2up to TDF (San Francisco to Ushuaia)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by sp4ce, Nov 8, 2008.

  1. RockemRdr

    RockemRdr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    415
    Location:
    Out West
    ...there must be more. Awesome RR!!!
  2. damasovi

    damasovi Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,136
    Location:
    Ensenada, Baja California
    Dear friends, I, like many others am having a tough economical time, I already have scale down on everything, I even had to sell a motorcycle to cover some bills and most of my dreams of riding the world have been sent to the "not going to happen EVER trash can"…:(: then I met you!!<o:p></o:p> :clap:bow

    Your RR has giving me hope, has giving me the desire and the ability to say YES I CAN,YES I WILL one day! and for the first time I see and believe I can do it 2 up!<o:p></o:p>:raabia

    Btw your pictures are so impressive, I was trying to pic the best one, so after many hours I will just download the ones I like, I just hope my hard drive can store all of them!!!<o:p></o:p>

    Thanks you for the pics, stories and dreams. You have inspire me.<o:p></o:p>

    Damasovi <o:p></o:p>
  3. obsidian

    obsidian Scared of the dark..

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    837
    Location:
    Currently in Canada.
    Nina and Trevor,

    Thanks for sharing your trip with us! Read through the post and lurked your smugmug for the extra photos. :D

    Would be very interested in what the ball park costs were in the end.
  4. sp4ce

    sp4ce Orange Invader

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    431
    Location:
    State of Grace
    The final hurdle of our journey was shipping the bike home from Buenos Aires. Following the recommendation of several people, we enlisted the help of Sandra at dakarmotos.com. Sandra is a wonderful person and was very helpful answering our questions and assisting with the logistics of shipping. She found a shipping agent and got us a reservation. Over the next few days we completed a scavenger hunt across BA for some things required for shipping - notarized photocopies of all relevant documents, USD 1600 in cash (harder to obtain than you might think). (As it turns out, these are not actually necessary. See the end of this post for some shipping tips.)

    On the morning of our appointment we rode to the airport and who should we run in to but Brendan. We had met Brendan briefly several weeks earlier on route 40 in Patagonia. He was riding his KLR from British Columbia to Ushuaia and coincidentally was shipping his bike back at the exact same time as us.

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472708530_npJhW-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472708530_npJhW-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472707445_k4W6A-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472707445_k4W6A-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    It was nice to have someone to hang out with while dealing with shipping. While talking, we discovered that Brendan had ridden for a while with two other sets of riders that we had met at different times - Pierre and Celine who we met on the street in San Jose, Costa Rica and Martin and Lorena who we met in Mendoza, Argentina and then later visited in Necochea, Argentina. Small world.

    After waiting around for hours for a palette to be delivered for my bike, we eventually got to work and broke the bike down to be secured.

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472709486_qnrZ9-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472709486_qnrZ9-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472710395_7Dirs-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472710395_7Dirs-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472711353_XnqKF-A-LB"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472711353_XnqKF-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    At some point, Nina got bored and found a little friend

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472707701_nfzFo-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472707701_nfzFo-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    Our shipping agent, Sergio from Navicon, handled all the paper work and a customs agent asked me a few quick questions before the package got wrapped up.

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472712185_otb4d-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472712185_otb4d-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472713009_JDuqz-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472713009_JDuqz-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    <a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472713758_H3mco-A-LB" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472713758_H3mco-M.jpg" alt="" /></a>

    After 17,000 miles, Katie M's work was done and we waved goodbye to her as she was whisked away on a forklift. We accompanied Sergio to the office to pay and jumped in a cab with Brendan back to city. Mission accomplished!



    A few notes on shipping for anyone else doing it:

    - You are probably best off dealing directly with a shipping agent. Sandra uses the most conservative, most restrictive set of shipping requirements in order to guarantee there aren't any problems. This will cost you extra time and money. At her direction, we found a notary and paid for notarized photocopies of all our documents. Brendan just brought the originals to the airport and his shipping agent (All Cargo) made copies on the spot. The shipping agents we dealt with (Navicon, All Cargo) spoke excellent English and were extremely helpful, so unless you are shipping a bike in to the country or you can't be present for shipping, there isn't really a need for an intermediary.

