3 Bad Hombres go south of the border to Copper Canyon, Mexico

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Yinzer Moto, Mar 24, 2019.

  1. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Day 11 video

    I know I keep saying it but full screen for the best viewing. The scenery is unbelievable.

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  2. Chabochi

    Chabochi Adventurer

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    Yeah it's the place up on the hill before the tunnel, brick house with a 6 room lodge. There is a wrought iron gate off the main road you go in. It's been so hit and miss lately that I have a family member staying there, occasionally get a backpacker or motos coming through. Maybe next time!
  3. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    I will be back. I’ll be sure to hit you up ahead of time. Thank You!
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  4. crashkorolyk

    crashkorolyk just happy to ride

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    Brilliant trip,really enjoyed the R.R. and pictures,thanks for sharing!
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  5. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    +1 on this. One of the best Copper Canyons reports I've seen.
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  6. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Thank you. I have done multiple trip reports on various rides and they always turned into a disorganized train wreck. I wanted to try and make this one a little more organized and helpful to people traveling to Mexico for the first time, like we were.
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  7. LtCrashDan

    LtCrashDan Been here awhile

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    A bit delayed, I still owe day 11. I forgot to mention the day before

    I woke up this morning and went outside and took a picture to send to a coworker to let him know I am also now the owner of a Harley Davidson:
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    Oil has started sneaking past our field repair, it would get worse over the next few days, but luckily (or maybe not luckily) we only had 2 days of riding left.

    The springs we went to were called Recowata. It seems people typically drive to here, and I read some reviews stating the road is extremely sketchy. I don't know that I would want to drive a car on this road. At one point we passed 4 crosses on the side, 2 big ones and 2 small ones and Jason and I mentioned on the comms how eerie that was. The funny part about the negotiating the rate is, when we got to the bottom a guy asked to see my ticket. I looked at it before putting it back in my pocket and it read estudiante $20 (so the guy pocketed 20 each too and gave us a student rate).

    The spot itself though was really cool:
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    I had seen the Cascada de Rukiraso on the map, so we decided to try and find it as we were so close. It took a couple side paths, but we would eventually find it. It was a pretty cool canyon to see. I snagged a couple pics of the falls, and a picture of the Canyon facing the other direction:
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    and of course one with the bikes:
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    I had only plan to ride part of the day and head back, after the falls, but the other guys convinced me to keep going. It did end up being a really fun riding day. The funny part about me getting ahead, is locals were working on the road. I stopped and in my poor spanish asked if there were 2 Motorcycles that had passed through. The lady responded Si and pointed foward, so I rode for another 15 minutes at a slower pace not seeing any tracks. I couldn't help but remember other ride reports where locals will say, yes this is the road you need.... We continued along the top of the valley to a town that only seemed to have a school and a couple small farms with fruit bearing tree's. The cool part about this town, is you could pretty much see EL Divisadero on the other side, at least where the eco park is that we visited.
    The following picture I have listed as getting this day, which I think may have been a small village on the way, if it wasn't from the previous day. From this spot, I remember we saw a pretty large looking fire burning in the distance, it was very dry the whole time:

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    The rock formations in this area were really cool too. There were a lot of mushroom style rocks which unfortunately I didn't get a pic of, but got some on video. I did get some cool ones across the canyon though:
    [​IMG]

    We then got back to creel to do a little touristy shopping, and had dinner at a restaurant a lot of locals were eating at. I may have gotten my two restaurants mixed up, and it was actually Restaurant Cabana this night, and Montados La Sierra the night before. I had a really good meal (possibly my favorite dinner) with steak, guac, beans, peppers, and some enchilada sauce, and I got a side of garlic mushrooms. Also I got my favorite beer of the other trip. It was from Cerveceria copper and it was a porter. I would probably rate this beer in my favorite top 10:

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  8. LtCrashDan

    LtCrashDan Been here awhile

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    I should also give an update to Dirt Racks. They have offered to replace or refund the racks that broke on their site. Their website does though clearly offer a lifetime guarantee.
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  9. LtCrashDan

    LtCrashDan Been here awhile

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    My Day's 7 and 8 video, not too much it was mostly fast paced boring stuff I got besides an endless hill climb heading towards Uruachi:
  10. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Day 12 550KM

    Creel to Ojinaga

    The Beginning of the end...


