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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by 65 Flathead, Oct 10, 2009.
deleted for irrelevence
How do you get 25%? Do the math.
Two 5 foot sections of resistance wire connected in series will have exactly the same resistance/wattage as one 10 foot piece.
Two 5 foot sections of resistance wire connected in parallel will have exactly 1/2 the resistance and twice wattage as one 5 foot piece.
Therefore, a pair of gloves rated at 15w each (in parallel configuration) will render 7.5w each when connected together in series.
"Modulating it down with a turn signal flasher *and* series and parallel switch" will be difficult to manage since the turn signal flasher interval is not a constant. The flash speed depends on the amount of resistance it is acting upon, hence the "hyperflash" that occurs when one bulb goes out or when you replace an incandescent bulb with a LED unit. Switching from series to parallel would affect the duration of the "flash." I also design my heated gear with the "overkill" method but that assumes 100% power will be too hot to be utilized. $70 for a pulse width modulator like the Warm and Safe HeatTroller is money well spent.
I use two loops in each of my gloves that are hard wired in parallel. How would you do the wiring to be able to turn off one loop? Would you isolate each loop with a separate switch for each one?
[EDIT] You are correct. 25%. My mistake.
I know this isn't exactly the same, but has anyone tried the Carbon Heated Tape ?
It's probably more expensive, I know, but wondering if it would be worth trying out.
yes, it works great. Second season starting soon.
Here's a friendly reminder: ADEQUATE CIRCUIT PROTECTION IS GOOD!
Rather than rewire my old jacket liner, I made a new one and let an inmate on another forum have it with the understanding he would thoroughly check all the connections and insulation. He did but . . . OOPS! :eek1
I am considering adding an inline fuse on the jacket liner itself. Careful guys.
Have to be a reg'd member to view the post on wrist twisters.
The pics speak louder than the words.
Bump.It's gettin a little cool down south, finally.
I have done my first iteration using silicon covered wires. I didn't like the end result. kind of bulky and delicate when wearing it.. besides two years ago, when I finished the first model, I was like 25 lb less "big boned" than today
I am going to give it a try using Carbon tape this time... wish me luck.
"Modulating it down with a turn signal flasher *and* series and parallel switch" will be difficult to manage since the turn signal flasher interval is not a constant. The flash speed depends on the amount of resistance it is acting upon, hence the "hyperflash" that occurs when one bulb goes out or when you replace an incandescent bulb with a LED unit.
- False. For my DIY controller I use a heavy duty (30amp) ELECTRONIC flasher, which has the same FIXED rate regardless of the load. AB $10 for the flasher, not particularly inexpensive though.
Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but because of winter I am looking to do a DIY on it. Have a few questions:
1-I have an old heating blanket laying around, can I use strand of wires from it in my vest?
2-I am planning to connect battery tender connector with one end of the strand and other strand to the other connector and simply hook it up with battery with an inline fuse?
3-Instead of inline fuse, can a thermal cut off switch be used?
Is above set up too simple or I should be doing something else too? Thanks for the help :)
Save yourself some grief. The simplest material to work with is teflon coated 30awg copper wire. It is usually rated at 0.1 ohm per foot so you'll need a ton of it.
Do the math:
VOLTS / OHMS = AMPS
VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS
I usually assume 13.8 volts in my calculations. If you use a 30 foot strand of 30awg copper your resistance will be 3 ohms.
13.8 volts / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps
13.8 volts x 4.6 amps = 63.48 watts
You can also experiment with carbon fiber braid but you'll have to insulate it yourself and resistance specs aren't usually published so there may be some trial and error involved.
I have gotten some higher quality sae plugs on amazon recently. Look for the ones with 16ga wire. Avoid the plugs in the trailer light section of the auto supply - they are junk. That said, everything else is 2.5mm x 5.5mm coaxial barrel plugs these days. You can buy the plugs from Warm and Safe or cut up extension cords from Cycle Gear. And do yourself a favor and spring for a bona fide pulse width modulator controller like the Warm and Safe Heat-troller. Every other seemingly inexpensive option is an exercise in futility. I don't do diy threads anymore, nobody went to the ER or anything but it hasn't been pretty. Just pm me if you need a hand.
@KEN PHENIX , thank you for the help. Sent you a PM.
Thanks to this post I have electrified every liner on every jacket I own. Removable or not. What a treat not having to wear extra non OEM liners...
Have we graduated to 7.4v rechargeables yet?
You can now get decent packs with built into battery controllers from China so I’m seriously considering. Mostly for glove and sock purposes....
The only parts of me that get cold when I ride are my feet, knees, hands, sometimes my back and right in the front of me where my jacket zipper is. There doesn't seem to be a good way to insulate that area. I have several flaps on the inside and outside of my winter gear that seals and covers my jacket zipper but I seem to get cold air through there. With battery tech, we may no longer be required to plug into the bike for heated gear. The only issue is there are more batteries to charge. I guess they could be charged on the bike when not in use and traveling.
Used my homemade jacket for a a freezing weekend-trip.
Totally a life saver =)