, there is nothing to be gained above 6500-7000. The wonderful torque curve below that is what makes this bike a joy to ride.

After owning my bike for over a year have decided to change the rear sprocket. Most of my riding is at 60 mph or below and the stock gearing is just to high. Rarely do I shift into 6th unless I am on the interstate. Would like to change out the rear sprocket for a new one for starters. Don't want to throw any codes.
What # of teeth sprocket do you guys recommend and where is a good place to buy it?

I've owned my 2014 Vee for 5 years and ridden it to redline more than a few times. Never any strange noises. In fact, as much as I've ridden this bike in all types of situations...it's never failed me, or done anything remotely strange. It just keeps going.

On further inspection I found a cracked crash bar that was possibly rubbing together causing the noise and vibration.

I changed out my front sprocket for one tooth smaller and this change works well for me.
A front sprocket is cheap and you won't need a longer chain. Something to consider for a test run.
see also gearingcommander.com

9250 and yes I've noticed that on my 2014. The rev limiter on the 1000's is really harsh.

And the reason I've hit that is that a DL1000 in 2nd will out accelerate an R1 in 4th and most R1 riders are scared (with good reason) to use all the rev range, that's been a surprise for a few squids around here .

So after breaking my 1st gen. Ravetech skidplate for the second time I'm looking for a new skidplate. Anything new out there that has some engine case protection?

Happy Trails. Rugged and has no connections to the crankcase side covers.

ditto to happy trails skid plate....
- substantial up front protection
- seemingly wider than most
- mounts to frame & crash bars (heed for me)
- steel

yeah, it's big....
i don't mind having to remove it for oil-changes.....

on par w/ my no-longer available favourite, endurogaurdian...