    Day 12 GPS.png


    We were up early again and packing the bikes for our long ride back up to Ojinaga. Creel is pretty high in elevation and the bikes were usually covered in frost. We jockeyed them around into the sun. Aired the tires up a bit more for what we thought was going to be an asphalt ride.

    Danny's Harley/Yamaha seems to be leaking a bit worse these days but it just has to make one more day.

    IMG_5948.jpg

    Not too far into the day, the roads turned to dirt, it was pretty nicely maintained for the most part. There was maybe 10 miles that necked down to a narrow rocky section. These more populated roads are were we saw more odd police and possibly cartel activity. I stopped at one point and was waiting for Danny and a couple trucks coming the opposite direction stopped and started trying to ask me questions. They had radios on their shoulders. Then the guy noticed and commented on the camera on my helmet and took off. I don't know what he was up to but when he saw the camera, he decided it was time to go.

    A little further up the road, on the main highway into Chihuahua, we encountered our first police road block. They waived Danny and I though but then everyone started yelling and pointing when Ron rolled up. Fortunately, they were concerned about the truck that was being him.

    Then we saw what VTbeemer described as a Cartel convoy, 6-8 nicer pickup trucks, driving in formation.

    We rolled into Ojinaga around 5pm. I was concerned about the amount of mud on the bikes and the possibility that US border patrol might want them cleaned. I have had that issue at the Canadian border but did not know if they cared much down here.

    We hit a couple car washes until we found one that was willing to just do a quick light wash on the bikes for $100. The other thought we wanted the bikes spotless and wanted $300 for all 3.

    IMG_5949.jpg

    Then we hit a liquor store for a few bottles of tequila.

    57492036788__A9EF7624-F887-4326-8A31-A9B1F649D7DF.jpg

    There are some good ones there and one bad one.

    Crossing back across to the US is easy. First stop at the drive up booth, right when you enter the secure area and cancel your TVIP. If you used a credit card, you are done and will get the refund in a few days. If you paid with cash, you go inside to the cashier and they will give you cash back. Then stop at the Migration desk and cancel your migration paperwork there.

    Next is a toll booth to cross the Rio Grande bridge. 13 pesos for motorcycles.

    Back in the US! it was 6pm south of the border but is now 8pm in Texas. We were asked a few questions by the border patrol and I claimed my Tequila. I did not have to pay tax because the liquor control lady was gone for the day. Then we hit subway for a sandwich to go and found some beer at the gas station. Then over to the Loma Paloma RV Park for the night. They have a little clubhouse where there is laundry and a game room. As well as a shower. We asked permission to just sleep on the floor and they were fine with that. That saved us the work of having to set our tents up.

    We chowed down on our sandwiches and talked about how much fun we had over the last 2 weeks. Well into the early morning hours.
  11. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Day 13, driving home.

    We got up and loaded up. Ron was riding back to El Paso TX, so he had another long riding day ahead of him. We got the truck loaded and were on the road by 10am or so. The highway patrol had different plans for us, a short way out of town.

    IMG_5955.jpg

    7mph over the speed limit. He was just fishing for bigger offenses. Danny's insurance card was expired and of course we did not have cell service to prove coverage. So he got a ticket for that. a few miles down the road, we had coverage again. :fpalm

    The drive went smoothly until then next morning when the dashboard warned of a low tire. We found the object but decided to leave it in place and just air the tire up and finish the next 7 hours back home.

    IMG_5958.jpg

    I put a plug in when we got home, i am glad we waited. The cords in this tire made plugging a little tough and my larger plug kit at home worked better.
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  12. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    I would like to add a few words about Mexico.

