+2019 GPX FSE250E Air Cooled Modern MX Mountain Goat

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Navin, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. bark sampler

    bark sampler Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    211
    Location:
    Middle of Michigan
    Horn:
    There’s a turquoise wire that connects to ground in the handlebar switch when you push the horn button. The connector the switch assembly connects into does not have a mating wire.

    So, it looks like two options:
    1) Simple way is you can run a positive wire off the grey wire to the horn positive and connect the turquoise to the ground lead on the horn. Or,
    2) More complicated, but better IMHA. First cut the green wire going to the horn switch 3/4” from the solder joint. Then jumper that to the grey on the turn signals (all inside the switch housing, new connection is the black line in the photo.) Now the turquoise wire will be positive when you push the button. You can then hook the horn negative to any ground and the horn positive to the turquoise.

    Edit: Looks like option 1 would mimic a KTM EXC and possibly more consistent on the GPX models and option 2 would be the way most Japanese bikes are wired.

    Attached Files:

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  2. ChiefOshkosh

    ChiefOshkosh Been here awhile

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    Dec 3, 2015
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    Oshkosh, WI
    @Pitster Added a Rim Lock last night (went pretty well considering I had to drill the hole) while fixing a flat rear tire and noticed the bearings are somewhat tight and then noticed the spacer was getting some rust on it.

    Couple questions then.
    1. I've changed out the tube 2-3 times so, I must be doing something wrong to allow water to get into the bearings and spacer?
    2. I'm probably going to need new rear wheel bearings. Not on RMATV. Gary do you have those in stock?

    Shawn-
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  3. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    I pack my hubs with WP grease between the seals and bearings every tire change on all my wheels. If you leave it dry it gets water from washing or puddles.
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  4. ChiefOshkosh

    ChiefOshkosh Been here awhile

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    Oh geez! That's should have been pretty obvious right. That's probably why my spacers are getting worn down...No lubrication on seals!
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  5. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    Grease the axles too!
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  6. ChiefOshkosh

    ChiefOshkosh Been here awhile

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    Yes, I had been greasing the axles...At least I got that right. Live and Learn! LOL.
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  7. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    Fill the void and after full bike assembly wipe the excess off the outer seal. That’s my routine anyways. :thumb
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  8. Cascade Adventurer

    Cascade Adventurer All the gear, no skill

    Joined:
    May 14, 2017
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    Seattle
    I wish there was a dirt bike 101 maintenance thread around here - I could use more schooling. I've heard mixed things about greasing the axle. I was under the impression that the inner race on the wheel bearings won't spin on the axle once things are tightened up. Speaking of greasing, I did take apart my linkage earlier this year, found water in the linkage needle bearings, dried and re-packed. Need to do that again soon.
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  9. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    The grease there is to keep the bearings from seizing to the axles. Nothing should be spinning but you have corrosion and whatnot without a lube.
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  10. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    When you are out of service for awhile a day spent pulling and greasing the swinger pivot bolt and steering tube is a good idea too. Not on the GPX specifically but any bike. If left dry, years later it will be zero recreation to get it out.
    Bitingdog, ChiefOshkosh and Grreatdog like this.
  11. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer Supporter

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    Apr 6, 2007
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    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    While I had the engine out getting an EXC transmission transplant, preventative swingarm pivot maintenance was what this mess was all about .........

    IMG_20140329_185400_958_zpse2290317.jpg
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  12. GlennR

    GlennR Chasin' my tail

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    Location:
    Sugar Grove or Denver, NC
    I wonder what the differences are between the XTR T4 250 LC and the FSE250E ? Is the XTR T4 250 still available or has it been replaced by the FSE250E?
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  13. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    The FSE”E” has the premium enduro Euro based chassis and supporting parts, plus a new engine design.

    I believe the XTR is Honda (CR-CRFf) based but as typical of the PP/GPX has “more”. Better brakes, adjustable/rebuildable suspension, lower price and an option of wheel sizes from a 19/16” to the full sized 21/18”

    Think of the E as a Husky FE enduro bike with a 2 valve air cooled fresh sheet thumper engine. The only thing I miss on my E is sixth gear but it’s workable.
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  14. OUTERLIMITS

    OUTERLIMITS Been here awhile

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    251
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Could not agree more. I recently serviced the swing arm and linkage on an XR400 and a DRZ400. The XR swing arm pivot that was supposed to be a nightmare was actually easy to get out. The DRZ pivot was fused in their and it took a couple of hours to get it out along with having to use a long threaded rod going thru the swing arm bolt to press it out while wacking it with a sledge hammer. It's not so much that they fuse to the swing arm bearings or frame, but rather to the steel insert in the engine where the bolt passes through it. Once I got the bolt out, it actually didn't look too corroded, but just a little corrosion goes a long way and will make those things seem like they are welded in there. Always lube the entire surface of the sing arm pivot bolt as well as the axle bolt.
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  15. bark sampler

    bark sampler Been here awhile

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    Not the most exciting mods, but here goes.

    Horn: there is a hole on the frame, right side, just above the engine. Size hole, add M6 rivnut, perfect for Tusk horn.

    Breather: I don’t like open breathers below the motor. They are usually positive crankcase pressure, but I don’t want to risk dirt or water in the motor in water crossings. There is a perfect spot for a breather filter behind the shock. Above the motor can work too but they always put out an oil mist, so this is cleaner. Uni UP-122 on the stock line, shortened about 1-1/2”.

    I was going to use a Honda oil separator to prevent oil loss at extended RPM, but I’d need to punch a hole in the air box so this will suffice.

    Attached Files:

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  16. OUTERLIMITS

    OUTERLIMITS Been here awhile

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    The breather filter idea is always a good one. I can't tell from your pics, but maybe you already did this.....I've always run the breather line to a high point and then run the filter a few inches lower than that. It will help to make it a bit more difficult for the oil vapor to escape and with the filter down lower you won't have to worry about water (from washing or stream crossings) running downhill towards the engine.
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  17. bark sampler

    bark sampler Been here awhile

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    Yup, having the inlet below the line high point is the way to go. More doesn’t hurt but only room for about 2” drop and it’s shielded well by the side cover. My pics were rotated 90 degrees when uploaded, not sure what happened, should have embedded them.
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  18. ChiefOshkosh

    ChiefOshkosh Been here awhile

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    Dec 3, 2015
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    Location:
    Oshkosh, WI
    Rear Tire Bearings? Any thoughts on size, type, etc - I'd order from RMATV.
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  19. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    I threw a set in my front wheel on the red bike as it felt a bit rough. The KTM bearings and seals were correct on that hub. I will shoot Gary a message to double check the E bikes bearings match as the hubs are slightly different.

    I usually got my bearings at a local bearing supply in NJ but haven’t found one close by in Fla. If you check the Yellow Pages you might have a place you can walk in, and they usually have an inside line on quality level and are less expensive too.
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  20. bark sampler

    bark sampler Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Middle of Michigan
    Depending on what @Navin finds out, the RMATV kits (part number BSK-MR-01 Edit: sounds like spacer in this may not fit!!) that include the center piece between the bearings may be the hot setup. Stock is steel, kit is aluminum.

    Add the alloy axle spacers (MR13-WSP-KIT) for another $10 and it’s probably the best weight savings per $.

    If we don’t get solid answers, I may just pull my wheel and measure. These are good wear parts to have as spares.
    Navin likes this.