2019+ ktm 690 enduro

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by azur, Sep 24, 2018.

  1. RoundOz

    RoundOz Plenty of seasoning

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    Please do follow up on the thread - a failing start relay after so few miles is good knowledge to have, especially when carrying a spare does not take up much real estate. Destructive investigation is always nice to see if contacts are burnt etc.
  2. bikerjim2000

    bikerjim2000 Tree Top

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    The positive cable going to the starter has another bolt / connection above the the attachment to the solenoid under the rubber connecter AT the solenoid. One inmate found that to be loose.
  3. Kerschbaumer

    Kerschbaumer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    528
    Location:
    Squamish BC
    Did a bit of poking

    With key off I have 12.5v at the battery and at solenoid going into the battery, with key on I have 12.2v (presumably because fuel pump is running). Far as I know that is too low

    When I put multimeter on the outgoing cable I also get 12.2v - which tells me the solenoid is working correctly.

    I suspect my problem is battery too low to fire the starter. I am now putting batttery on charger and will report back.

    Begs the question why is my battery so low - it has been several weeks since I rode the bike and perhaps somehow I left a key on or some accessories are draining it. Thing is I did a reasonable amount of riding on Sunday which should have charged it back up so maybe my stator or reg/rectifier is toast???
    bikerjim2000 likes this.
  4. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!! Supporter

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    More likely that the battery is fading. Check voltage at idle. Should be 14ish
    bikerjim2000 and zoomdude57 like this.
  5. AbnormalWrench

    AbnormalWrench Adventurer

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    If you have 12.2V at the starter cable coming out of the starter solenoid (assuming you are hitting the starter button to get that reading), and the engine isn't turning over, then your battery isn't the problem. You either have a loose connection at the starter, bad ground or bad starter. The starter creates a large draw when it is working correctly, and the voltage should drop significantly more than 12.2V.

    12.5V static, 12.2V with the key on, is perfectly normal for a decent battery.
    bikerjim2000 likes this.
  6. smackyface

    smackyface Boldly going wherever Supporter

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    Just one more data point that 12.2ish is normal for my bike, fwiw. I’ve run the battery down to around 11.5 and it started right up with no hesitation.
  7. Kerschbaumer

    Kerschbaumer Been here awhile

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    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    528
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    Squamish BC
    SOLVED - it was the connection under the rubber boot going into the starter. It wasnt loose but the cable to mounting tab must not have had a good connection - there was a fair bit of old loctite around there. Took it apart and sanded the contacts and fired right up - thanks so much for the help all of you! This forum is why I try to fix everything myself so when something shits the bed in Mongolia I will know how to diagnose.
  8. Kerschbaumer

    Kerschbaumer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    528
    Location:
    Squamish BC
    View attachment 3192626 Onto the next problem - Check engine light is on - went to dealer to pull the code but their main tech cant look at it for 3 weeks. Error code is P0500 Speed Signal - General Malfunction, possible cause - error in ABS control unit. Anyone have this come up yet? I have the KTM ABS dongle installed. I guess first thing is to remove the dongle?

    View attachment 3192625
  9. bikerjim2000

    bikerjim2000 Tree Top

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    Ride it! The low voltage situation may have caused this CEL.
    :beer
  10. blackSP

    blackSP Im 'in orbita ponendum simulat

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    Some pics from the a 150 km off road ride in Brabant, a southern province in the Netherlands. Should do that more often but 200 freeway kilometers always kill my shoulder.
    242038593_2972355129751095_510424195343052846_n.jpg

    242190120_2972355183084423_5818680355372574220_n.jpg

    242154152_2972355139751094_5547280841124799461_n.jpg
    ADV67, mumu37, oyvind and 8 others like this.
  11. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    General errors can be created by just spinning the rear wheel too much. Keep riding it. About three heat cycles will clear it.
  12. Kerschbaumer

    Kerschbaumer Been here awhile

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    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    528
    Location:
    Squamish BC
    Interesting - bike hasnt been ridden much this year - maybe she is complaining. Dealer said there were several errors- they cleared them all but this one came back.
  13. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    These bikes although electronic are still petty simple. If they start good hot or cold. Brake good and you can turn ABS on and off. Accelerate good and shift fine there’s nothing to worry about imo and like others have said just ride it. Most lights clear themselves based on either miles, time, or engine cycles. If it throws a light and runs like crap then I’d start worrying. If everything is good and the light bothers someone, put a piece of black tape over the light and deal with it next scheduled service. At least that’s what I’d do.
    bikerjim2000 likes this.
  14. Rangeflyer

    Rangeflyer Adventurer

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    Mar 4, 2020
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    El Paso
    Thanks much for the info. Got the OBD2 adapter coming, have fuel filters on hand. However, the small fuel filter quick disconnect is impossible to reach! I can get one finger on it from the side, but no way is there enough hose to pull it far enough out to service, why would they do that? Mine is located directly behind the seat pull ring, no space at all. Suggestions?
    Thanks.
  15. Rangeflyer

    Rangeflyer Adventurer

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    El Paso
    Got a new problem, while removing the airbox which was necessary to replace the rear brake light switch, I loosened the wrong clamp and succeeded in separating the airbox intake hose at the airbox. That sucker is press fitted I guess, and I cannot get it to stretch back around the flange. any suggestion, or should I just purchase a rade garage airbox kit?
  16. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    You're doing something wrong. Pull the whole thing out, loosen the clamp and it slides back in.
  17. Rangeflyer

    Rangeflyer Adventurer

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    El Paso
    lYes, I did something wrong, loosened the wrong clamp, pulled the box out of the intake tube taking it off. It's a really tight squeeze to get back on, and I don't have the strength in my hands I used to. At least my brake light comes on now with the rear brake, and I was able to change the itty bitty gas filter.
  18. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    I've had to replace that IBF on the side of the road. Lucky it was an 2018 and somewhat easier.

    Guys, replace it early, like 3-4000 miles, then every 10k. Probably won't need to do it on the road.
  19. Kato_Nerd

    Kato_Nerd n00b

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    Sep 18, 2021
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    Newcastle
    Hi All,

    First time poster but long-time reader. Great forum and I've picked up a lot of tips through all the posts!

    Just wondering if anyone has successfully disabled the QS on the 2021 Euro5 690 Enduro? I'm not a fan due to the slight overrev it seems to do when up shifting manually. I like using the QS on downshifting but when upshifting manually I don't like it.

    I have looked through all the posts and found by activating the clutch switch with a cable tie that it does disable the QS but on the 2021 Euro model after closing the switch manually I then went for a test ride and the bike threw an F3 code. The up and downshifting manually was fantastic during the test ride without the QS but then the F3 error code came up. I've read that the clutch switch when closed also enables an idle map hence the error code when I went for a test ride.

    The bike went in for its first service and they could not disable it via the KTM diagnostics tool but they have emailed KTM headoffice for information. I suspect the answer will be no it can't.

    I also read that @Pooz did a relay mod to disable the idle map but I'm unsure if this still applies to the 2021 year.

    Is there a simple way to get rid of the QS? Maybe at the sensor end??

    Hopefully, someone has a solution?

    Cheers
  20. spartanman

    spartanman regret minimizer

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    Remove the battery before you remove the air box. Makes it much easier to reinstall the air box.
    zoomdude57 likes this.