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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by inroads, Jun 11, 2020.
Thanks thats a great deal. I think I will list mine for $6500.
Mind if I ask why you didn’t like it?
Woohoo! Just got an e-mail from Seat Concepts that my foam kit shipped today. Ordered back in June!
Updated with YT link, for those who don't do FB.
It’s a fantastic bike. I am just downsizing bikes and sticking to trails and dirt roads. I would recommend it to anyone who enjoys tech, comfort, and value!
It's surprising to see them selling cheaply, they are all but unobtainable here at the new dealer MSRP plus whatever the dealer wants to tack on.
In my quest to fit all my tools and stuff under the seat, I noticed that the slot in front of the battery is prime real estate for a thin tool bag. The only issue is that there is a horizontal bar in the way that makes it hard to insert tools in that area.
I designed a replacement bar that should be just as strong. I did FEM analysis on both tension (pulling it "longer") and the force of the seat pushing on it, and this design is just as strong as the stock bar. I had to make it a little thicker, 2.7mm from 2.0mm, and make it wider. It seems to fit great. I'm going to get it laser cut in the next few days.
I looked at that also. I'm also looking at the charging system to try to determine how happy/unhappy it might be with a lithium battery. I'm contemplating making my own, I have a few nice 12V LiFe BMS' and a lot of 26650 LiFePO4 batteries left from when I planned to build big batteries for my stupid motorhome project. I opted for two modules from a Tesla Model S leaving me with lots of cells and no other ideas of what to do with them. I do worry about the charging rate and low internal resistance of Li batteries. No point in toasting either the regulator or the alternator.
I wonder if commercial lithium batteries have a charge limiting circuit built in. The charge current might not be too excessive in normal worst case, battery basically dead, but just enough to start the bike.
I have a 12Ah batterytender LiFEPO4 battery, I can check the charge current this weekend when its pretty dead, and also check the stock worst case lead acid charge current.
I gave up a good bit of useable underseat space to the Powertronic. No biggie though.
That's what the crash bars are for! I bought a couple Giant Loop Possibles Pouches in which I plan to stash my tool roll in one, and my tire repair supplies, along with a few other odds and ends, in the other.
I'll use the supplied straps to secure them to the crash bars, and a Pronghorn strap for each just for added security. This gives me a LOT more space than is under the seats.
Not 390A related, but that's how I have the Himalayan set up with the Lomo bags on the tank racks... One side carries two spare tubes, patch kit, tire tools, lube, talc, pump, etc., and the other side carries my tool roll and other shit...
And yeah, I like carrying shit...
Has anyone done the valve check themselves yet ? It looks like you need very small hands to get in the there to check them. Are they staying in spec on average ?
That would be very helpful It's hard to tell from reading the advertising blah, blah, but I don't think so. EME, the company that makes the Enduralast alternator replacement for vintage BMW's and Guzzis recommends that owners not use Lithium batteries. They are supposed to be releasing a new system that's compatible with lithium, probably all that's really needed is current limiting in the regulator. Most commercial BMS' do balancing and prevent over and under voltage, but I've never seen them claim to protect against high current. But Lithium batteries at a low state of charge happily take whatever the alternator can give, and can do so until the alternator overheats or the regulator/rectifier toasts. There are some very cheap 5Amp constant current modules available (like two bucks) but 5 amps might be a bit too low
beak and short fender
Looks good, actually better than a high fender??
I haven’t seen any high front fender on 390 that looked good for me yet. Somehow they all didn’t fit nicely in the design (my opinion). That’s why i tried this way. Still have to test how it does in the wet or mud. There might be spray coming up the forks due to the short fender…
mine does that at least once every time I ride. Dealership is far, I’m thinking of giving that fuelx device a try, maybe it’ll fix it.
Does anyone know the rated alternator output power for the 390? I've been searching online, but nothing. I've got a shop manual, but it's at the shop (duh). I'll take a look tomorrow.
I've been contemplating that as well, though I'm still quite a way away from the suggested interval. I think I'd just pull the engine. I doubt I'd be able to accurately check or set anything in the cramped space. The alternative is to just never do it. In my somewhat limited experience, DOHC heads don't really get out of adjustment unless the valve seats sink or the valves tulip. With a small engine like this, it's just not likely for either of those two possibilities to happen. I suspect I'd be checking clearances and just putting the engine back in. The various Ducatis I've owned yielded a lot of frustrating maneuvering and fiddling just to find that they didn't need adjustment. It would be valuable to hear what people who have experience with this particular engine have to say.
Here is my earlier post on checking the valve clearances:
Some further notes: I plan on re-shimming the exhaust valves in the spring since they were close to the lower limit and will probably get a little tighter with more miles. I also bought a set of these to help re-verify the intake valve clearances because they were really hard to measure with the feeler gauges that I had: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/motion-pro-tappet-feeler-gauge-p No idea if these will work better but will know in the spring.
Thanks for the information. I probably should just read the archive though it's a lot of stuff. It's certainly possible they will get tighter, though most of the moving around happens early and unless the valve tulips or the seat recedes it will get looser, not tighter. That tappet gauge looks handy, but 35 bucks for one double ended gauge!?! I generally buy a set of long, tapered feeler gauges, take them apart and bend and/or cut as appropriate to fit the engine I'm working on. I do them in go-middle spec-no-go triplets for the selected valve and then label them. I have dozens in the feeler gauge drawer of my toolbox, most of them I'm probably never using again (has anyone seen a TX500 Yamaha around recently? Or even more unlikely, a TX750 that didn't self destruct when the counter-rotating balancer shafts lost timing and smashed into each other?) but feeler gauge sets are generally cheap and most of the blades are useless bulk.