Well, lets get started shall we. my CRF500L just crossed over 250,000km's so ive retired it as my "bush bike", that i leave out at my cabin. i am now looking for a bike to do the long haul trips. my goal of this build is to make a comfortable long distance touring bike that i can take camping, long haul trips (2,000km+), while riding in relative comfort both from wind and vibration, low cost of ownership, low maintenance, and still being able to "go anywhere". so basically i want a competent off-pavement machine, that can still do some off-road, while still being able to do the on-road stuff in comfort. insert the crf1000L, the SUV of the motorbike world! as always with all my builds, i encourage feedback, both negative and positive please. i picked the bike up at the end of May, about 21G out the door. i was one of the first to buy the 2018 ATAS in canada. huge smile under the helmet! apart from the windscreen visor extension, i rode the bike bone stock for 1,500km's to get a good feel for the bike before i started modding it. initial impressions. pros: -bike does indeed ride like a "big dirtbike". -gets fantastic fuel economy, ive been averaging right around 4L/100km, which is truly impressive for a 1000cc bike. -fuel range is amazing at well over 600km's+ -the upgraded suspension on the ATAS over the regular AT is a big/ noticeable improvement. -wind protection is good apart from the peak buffeting that comes from the fork tunnel. -riding position is very good, along with tall handle bar and wider foot pegs over stock to make standing a breeze. -the rubber mounted skid plate and crash bars dont vibrate at all, (biggest complaint with after market crash bars/ skid plates, way to much vibration). -i measured the bike at 537lbs with a full tank of gas, which is heavy for any bike, but alot lighter then its competition. -wide handle bar, and low center of gravity makes this bike feel alot lighter then it actually is. -low seat height while still having tons of ground clearance is a huge plus. - 5stage heated grips work really well. -rubber mounted handle bar means goodbye bent handle bars when you crash! nice! cons: -stock exhaust is too loud -lack of cruise control is a huge miss for honda here. only reason i bought the bike is because you can buy it after market from MC-criuse....... -stock fork seals are made of cheese, blew both after the first ~300km's -the crf1000L is NOT an off-road bike, it just is not. off-pavement sure, but off-road its useless. too heavy, too wide, too tall, and way too much power. -stock tires are garbage off-road ( i realize the above "con" would be helped but not totally fixed with knobby tires). end of the day this is a 50/50 bike so yeah...... - buffeting from the fork tunnel is unbearable past 100km/hr -stock seat is very firm IMO, even tho its like 7" thick???? -wind screen is taller/wider then regular AT, but for my 6ft frame it needs to be taller. -absolutely cannot stand the one-light-out lowbeam/highbeam. -stock lighting is better then most bikes, but compared to a car.......still shit. -stock gearing is abit short, i would like taller gearing for lower RPM's on the highway/ better fuel economy/ less engine wear. - lack of baffles in the larger fuel tank causes fuel slosh, very noticeable off-road at slower speeds. -the damn oil drain hose fills up really fast and is a pain to empty. -lack of tubeless is annoying but not a deal breaker. -on board display is way off,distance km's are off, L/100km is off, time goes out of sync within 1 week. only thing accurate on there is the rpm's ( or is it lol????) -7 stage traction control is useless, 7-2 feels exactly the same and is way to intrusive, while level 1 is the only real usable one, with 0 being the best of course. -throttle return spring is really strong/ jerky. opening the throttle hurts the wrist after only a few hours. now that thats out of the way, time to fix those cons, and build the perfect SUV adventure bike. blown fork seals after only 300km's, and i hardly got a few feet off the ground during the jump that blew them........ was pissed but took them apart and re-built them: found dirt in the oil, so it was not the jump itself that caused the leak, rather the mud/dirt on the stanchions got past the fork seals when the bike landed off the jump and flexed the stanchions. fork flex. to prevent a blown seal from happening ever again: moose racing stanchion covers. the forks are not as smooth now cuz of the covers, but at least i will never have to replace a fork seal ever again, (or at least for the next 100,000km's) next up is the headlights/ lighting: the stock LED head lights are actually fairly good for a bike, when compared to other bikes that is. as most bikes have horrible lighting. compared to a car with dual headlights, the ATAS lights are shit. plus i really, REALLY, hate the one-light-burnt out lowbeam/highbeam look. so i went ahead and took the headlight apart, removed the stock LED driver/ reflector and put in two BI-led projectors from TRS, (BI being there is a solenoid/shield inside that cuts the beam in half. half for lowbeam, half for highbeam). had to bend and adjust the metal bracket to make both projectors shine perfectly straight, and to have identical beam patterns. just to show how much of the rear of the housing had to come off to mount these projectors this entire back panel is sealed up later via plastic welding and silicone to make it water tight. i also added 2 small gortex vent holes, as the single stock one is not enough for such a high powered system. cutting the shroud to make it fit: mounting the LED ballasts: looks pretty good IMO, very very mean looking. stock half halos stay on always when the key is turned now as a DRL. and no more one-light-burnt look!!!!!!! lowebeam: now for the obligatory foglights: made some custom mounting brackets. i also rubber mounted them to the crash bars using some TRS LED projector foglights mounted some AUX highbeam spot lights too i disabled the front turn signal yellow light via a switch for night time riding, it also turns the rear read tail light on, during the day the switch turns the yellow light back on and the back red tail light off. the signal functionality is unaffected. now for output shots! just the low beam now, wow! what an improvement: please note these projectors have a super sharp cutoff so you wont blind oncoming traffic, as seen