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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Navin, Feb 5, 2019.
Thanks! That makes the E even more tempting if you don’t need the extra oomph or speed of the R.
A couple HP, carb, air cooling and the five speed. Oh my E hubs too, they are black/grey matte finish instead of the bronze anodized but still look great.
Need Front & Rear Brakes Pads for the FSEe.
Does anyone know the replacement part mfg ??
Cross ref. On RMATV, I think they are KTM but double check.
OK. Assuming the brakes are the same on the TSE, right?
I got a note from GPX confirming all the E/R/TSE GPX bikes share common brakes/pads.
Ok, so I just ordered a FSE250E, shipped to a location for a fly and ride sort of thing. What extras should I have ready for it when I build it? My list is:
KTM filter cage, filter, quality chain, perhaps some motor and fork oil. Probably tubes too.
What else? Are the bars compatible with heavy duty bark busters or a twin wall that is going to force me to replace them?
The filter is ok, it needs oil, the Ktm cage is a good idea. If your new to these clip in cages, compress the cage down to meet the latch that done have broken. My KTM and Husky have the same part and it’s not to be forced. Cage in the rear pin hole, press the cage into the face of the sealing surface, rotate clip up to hold it. That’s been working for my stuff at about 650 hours on these latest gen toolless cage retainers.
I’ve not done wrap arounds on these bars. If you bring big zip ties and safety wire look at my TSE posts I just made to firm them up. As delivered they don’t really do anything, the stock mounted flags. With reinforcement to the bars they are as good as the stock KTM stuff.
Motor oil after a good break in, yes. But fork oil? I don’t see needing that ??? The stock tubes are fine, of course adjust pressures to what you are doing and the rear has a short side wall for an 18” so maybe start a few psi higher than normal. I run 11 but it’s Fla.
Chain will last a few rides so that’s optional ?I think. Depends how far you are going off road vs street.
Post up how it goes! Good luck and enjoy!
You know they are delivery on knobs, right? What’s your ride home look like?
Thanks, sounds like good news! I may just want to focus on grease, loctite, torque wrenching and fork alignment like any other bike. Valves too, just because.
I’ll check into a taller profile tire as I need some rock protection. Maybe new bars too so I can do full bark busters.
Mine liked to loosen the header and muffler bolts. I’m not near it now to check size but you need to tighten the header/manifold nuts with an open end wrench due to the frame tube blocking it. I’m pretty sure the factory tool kit can do 99% of what you might need.
Oh, you prob saw my notes on gearing. Lol. It’s quite short stock.
Im in Michigan, so I know sand too! But this ride is going to be out west on rocky single track. Elevation is 3500-5500 where I’ll be, hopefully it will be ok for jetting. May be a little fat, but I haven’t seen many complaints from others regardless of where.
I’m probably an odd audience for this bike as I’ve been riding for over 40 years. Seems there are a few of us interested in this GPX alternative.
If you figure out the size, let me know. I’ll track down some nuts with the metal locks on them. Wonder if the header gasket is squeezing into the port? I’ll be finding out soon!!
I’m 40 years into this sport too. I’m not aging out of my MX bike yet but it’s getting closer.
Have a kickin trip!
I will check when I’m home later.
Stover lock nuts. Grabbed some in m6 and m8. They should stay on.
OK, manifold has two BOLTS going into the head. They have a 10mm head and you need an open end wrench. It isn’t coming all the way out without tilting the engine so I can’t see lock titeing it in place pre trip. Just check em now n then. The other exhaust bolts were also prone to backing out a few times over a couple hundred miles.
And with my TSE bikes I torqued spokes preride and am gad I did. I recommend that for sure.
Has anyone found a steel shift lever equivalent for this bike? I’d like to find one that’s more bendable. Maybe a crf 230f item?
Yes, 150F/230F shifter works. You can back out the header bolt, that can't be removed, and lay some thread lock on the threads with a q-tip or similar. That helped me, after it sprung a leak twice. And you would want to do fork oil in 20-30 hours. Forks aren't built well and there will be a lot of worn metal in the fluid.