    - Break the bike down. Assembled the bike would have been a 500 kilo shipment and would have cost USD 1600. Broken down it was a 300 kilo shipment and cost USD 1200. Pricing is complicated and probably even varies by carrier, but you will almost certainly save by breaking the bike down. The packers at the airport were extremely helpful with this.

    - Explore payment options. We spent a lot of time, effort, and bank fees getting US dollars to pay for shipping (we were told this was required). It turned out pesos would have been fine as well. A bank transfer arranged in advance would have been even better.
  5. Nina

    Nina Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    148
    Oh, and whatever they tell you, don't go in the morning. We arrived at 10am, as instructed. The palette did not. At 12.30, everyone went to lunch for an hour and a half, so we didn't even get started until 2.
  6. tmotten

    tmotten Lefthand ride Dutchy

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,705
    Location:
    Calgary
    Bloody hell guys, that's cheap. Sucks that it's finished thugh eh. Took me a few weeks to get used to being away from the bike. So to help my sorrows, I'm picking up a DRZ400E this Saturday. We picked up a cheap TTR for Mars last Saturday. I feel it's really helping getting over the emotional damage.
    Shame I left all our gear on the bikes though. They're still on the docks in Lima incidentally.

    I feel like I've been ripped.:(:
  7. sp4ce

    sp4ce Orange Invader

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    431
    Location:
    State of Grace
    Re-entry is a bitch isn't it? Congrats on the new rides, sounds like the perfect antidote.

    What's up with your bikes, why haven't they shipped yet? That really blows. Guess you can always use it as an excuse to buy new gear, though :evil
  8. tmotten

    tmotten Lefthand ride Dutchy

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,705
    Location:
    Calgary
    Well, we do need to do our bit for the economy. :evil

    Bloody shipping mate. It's a dodgy industry. Before the bikes had to be at the container company 5 days prior to loading, than it becomes 7 days and they missed it. So it all got delayed 3 weeks. May have to fly back and kick some ass.........
  9. bananaman

    bananaman transcontimental

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,978
    Good job on the shipping!

    My shipping experience was similar, except that Sandra had found a way for me to save $300. I paid extra to have it all done with. Sandra's way was cheaper, but it involved waiting a few days longer. I needed to get home for two reasons: my kids needed me, and I was going to die of an heart attack from eating so much parilla!
  10. Thornado

    Thornado Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    149
    Hola from Argentina!

    We just finished Bolivia a few days back and had a very similar crash to yours on the "road" to the border. In our case at least, it's the damn road graders! By smoothing out the road, you can't see the deep sand.

    I'd been warned about this from fellow riders going north, and I still fell for it. We were actually catching up to the grader, less than a mile from the Bolivian immigration outpost. I had caught the grader, and just tapped the rear brake when boom, I was eating sand on the shoulder. I looked at my tracks and it went from no real track to 3 inch deep tire impressions shortly followed by a bike in the sand shoulder.

    Glad your shipping home process has gone smoothly, I'm blocking it from my mind!
  11. sloans

    sloans Buffalo Wings

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    16
    Great RR. Would like any other tips if you have them. The Runnin' Home RR is up. We pick up our bikes in Saintiago next week and will ride south then back up to Oregon. Congradulations on an AMAZING adventure you two had. :freaky
  12. Nina