above the cut off is right where a cars bumper/tires would be. sorry for the blurr, but lowbeam: foglights, they are stupidly wide! some before and after: old stock led lowbeam: new BI-LED projector lowbeam, you can basically see twice as far, and about twice as wide!!!! old stock led highbeam: new bi-led projector highbeam: Look at that super sharp cut off, love it! and the highbeam is just unreal now onto the electrical: stock the bike over read by 13% , as in i was going 100km/hr but the speedo said i was doing 113km/hr........ installed a speedo healer, speed is now 100% correct, ODO is way off now tho..... mounted up some water proof switches left switch is for foglights, next to it is the lowbeam switch, and on the right is the turn signal constant yellow light off/ tail light on switch. used an old Toyota carrolla fuse box for the relays/ fuses not exactly loom of doom but alot of wires! just needs to be wrapped up and stuffed into the old tool box cant even tell its a fuse box, nice! just the way i like it. now for the seat. the stock seat was very firm, which makes no sense cuz the ATAS has a taller seat thats like 7" thick........ so i first added foam on the sides of the seat to make the seat 2" wider on each side i then cut a 1" hole to fit the gel insert covered it up, and much wider now! seat is a full 1" shorter now compared to stock,that plus the low seat setting makes the seat height 34.4" next up, that damn oil drain tube. its so hard to get to and it requires dumping like very 300km's. so i extended it, capped it, and hid it: why wasn't this the way the bike came stock??? stock exhaust is too loud, at idle @5ft away was getting 75db's so i installed 2 of these exhaust silencers inside the exhaust, right after the cat, but before the muffler it totally did the trick, @5ft, db's went down to 70, down from 75db's next up is the throttle return spring: as you all know, the 2018 comes with a TBW system. so no cable. but the damn spring is just way to strong, hurts the wrist. so i took it apart drilled a small hole and moved the spring mount hole by about 90degrees (from the middle left, down to the bottom, straight down) now the force required to pull the throttle has been reduced by about 80%. the handle bar may be rubber mounted but ive noticed (as others have), some vibration still gets through around 3-4,000rpm's. my solution: thin rubber sheet, cut to fit, glued onto the handle bar, and then glued to the riser/mount. i also rubber mounted the brake assembly, and the clutch lever. also added a phone mount, rubber mounted of course. and a fork tunnel wind deflector. ripped off that disgusting rear tail light assembly in favor of the sleek and stealthy/hidden look: added spools: reduced the gearing in the rear to 40t from 42t. this gave better fuel economy, lower RPM's, and longer engine/oil life added adjustable levers for both clutch and brake. also made a custom air deflector for the oem hand guards to make them larger. added the oem honda radiator leg/ knee defelctors: used both the sticky tape that came with it and screws to hold it on as i dont trust just tape........ got a MRA windscreen, with the extender piece. now the air goes right over my head while not blocking my vision of the road. i also made some custom peices to fit around the middkle of the screen to help keep wind off my pits/ shoulders added the oem honda wind deflectors: next up is the panniers. now, at the time no-one made panniers for the new 2018 ATAS model year. so i bought a tusk pannier set for a 2016-2017 model and welded it up to make it fit. i really don't like it when one pannier sits further from the bike then the other. i really like symmetry. so as i was welding up a new bracket, i brought the right pannier closer to the exhaust, and the other left pannier further away from the bike. that way both panniers sit the same exact distance from the bike. i used ridged cases from home depot, they are water tight, and very durable. comparable to pelican cases, minus the warranty of course. the cases hardly stick out the sides of the bike from the front profile, nice! better pics of the welding i did, and the new bracket. small aluminum case that is permanently attached to the bike. this case hold all my tools, tubes, and everything i would need to take this entire bike apart and to full service it. bed liner painted the entire rack looks solid also installed some tank protectors/ knees grip pads: i ordered in the cruise control kit from MC-cruise. it will be in next week and i will be installing it then: as for luggage, i tend to pack light so i dont need that much storage space. the ridged panniers have alot of room in them but i added abunch more just incase. i also sewed a gasoline tank mount and attached various camo packs to the bike for a long haul trip. and a net of course. bought a motorbike dual (front / rear)camera dash cam: not in the bike yet but will be by end of month got a heated seat installed: mounted the switch near the heated grip button: looks ugly, but it is water proof and functional. the seat itself came out pretty good too, not too many bulges from the heated element,. also added some brown foam to fill the gap between the seat and the gas tank: and lastly install my custom CNC made mini light bar: just bought these. just trying to control the spray off the wheels in the wet. dash camera all installed: no idea what happened to the sound, i think YouTube made it laggy, its off by about 10-15 secs?? not completely happy with the quality, altho i have had worse. but my car dash cam is way better ,(using an A119 VIOFO 2K,ultra hd) the rear camera is only 480p, front is 720p, however the front one looks worse due to the fish eye/wide angle lens i suspect. got the front fender installed. noticed almost immediate less mud/dirt on the front of the bike. rear fender installed too. agian, huge difference in the mount of dirt/mud on the bike. also took the time to install AUX brake lights. they dim with just like the night time lights, and go bright when the brake light turns on, just as the stock brake light. also installed a wind screen brace, since the windscreen plastic was flexing too much under high winds, didnt want a wind screen crack. this also had the effect of raising the wind screen by about 2". bike is ready for round the world trip! hope you guys enjoyed, please leave a comment! cheers.