95' R11RS - Rusted Spring Strut Mount Separated From Leading Link

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by HBN, Jul 14, 2009.

  1. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    95' R1100RS, 92K New to me at 88K.

    While cleaning the bike after a weekend ride, I noticed that the Spring strut mount on the leading link had separated from the leading link itself. It is apparent that moisture had found its way in there as evidenced by the rust. Additionally, the mount is no longer usable due to the visible hair-line cracks along its base seen in the pics.

    View from right
    [​IMG]


    View from left
    [​IMG]

    View from Front
    [​IMG]

    I searched through GSpot, Garage and RoadWarriors for info and only found a little specifically related to my issue:

    From: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62235&highlight=leading+link

    So...my options are:

    1.) Remove leading link and bring to Morton's BMW. They have a fabricator who can make a new mount to be welded. (either have welded there or locally in the Shen Valley) :D

    2.) Trailer the bike to the dealer without having removed the leading link :bluduh$$

    3.) Order a used leading link. :dunno

    4.) Order a new leading link. $600+:yikes

    On a side note, I have some apprehension about reinstalling the leading link, specifically, the 230nm torque specs and special BMW tool w/ allen wrench hole to tighten it properly.
    This thread has some helpeful advice on that tool:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=961720&postcount=18
    I could tighten it to whatever I am capable and ride it to the dealer for the 230nm.

    Any advice or related threads would be much appreciated. Should I replace all the bolts on the leading link assemblage at this time as well?:ear
    #1
  2. manganos

    manganos Let me pontificate.

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    Ouch!! Sorry to see that bro. Hopefully it won't be out of commission long and you will be back riding the twisties.
    #2
  3. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    I'd start with the Morton's option. Used arms can be had for cheap with luck, too, via Ebay and maybe one of the junkyards (beemer boneyard looks like they're out -- Re-Psycle?).

    But if Morton's fabber could weld the mount with just the fairings removed and mounted to the bike, it could save you some pains of disassembly. I had to dremel off one of the nuts on the mounting stud for that arm on my 1100S. Not a big deal, but just a PITA when you're expecting an easy teardown.

    Anyways, I'd strip the thing down in your garage to get the front subframe, gauges, and wiring out of the way. Open it up to make the problem accessible, truck it to Mortons, and see what they'd want to fix it. Worst case scenario -- you buy a replacement, used or new, and have most of the work done already.

    Check your lower ball joint, while you're in there. Mine were backing out at similar mileage.
    #3
  4. concours

    concours WFO for 47 years

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    That can be properly weld repaired, MIG, TIG or even SMAW process will be fine... If it were mine, I'd TIG weld it in place with the shock disconnected. No spatter, mask and silver paint, done. One hour total. GOOD CATCH by the way.... a good reason to clean and lube, inspection by proxy.
    #4
  5. Michhub

    Michhub Major Medical

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    Whoa...good luck with the fix....sounds like the T-Dub is gonna get some miles put on...have you talked to Anton? BMW guru out your way...?
    #5
  6. MossBack

    MossBack North side of the tree

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    I had that happen on my 97 1100 RT. Twice..

    Turn's out that the lower bearing in my Olins shock pivot had frozen solid and was stressing the mount. It looked exactly like yours does.
    Put a new bearing in your shock and get the control arm welded or get a new arm.

    Good Luck.
    #6
  7. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Thanks for the generous advice. I will be contacting Anton in the AM. Will check the ball joint and replace the bearing in the Ohlins. Mossback, you are right, the Ohlins was most likely the culprit.
    #7
  8. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    Thanks for this interesting bit, Mossback. I don't think I'd have ever thought of that being a root cause. Cool (in an engineering way).
    #8
  9. Gimmeslack

    Gimmeslack furthur

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    Excellent advice on inspecting the shock. My application is different, but I'll surely be looking at it closely.

    Glad you caught it in time HBN!! :huh
    #9
  10. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Currently weighing my options. A black leading link (Telelever A-Arm or Trailing Arm) in worse cosmetic but acceptable mechanical condition is available on ebay for $150. I contacted Morton's and they said they should be able to fab a new one and weld it back - sent them my pics and awaiting their rough diagnosis. Contacted Anton who said he would be willing to work on the reinstallation of a used one but agreed Morton's may be the way to go for the fab work. They also may cut me some slack since I bought it there recently and from one of their employees. Will keep you all in the loop. Thanks for the help!
    #10
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I would contact www.beemerboneyard.com for a used one at a very reasonable price!

    Jim :brow

    PS If you need a hand, I am not that far away!
    #11
  12. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Checked there but all sold out. Thanks for the offer to help - seen your site's "hot to" articles before:thumb
    #12
  13. MossBack

    MossBack North side of the tree

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    PM returned
    #13
  14. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Leaning towards purchasing the used leading link with 22k - Shipped for $170. Will look at the actual work involved in removing the exisiting link vs taking it to Anton. We'll see.
    #14
  15. Skippii

    Skippii Milkshakes, my lad.

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    But the bike works fine now, right?
    So why mess with it?
    #15
  16. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    The entire mount for the front shock is completly disconnected from the A-Arm. Yes the bike may run fine but that doesn't matter when my suspension gives mid corner:deal
    #16
  17. Skippii

    Skippii Milkshakes, my lad.

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    Oh, I see.
    JB Weld.
    #17
  18. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Sure you're not thinking about using some rebar?:lol3 I'll bring it by during lunch and you can weld away :rofl:augie
    #18
  19. Skippii

    Skippii Milkshakes, my lad.

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    :cry :cry :cry :cry :cry
    I miss my garage.
    #19
  20. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Received a follow up message from Morton's who suggested purchasing a used one if it could be found for a reasonable price. Looked around and bought this one from an R1100 w/ 22k - $149 + $18s/h.
    [​IMG]

    It will clearly need to be cleaned and repainted to match the BMW Silver on my bike.
    #20