    Nina Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    148
    <p>Although we have some videos to upload and some lists and costs to compile, this is officially our last trip update :(</p>
    <p>Brendan made the most of his last day, whilst Trevor and I made the most of the sunlight for some final photos.</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472715848_dY5iP" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472715848_dY5iP-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472715102_fKecr" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472715102_fKecr-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>And of course, no Buenos Aires report is complete without the obligatory pictures of Recoleta cemetary.</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472716834_Mz5i4" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472716834_Mz5i4-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472716389_rHGmo" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472716389_rHGmo-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472718283_yFtyY" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472718283_yFtyY-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472718771_ruBGa" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472718771_ruBGa-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472719615_oaJxt" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472719615_oaJxt-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>Trevor said he has lived in NY apartments smaller than some of these tombs. For scale, see him peering in the door!</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472720399_6D8Gk" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472720399_6D8Gk-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472699435_iczFa" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472699435_iczFa-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472699962_9x89i" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472699962_9x89i-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472701109_ZNsep" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472701109_ZNsep-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>I could have spent all day in here, but hunger pangs gnawed at us and we retired for lunch and beer. (Trevor almost made us change restaurant until he discovered the steak on the menu). We spent the rest of the day wandering the streets and lazing in the parks where Trevor and Brendan watched the scantily-clad Porteños.</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472702331_wtzrf" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472702331_wtzrf-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472703115_ZRKxL" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472703115_ZRKxL-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>I was happy that our meandering took us past the giant Floralis Generic. This “generic flower” sculpture is made from steel and aluminium. It weighs more than 18 tons. The coolest thing about it though, is that just like a real flower, its petals open in the morning and close at night.</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472703807_ztfe4" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472703807_ztfe4-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472704557_5FGFW" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472704557_5FGFW-L.jpg"/></a>
    (See the skyline for a sense of scale. The wall around the lake it's in is probably 3 metres tall!)</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472705233_s9aDk" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472705233_s9aDk-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#472706392_WcS5y" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/472706392_WcS5y-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>We chose the Standard for our last meal because Trevor fancied steak for a change, and we had been raving about it to Brendan. We were joined by our neighbour, Anthony, who had kindly loaned us his parking space in Palermo. It was a fitting final night.</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#P-19-15" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769284_RtnF3-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>The steak is 800 grams and 3 inches tall. It's hard to show the size of it:</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769267_Z9MWa" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769267_Z9MWa-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>but easy to show how rare it is:</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769271_dwmiP"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769271_dwmiP-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769273_GMUQx" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769273_GMUQx-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>Final steak picture of the trip, I promise (blame Brendan!)</p>
    <p>We spent our final day wandering the revamped Puerto Madero neighbourhood (which reminded me of the docklands in London).</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769293_eMmqg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769293_eMmqg-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769333_ZnZL9" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769333_ZnZL9-M.jpg"/></a>
    (click for full effect)</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769316_rRajp" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769316_rRajp-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769325_4GCMq" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769325_4GCMq-M.jpg"/></a>
    (Santiago Calatrava's oddly-named "Bridge of the Woman"!)</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769482_ruwKK" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769482_ruwKK-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769350_vwdNL" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769350_vwdNL-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769382_GgZxx" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769382_GgZxx-M.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769380_RUAA8" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769380_RUAA8-L.jpg"/></a></p>
    <p>We are definitely sad to be leaving all this "behind" :(</p>
    <p><a href="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/gallery/7134111_rzi6p#475769336_7EnmT" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone" src="https://sp4ce.smugmug.com/photos/475769336_7EnmT-L.jpg"/></a></p>
  13. pdedse

    pdedse paraelamigosincero

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,066
    "scantily-clad Porteños" ?!?
  14. Nina

    Nina Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    148
    Hmm, blame my bad Spanish, or maybe that was just me!
  15. 990S Pilot

    990S Pilot Is this round trip?

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    232
    Location:
    The wilds of central Texas
    Well, I've said it before but it bears repeating: thanks so much to Nina and Trevor for sharing their journey with us. I've been following this one from the very beginning and the narrative and photography have been wonderful.

    Safe travels home to you both.
  16. Neversurfaced

    Neversurfaced Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    Redondo Beach, Ca. USA
    Great report & nice pictures. Hell of a trip! :thumb

    Trevor - Have a chance to try any Cerveza Baguales whilst down in Puerto Natales or Torres del Paine? :freaky
  17. pdedse

    pdedse paraelamigosincero

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,066
    Aah, I was just expecting to see some photos!!
    :eek1 :lol3
  18. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,368
    Location:
    in front of Mare Nostrum
    So if I hadn't yet any wish to visit SAm, your thread made me now eager to start packing !:D
    Already bought some books. that's the cheapest :evil
    Thank you so much for this great teasing !
    Cheers !
    /tm
  19. Nina

    Nina Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    148
  20. Moncho11

    Moncho11 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Reno, NV
    Man! today I probably had one of the most exciting days I've ever had at work, not to mention it took me part of the night to read the whole thread also! From battling "el nino" riding Colombia and loving "la ciudad de la eterna primavera" to probably beeing able to change a fuel filter blind folded... riding to el arbol de piedra... driving cows to the border of extinction in Argentina.. penguins... Shit you guys saw it all!

    Thanks for the great report... puts LWR to shame!