Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by MariusD, Oct 4, 2016.
I'd say that depends on bar bend, sweep, width, for/aft position, risers used, gen of strom
2" is good enough.
The DR could get 2".
Most likely so can the Wee.
You can't get 2 inches without rerouting the cables and brake line. IIRC, conventional wisdom on the V-Strom forums is that 1 inch is all you can raise the bars before you start running out of cable and brake line length. As mentioned above, I only have experience with 2 inch risers, so can't guarantee that's true.
I just watched a review by brake magazine and he said that she has a good wheel turn range.
That might be why 1" is as high as you can go.
The height is not an issue. It's the reach.
I wish she had Versys 650 ergos.
Front and rear sag are set appropriately. Cogent ddc front end with stock rear. The top box was normally empty or had just a backpack with a laptop-I’m about 205 lbs plus gear. It didn’t make the bike unrideable by any means, but it definitely feels better balanced, more predictable, and overall (a little) more enjoyable with the box off. It’s disappointing as I love the top box for commuting, so I was just curious what everyone else experienced
Yeah, between your weight and the topbox load behind the rear axle, you are taxing the rear spring/shock. I weigh a lot less, have an aftermarket shock (refurbished DL1K shock, which is longer, so it also shifts more weight forward) and I can tell when I have a fully loaded topbox that bike doesn't handle the same. You are right, for commuting, it's hard to beat a topbox. When I travel, I have a drybag that sits over the passenger seat and rack, keeping the weight forward and having minimal impact on the bike's handling. Unintended benefit - the shape is actually a lot more usable, despite having the same nominal rating as the topbox, I can fit more things in the drybag. Con - it's harder to find things at the bottom of this cavernous bag...
I actually bought it for my Versys, as it has a shorter wheelbase and is even more affected by a heavily loaded topbox than the V-Strom, but it works just as well on the V-Strom too.
I was curious as to how well the 650 is doing with inflation.
$1,300 increase in price from 2011 to 2020.
Two engine upgrades. More beans and longer service intervals.
Rear spring load adjustment
12 volt socket
Easy Clutch assist
Can upgrade to spoke wheel tires easily. And the XT Touring model too.
Did drop some fuel. 5.8 down to 5.3
Did gain about 5lbs of weight.
I would pay the extra $1,300 for the 2020 model.
Now, upgrading to the DL1000 that is now $13,399. No way.
I'll keep the $4,600.
The ergos are better and so are the suspension and brakes. But that really matters if you are pushing the bike harder. Sure, one could argue it is safer.
Rear shock adjustment existed already on 1st and 2nd generation. Unfortunately for some strange reason Suzuki decided to make front end not adjustable any more for 3rd gen. In addition you can't just replace forks on it with set from previous model because lower legs are not the same. They changed design of ABS sensor and it's mounting point.
Thanks for the feedback.
So did the 2011 model have ABS?
ABS was available on V-Stroms since the 2007 model year as an option. It became standard on the 2nd gen bikes (2012 and later).
No ABS on 1000 untill 2014 model. On 650 as mentioned above except Canada where it was standard on 2008 and up.
I added some 10w LED lights to my '17 650 V strom today. Mostly for others to see me but also to brighten up the night a little. I got some Vision X lights off of Craigslist for $30, and after thinking about fabbing a mount, I decided to order a light mount from Rick at Adventure Tech. I'm glad I did, because the mount works well, is powdercoated and is well thought out. There are lots of ways to wire auxiliary lights, but for me the simple solution is to wire with a relay that is triggered by the high beam circuit. I had an old PIAA relay laying around and used it for this project.
After some searching I found that the high beam circuit to the lights (yellow wire) can be accessed at the large group of plugs fastened to the left fairing panel. I hope this tidbit of information helps someone down the road.
I've seen adjustable fork caps on e-bay. Will they work on the 2017 and up to make preload adjustable?
@Ernest T - Yes, but these are not the right size. The DL650 uses 43mm forks.
Has anyone gone from a Super Tenere to a late model Wee? I’m thinking lighter is better at my age and the Wee checks a lot of boxes ( reliable, dirt roady, decent handling, etc). I’ve had big hp and don’t mind the idea of having to flog it for motivation. I must be gertting old because just tooling around (instead of hooning) is my thing these days.
How does this help you be seen by others if you wire it to the high beam? Then it's only on when nobody is in sight.
high beams during daylight hours increase visibility
Wow, this is totally irresponsible in my opinion and I believe also against the law just about anywhere. Doesn't do anything to maintain good relationships between motorcyclists and other motorists. Why don't you just wire the accessory lights to be on all the time instead of driving around with high beams on?
I may end up doing just that...