    Crossing the border: it is intimidating but the people are helpful. Have a couple copies of your registration, title, and passport. If you don't have the copies, you can make them there. Budget a bit of time, it took us about 2 hours.

    Not all businesses have signs. Gas and food is available almost anywhere. Even the smallest villages. We had a 1 gallon rotopax on the back of the bike and never needed it. I dont think we ever went more than 150 miles without fuel. Usually it was well under 100 miles. We dumped our rotopax in our bikes around day 9. It was night and day difference in the bike handling. Having that 6 pounds of fuel hanging off the back of the bike really effected the handling negatively. The empty container and mounting hardware weigh a good bit too.

    Like I mentioned earlier in the report, the $ sign is used in front of their prices, that took me 3 days to figure out.

    For me, the best way to go for the cell phone was to buy the SIM card for 200 pesos, I had pretty good phone coverage and data worked in the larger towns.

    In the hotel rooms, look for a little rubber cover for the shower drain, they do not have P traps on their showers and the room will fill with sewer gas without it. We had one extremely stinky room without it. I remember seeing it sitting on the opposite side of the room.

    IMG_5947.jpg


    Lastly, everyone is extremely friendly and patient with us. They would always try and talk with us and figure out what we needed. I only spent a couple weeks of studying Spanish, a couple extra weeks would have made a larger difference. DuoLingo is a great, free, learning app.
  13. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Bike damage report: Danny had 5 or 6 flats. We never found a cause. I know what pinch flats look like, they looked more like punctures. I checked the tire many times. I got one front flat.

    Dannys racks took a beating and the mounting points kept loosening up. The mounting points on Dannys subframe for the rear racks broke off or were getting ready to break off.

    I bought the AltRider Hemisphere rackless bags for this trip in order to eliminate my racks, they worked great. I really liked that I could have the bags off of the bike to take into the hotel room within a few seconds. Putting them back on took a little more effort but not more than 2-3 min.

    Danny has a hole in his engine case that is patched with JB weld. It will need to be removed and patched a little better but should be fine for the life of the bike.

    I lost a bolt securing my muffler. I think it was missing for quite a while, I could hear a little rattle but checked my bike many times and never found it.

    Rons bike was perfect, it worked so flawlessly that I don't think he even need to add gas. He would just act like he added gas just not to make us jealous.
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  14. snobum

    snobum Adventurer Supporter

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    Great post.
    Thanks for sharing your route, video, and commentary.
    Your series has a couple of us thinking about doing a similar trip next year (on ADV bikes).
  15. ADVer

    ADVer Been here awhile

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    Awesome report. Enjoyed it. Thanks for taking the time and effort!
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  16. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    I would highly recommend a 250cc type of bike. I felt it was prefect. I would even consider one of the 125cc 4 strokes that all the locals were riding around on if I knew the suspension would be decent. Somewhere in this report, I mention about single digit average speeds. The 250cc bikes felt big in that terrain, I could not imagine wrestling a true ADV type bike.
  17. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    One last thing, I spent roughly $550 US dollars for nearly 2 weeks time in Mexico. Hotels, Gas, Restaurants, Beer and Tequila. The border crossing had roughly $100 in fees that we did not get back. Full coverage bike insurance cost about $150, no one ever checked if I had insurance.
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  18. radmann10

    radmann10 Derf Supporter

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    Thanks guys, great RR with useful info on places not often covered!
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  19. dano619

    dano619 Long timer Supporter

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    Great report, loved the videos!!
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  20. Trailer Rails's wife

    Trailer Rails's wife Is that what you're wearing? Supporter

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    The videos with the commentary really took this report to another level. I love commentary with pictures but I think now commentary with video is even better. The videos for Day 5 and Day 11 were my favorite. Something about that soft, melancholy music in the video from Day 11 not only fit well with the landscape you were riding on, but also that happy but maudlin feeling one gets (just me?) when it's the last day of a trip. Well done.