"adapter plate"?? Darn, I was hoping for a direct bolt on. When I did my 950 demo ride the other weekend, they had one of the true Dakar bikes up on display. It had a sweet right side fan that was direct bolt on using the tabs on the radiator. Sadly, nobody there had any idea what the part number might be. They wouldn't let me take the Dakar bike apart either . So, please keep me in mind too when you get this set up. Thanks.
Yo. Ya ever get that rally fan on???? Really would like to know how that turned out. I've got an old PC fan mounted on mine and it helps 'some', but I'd rather have something a bit more effective.
Just my opinion, so no need to flame me. But the way I see it these second fans just reduce airflow when off, and add extra weight right where you want it least on an ADV R. I have never had a problem on my ADV outside of city traffic, even on steep 8k plus ft, slow speed climbs in hot weather, well it runs higher on the IMO, it is certainly not overheating. Even in the city on 100f plus days it has not overheated, but just run hot. I think a manual fan switch makes far more sense, so when you know your going to get into a situation where it might start getting pretty hot, then you can turn the fan on early, and thus give yourself more of a heatsink.
FWIIW, I just changed coolant out in my 2000 640 Adv R. (I actually had the entire system apart with the radiators off). I couldn't find any air bleed on the system anywhere (including the thermo housing), so I just added coolant (I used the Honda HP stuff), fired it up, and ran it with the cap off. It bubbled and gurgled quite a bit, but ended up taking well over a liter so I think I got it filled. On my 2000 it is hard to know how hot it is running as all I have is an overheat idiot light. If you let it run for awhile, the fan kicks on, but I've never seen the light come on. It seems to run fine, so hopefully, I don't have any air in the system. Anybody know how to check if the light is working? Do both the fan and overheat light work off the temp sensor at the bottom of the right radiator? Will shorting this out blink the light? - Mark
No worries. If mine hadn't overheated a couple times already I wouldn't be worrying about it. When its 110+ and I get stuck in traffic, it DOES overheat. Between the air temp, road surface, no wind and gobs of idleing cars, it's HOT. I've bled my system and replaced the coolant a couple times already (every spring). I'm thinking of trying water wetter next, but I'd still like the option of an auxillary fan. I already have an old PC fan mounted and attached to a toggle switch. It just doesn't move enough air. Sitting on the side of the road waiting for the darn thing to cool down some in the middle of a Vegas summer isn't my idea of fun. Anyway I can correct that situation is worth any weight. My other option is not to ride at all. While it's a viable option and I certainly love the A/C in my car, I'd rather be riding.... I can stay semi-comfortable in full gear thanks to my Cool Vest , but I want the bike to stay cool too.
Velocibiker, have you tried a manual fan switch yet? I find on my VFR800, it really helps to drop the temp early, and thus give yourself the greater heatsink headroom. Once when living in Mesa, I blew a fanbelt which unbeknownst to me took out my A/C compressor wiring, and of course it had to happen during the hottest part of the Arizona summer, that was one very long afternoon. Here in Texas the humidity is a little harder on us humans, with our evaporative cooling, but it is a little easier on machinery. Cheers, Mack
Hadn't though of that. I could wire in a bypass at the thermo switch to my existing toggle....hmmmmmmm Kick both fans on early and bring the temp down sooner when I know there's going to be a lot of slow moving. Sounds like that might help. Certainly can't hurt. THANKS Mack!!!
i havent forgotten im working on a basket case 02 520sx i got for a song putting in a six speed gear box and a bigger tank .............. if it starts well ill ds it without adding the e start now ill have a 3 stable of 3 very different machine .......... taking off for maryland on the 950 tommorow to go to the family reunion ........ im going to try to do the fan next week .... you are on your own for the wiring but ill show ya what i came up with that clears the decompresson lever on the valave cover Barry thanks mack for ribbbing me into getting the lighter bike
Great. I look forward to seeing what you've done. BTW, I grew up in MD (Glen Burnie/Severna Park). What parts ya headed for?
wuz headed for can you say 450 miles in 12 hours in the rain ???? i got 1/3 way there and it seemed as the rain was following me ........... went buy ktm shop today and got some stuff needed im on this project this weekend ................. ill get this thing built and see about wiring btw im converting to lighter adv so dont be surprised when i post pics :eek1 Barry
Well?? It's been a couple of weeks. Any progress? You have me VERY curious about a "lighter Adventure"...... 109 degrees in a couple neighborhoods around here on Monday. Summer is finally here.
