2017 Yamaha SCR950 Scrambler

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Eddy Alvarez, Jun 8, 2016.

  1. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Put on my new tires! Mefo explorer front and Vee rubber vrm-163 rear. The front is a 50/50 tire and the rear has a similar chevron pattern. The rear tire is very round, far more so than the stock brisgestones. This makes it want to fall into turns a bit more. The front on the other hand is more resistant to turning in, the knobs make it feel a bit slower. It’s a slightly odd feeling, but in just a few miles it was second nature. I think I’m going to like this combo. But we’ll see how long the tires last.

    I got 4500 miles out of the stock bridgestones. Front cupped badly and caused headshake and the rear just wore out fast. If I can get at least 5000 out of the rear I’ll be happy.

    Charles.
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  2. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    It has been pointed out to me in the Yamaha Bolt thread that there are now FORSA shocks for Japanese fitment!

    They all have part number SH-110, a suffix, and a model designation.

    Suffix breakdown:
    BR for black body red spring.
    B for black body black spring
    C for chrome body and spring
    BC for black body chrome spring

    I don’t think the spring rate is different between any of the different model designations. All the shocks look the same and have the same model numbers.

    Just eyeballing it, looks like the xv250 version has the correct metal collar in all four bushings. Also looks like the pre-2017 Triumph Bonneville, SE, and speedmaster shocks have the correct collars as well. 2017-up appear to not have a metal collar in the bushings.

    Charles.
  3. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Oh also that reminds me! Looking at the eBay shocks I realized the brand on them is listed as MPO. I remember seeing that on the box, but FORSA is stamped on the shock body itself. I wasn’t sure what the brand actually was so I went with what was on the shock itself.

    Charles.
  4. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Here’s the bike with new shoes!!

    900DB3DE-BC15-4419-B196-8D3C1473DA95.jpeg

    Charles.
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  5. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Oh and someone asked to see the whole bike with the rear hugger installed. Here you go.

    261CE768-3B66-4885-B0C5-A11F4EC1B039.jpeg

    Also shows the new rear tire!

    Charles.
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  6. Dread

    Dread Putt-Putt Adventurer

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    That was me - damn that bike looks good!
  7. Dread

    Dread Putt-Putt Adventurer

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    What size box is that on the rear?
  8. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    That’s the medium harbor freight box. One size down from the biggest.

    Charles.
  9. PARDAL1970

    PARDAL1970 Going somewhere...

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Cascais, sunny Portugal
    I came here just to say (in 2019) that I absolutely love the bike. It has a lot of perfect defects, a lot of magnificent imperfections. An air cooled v-twin with 50hp, with marginally better ground clearance, a more up right, “off-roady” riding position, in fact: a true scrambler! (meaning: it’s like you owned a bolt and just turner it a little more off-road capable - isn’t it what the “scramble” thing is all about?). I personally love it! Ps: I’m becoming tired of too much of what I really don’t need to have fun and ride. Thanks Yamaha! - still keeping my Supertenere and xt600e -!
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  10. alekkas

    alekkas Long timer

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    So this may have been posted. But having read some of the past few pages (not the whole thread) this fortnine video seems to perfectly nail what some are saying. And is a work of art, of course.

    Do yourself a favor and watch. Story, film making and a seemingly spot on review.

  11. Dread

    Dread Putt-Putt Adventurer

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    It’s a great bike. Love mine!
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  12. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    New grips and bar ends today.

    I bought these grips for my SSR Buccaneer, and absolutely love them. They’re thin, but the diamond pattern is cushy. I had big fat grips on my SCR950 and I found myself avoiding riding the bike because my hand would cramp and I just didn’t feel like I had as much control. I like these better than the biltwell grips. The rubber is smooth, where the biltwell grips are tacky like a pencil eraser. The throttle grip and tube are vulcanized together.

    These aren’t, however, bolt-one. They require modification I had to dremel the throttle cable portion to match the SCR, removing some extra plastic and sanding the radius down a hair to fit in the throttle housing. Once you have the two throttle tubes side by side it’s easy to see the modifications needed.

