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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by cabanza, Dec 2, 2018.
Hi jojo have you mounted one of those on you bike ? In case...would love to see a pic.
Looks great, but are the really 32mm lower than stock ? Love your Denali lights
I thought the same thing that they weren't that much lower but they are lower and they are certainly wider and get better grip any conditions. So they have worked well for me and I do notice it's easier on my knees at 6'1".
Your question reminds me that I do need to contact Knight designs and inquire how much lower they believe them to be vs reality. The inserts are removable and they are coming out with rubber ones too.
Considering spoked wheels for your CB500X? Here is some info
another good video but isn't the spoked wheel less rigid and able to flex/dissipate extreme loads that might break a cast wheel?
I had to check google translate. It seems like rigid means "not able to bend", I used the word in the meaning "stronger". What I actually ment is what you say Sorry about my English. I asked my brother what he think of my English and he said Im "improving". I was quite happy with that
That's what I thought. It's impressive that rally raid got the weight of the wheels to be the same.
Yes, usually spoked wheels is heavier than cast. But the RR is narrower and that saves weight I suppose.
The new wheel has a significant weight improvement over the earlier one also.
My 19" RR wheels for the 2016 model (in fact any pre 2019 models) weighting in at 7.2kgs - even if being lighter due not having the bartubeless treatment.
You guys might be interested in this? (cross posting from the original cb500x topic, as I see many of you not really frequent there)
So I've designed a few things.
A full wrench set, containing 24, 19, 17, 14, 12, 10 (both closed and open end), 8, 6, spoke wrench (doubles as a bottle opener
All the bigger size spanners will be relieved at the corners (just as you see the 24 size right now) to provide a better grip on the bolts/nuts and avoid rounding them and also eliminate sharp corners what could theoretically start cracks.
I can also add further holes along the stems to loose weight while retaining rigidity.
The pairs are thought to work together:
- Rear axle needs 19 on the bolt and 24 on the nut, and the 10-14 can be used as an extension lever (with a self supplied 10 mm allen key) to loosen the rear axle for chain adjustment or wheel removal.
- 12-14 being separate so one can work on the oem chain adjusters
- 14 and 17 are the two ends of the suspension linkage
- I'm running spoked wheels on the X, so the tool has a wheel spoke spanner - which doubles as a bottle opener too ;-)
- added a combination part to be able to hold 10-8 and 6 mm bolts which require relative low torque.
- The 10 end of the 10-14 is open to allow adjustment of the gear linkage (might do the same with the 14 to be able to work on the mirror)
- one can use an inexpensive and light hex tool with the 19 or 17 spanners to remove the front wheel.
In case Solidworks calculates weight properly and I'm not screwing something up too much, these three cut from Stainless steeel would be about 220gr. If I'd cut the 24 size spanner from 8mm and the other two from 6mm AlMg3 alloy they should be only slightly heavier than 105 gr together.
Edit: the weight calculations look way too optimistic to me. I guess that the calculated weights are for the heaviest part, so I'd say the whole set would be about 500gr for the SS, and roughly 240gr for the alloy ones.
Also designed a special tool for the head bearing nut, as it would be more convenient if I could use my normal torque wrench to set proper bearing tension than just a plain spanner.
Open to suggestions.
this looks great. How much of it pertains to the 19s?
All of it. The change on the 19 bikes is that the front axle inner hex is not 17 but 19, and upper pinch bolts are changed from 12mm to 10mm.
Got the SW Motech engine guard mounted and it went together well. Front bars take the place of stock spacers on front engine mounts using factory bolts maintaining stock dimensions. Rear mounts drop down from hangers on each side of rear engine mount. Longer through bolt included in kit to add room for mounts on each end. Everything is very strong and you could use a lift under the plate to raise the bike.
Front mounts are both similar
Rear mounts are surprisingly thick steel
So this means that the Sw Motech actually is mounted to the frame instead of the engine ?. Do you know the weight of it ?
Yes, it mounts to frame points on the bike. At front and rear locations where the engine also mounts to the frame. I did not weigh it but the plate itself is all aluminum, and the mounting parts are steel.
So how would this fit with the SW Motech crash bars already fitted?
Yee Haw keep posting....
I’m 73. 250lb 6ft 4” and looking for something lighter. But I don’t want something that will beat me up when I have to pound out 4000 + mile round trip out to California for my my annual ride with my buddies .
Most of my riding is back road riding. I use my 650 exchallenge for my off highway traveling.
The perfect ride for me is to keep taking any road that looks smaller or twistier and then let the GPS get me to a motel!!
Just measured clearance on motech skid plate/engine guard. 7 1/4in at front and 6 3/4in at rear with bike leveled, no rider, and stock tires. Nearly identical to my vfr1200x with plate but this bike has a much shorter wheelbase for better breakover angle.
Based on the places I have taken the larger bike, I am very happy with that. May hold off on RR lift for a while.
One other note,
Running stock tires at stock pressures really exposes the limits of the suspension which I have moderately increased the preload front and rear. Lowering the pressures to 26 and 36 feels much better. With a 210lb total load.