With summer quickly approaching, I figured it was time to mount a right side fan. Besides, I sent my seat back to Bill Mayer for some adjustments, so I had some down time to play. Through prior experimentation with the left-side fan, I knew I could get it in/on. It was just a matter of making some brackets and relocating the condenser. Then Iâd run some wiring, mount a switch and Iâd be set. It really wasnât that bad. Most of the time was spent creating & bending the brackets for the fan and the condenser. Hereâs the Readerâs Digest version of the install: 1. Relocate the condenser. Luckily, KTM realized Iâd be doing this and included this wonderful mounting lug at the right rear of the head. You can see it just below and behind the green temperature switch. I just used a little âLâ bracket to go from the lug to the condenser mount. Wires are long enough and thereâs enough clearance to get an allen wrench in there if needed. This is what used to be mounted to that lug (battery for scale only): On my bike, there was nothing running through it or attached to it. Itâs just an extra part nowâ¦. 2. Mount the fan. Now the fan just barely fits. The compression release arm off the exhaust valve cover touches the inside edge of the fan housing. Two of the four fan mounting holes line up âalmostâ perfectly with the tabs on the edge of the radiator. Close enough though. So you have to fab a couple small brackets to mount up to the radiator, and at least one inboard mount. I ran the inboard fan mount from behind the rubber gas tank mount, around behind the compression release cable, then to the fan. This required a lot of twisting and bending so make sure you use something that can withstand the abuse. I used a 2â diameter flat steel pipe clamp. For the radiator brackets, I just used a couple more small âLâ brackets. A little cutting/grinding of the brackets is also needed where they attach to the fan itself. Clearances are small. Use your favorite nuts/bolts/screws to secure everything. Hereâs how it looks: Hereâs a wider image including relocated condenser: 3. Wire and switch. I used a DPDT, weatherproof (triple sealed) switch and wired it so I could manually override the LS fan, or turn on the RS fan. To turn on the LS fan, all you need to do is short the radiator temp sensor terminals (under the boot). So I cut off the original spade terminals and ran a pair of wires from the switch and spliced them in to the existing (brown) temp sensor wires with new spade connectors. Now, when I throw the switch, all Iâm doing is closing the connection at the temp sensor and the LS fan kicks on. This has no effect on the automatic operation of the fan. If I have the switch in the OFF or RS fan position, the LS fan will still kick on automatically. For the RS fan, I wired it direct from the battery with an inline fuse. I thought about using a relay, but the fan really doesnât pull very many amps, so I decided to do without. Anyway, the RS fan is wired so that throwing the switch just completes the ground and it fires right up. One benefit I noticed is that since itâs running direct from the battery, it spins at a higher RPM. The switch (above & below the dash): Switch wiring close up: 4. So, with the switch in the central (OFF) position, everything works like normal. If I toggle up, the LF fan fires up and if I toggle down the RS fan comes on. I havenât been able to road test it yet as my seat is still at Bill Mayer being âadjustedâ. Some notes: The clearances are very slim. The fan is only millimeters away from the radiator fins. When the tank is on, there are only millimeters of space between the inside of the tank to the fan mounting brackets. I made sure to cut off any extra bolt threads so they are flush with the heads of the nuts. Also, as an aid for working on the bike, I made the connections to the RS fan using posi-locks. I also made the wires to the switch extra long so there is some play when I pull the dash. Kinda looking forward to summer now. I used to stress every time Iâd get stuck in traffic on the way home from work as the temp gauge would creep up and up. I knew the dreaded yellow blinking temp light wasnât far behind. Sitting on the side of the freeway when itâs 100+ degrees while waiting for the bike to cool down is not my idea of a good time. Shouldnât have to worry about that anymoreâ¦..
good job velo! thought you might like to see this if you didn't already: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74946 Seems like the shroud with the fan made it easier? (less DIY fitting I think) let us know if it really does the trick in the heat. I am contemplating this or an oil cooler setup.
Nicely done Velo... Clean and simple. It was nice of KTM to provide all those handy extra mounting holes wern't it?
After stumbling over this thread I decided to outfit my 640 with the dual fan set-up. After reading Velocibiker's description I came up with the following circuit With an ordinary DPDT switch you can have the NORMAL operation of just the stock fan, or switch to FAN OVER RIDE and get both fans at once. Pretty simple. 'munkie
Actually I missed that one! Regardless, ya can't mount it with the shroud (on an '02). The compression release cable mount gets in the way.
I think he mounted the shround one on the left (stock side) and moved the stocker (w/out shroud) to the right (open side). Jerome did this as well with his bike; and I think he used a shroud on the second side but had to hack a bit to fit her. BTW, munkie, Drif10 has wired his fan to a manual override - maybe we can get him to post his method/diagram?
All it takes is a STSP (basic on/off) switch to short/close the temp sensor. Just splice in a couple wires to the brown wires at the radiator thermo sensor. Run one to each lead of the switch. Switch "ON" closes the contact and fan comes on. Switch "OFF" and the conection is broken. Fan cuts off if the thermo switch is cool enough. Fan will only work with key on. You can even get "spiffy" and get a lighted rocker switch or wire a up an LED so that you have a nice indicator when the fan is overriden. Although your temp guage and your ears make it pretty easy to tell when it's on or off....