    The bar ends required drilling and tapping the plugs in the handlebars. Not an easy feat for the average joe. I intend to use the bar ends as spacers when I mount a set of Tusk D-flex handguards later, but for now they’re looking great as-is.

    9C566D7D-B0EF-4E1B-9D2B-6B63B3FFF68C.jpeg 60DA37F9-6155-4074-869C-B733FF2374A6.jpeg 342739D2-673B-4E93-BB98-0FCEED9ABF6A.jpeg
    Charles.
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  13. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Here is the bike decked out for touring btw.

    2108D33F-3E4B-4134-A874-C84CB8E9DC0D.jpeg

    Charles.
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  14. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    I'm liking the VRM-163 on the rear. Not sure about the Mefo Explorer up front though. It does NOT like painted road markings at all. It'll slip on them in the dry if pushed, and it's like marbles on ice when it's wet. Weirdly, the mefo handles wet road pretty well, no drama. But even going straight over crosswalk paint when it's wet causes a pucker moment with the Mefo.

    The VRM? I can take off full throttle on crosswalk paint when it's wet, and no slippage. The VRM is also very round, and makes the bike steer quicker. It's too bad there's not a matching front tire. I'm curious what kind of mileage I'll get out of this combo. So far I'm pleased with the VRM and the jury is still out on the Mefo.

    Charles.
  15. twotiretirade

    twotiretirade n00b

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    Cropped Use this one..jpg
    This is my new SCR, I put a Corbin Seat on her and she is 90 percent more comfortable. I put about 320 miles on her this day and butt did not get upset till the end of the day. I love this bike!!!!
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  16. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    I fear I’m going to have to get a Corbin

    Charles.
  17. Patek

    Patek Long timer

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    I know this is not the Bolt thread, but in my attempt to get some more cornering clearance and rear suspension travel, I think I may have turned my bolt into a standard. My biggest concern is how to properly adjust the belt so that I don't snap it with the additional shock travel. Thoughts? I dropped so low that I I had to remove the stock exhaust. Yes these are extremely inexpensive shocks but there are decent reviews from the HD guys on them.

    IMG_20190826_222533896.jpg IMG_20190826_222947789.jpg IMG_20190826_232522349.jpg IMG_20190826_232531620.jpg IMG_20190826_232544296.jpg

    For reference, this is what it looked like before:

    Attached Files:

  18. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Set the bike up with the stock shocks and adjust the tension per the manual. (On the side stand). Adjust it on the tight side (6mm deflection) Measure shock length. Jack bike up, remove shocks. Measure unladen shock length.

    The difference is how much of the shock travel was taken up by the weight of the bike. Measure the exposed piston. Now you have the total shock travel. Reduce total travel by the difference.

    Now lower the bike on the lift until the distance between the shock mounts equals a fully compressed shock (shock length minus that travel measurement above) Measure the belt tension here.

    This is your target tension for fully compressed RFY shocks. Measure rfy shock length and the travel, and then adjust the bike height to the fully compressed rfy shock length. Adjust the belt tension to match the tension you got for the stock shocks.

    Now after it’s all adjusted and back together, measure the tension on the side stand. Now you know your new target deflection. Mine ended up being 9mm.

    Also, it is important to adjust the tension at the tightest point of the belt and not to
    Rotate the wheel at all between all measurements.

    Charles.
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  19. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Also I found with my scr, that I got a wobble and weave with the rear lifted without the front also lifted. Almost a tank slapper on the highway at higher (90+) speeds, especially when gripping tightly. I slid the tubes down in the trees until the fork nut top was flush with the top of the tree. This means the tube is about a quarter inch below the top. Still plenty of metal clamped in the top tree tho.

    Stock, my tubes stuck up 1/4 inch above the tree, so for the SCR it was a half inch raise in the front, 1 inch raise in the rear.

    If you need to go more extreme, you can get fork tube extensions for the bolt on eBay. I emailed the guy in the past and he will make 1” extensions for about $90. (He normally sells 3” extensions)

    Charles.
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  20. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Also I’m very curious what rhe actual height difference is with the RFY shocks, and how much travel is taken up by sag. My 12.25 shocks ended up with a 1” height difference with the preload on the 2nd click up from 0, and the bike on the side stand.

    Charles.
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