950 ADV electrical adventure...No, not a hybrid

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by hennessyktm, Sep 19, 2019.

  1. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Searched, found threads , read through, etc. Still stumped.

    04 950 ADV.

    My buddy called me last week from North Carolina and said his 990 developed an electrical short and his bike cut out. Apparently, his phone call miraculously spread his bike's mechanical STD from North Carolina all the way to my bike here in Indiana via phone line. Technology nowadays...bummer.

    That phone call did happen, but in all seriousness...

    My 950 all of the sudden developed a stall at idle.

    Not fuel/air related.

    The speedo goes crazy (random speeds at a stand-still (4, 7, 37, 150, etc. mph); dash illumination kind of flickers; tach shoots to the limit and back down. Weird.

    Flip the kill switch to "off" and all goes back to normal. Flip it back "on" and it goes crazy.

    Sometimes flipping the kill switch back from off to on resets itself somehow and the bike will start.

    Sometimes turning the keyed ignition from on to off and back on makes it reset itself and the bike will start.

    Checked the battery voltage with bike off, all good.

    Checked battery terminal connections, tight/all good.

    I have torn the ignition barrel down, sanded the contacts and dielectric greased them. I did not stretch the springs. I will do that tomorrow morning.

    I replaced the starter/main relay. After replacing the starter/main relay, the bike ran fine for a few days. Now, the symptoms are back.

    Note, it will not stall at idle if I keep the idle high...around 2k rpms.

    I am thinking maybe the voltage regulator/rectifier (VRR) may be shot and causing problems?

    Perhaps the new relay was up to the task until the VRR killed it?

    I have a new VRR I kept as a spare. If stretching the springs doesn't fix it, the VRR goes on...if VRR doesn't fix it, I will replace starter/main relay again in case it was killed by the VRR.

    Thoughts?
    #1
  2. Crazybrian

    Crazybrian Resident Moose

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    Bad ground?
    #2
  3. Problem0

    Problem0 Adventurer

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    Clean the terminals of the main ground wire at both ends especially the end at the starter motor.
    #3
  4. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Long timer

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    I've had this problem before, with me it turned out to be connector going into starter solenoid, the wiring can get broken inside plug, it's worth noting as well though that it can occur with ktm 's infamous joint,( were wires are bundled together and soldered) with vibration these can break apart this also does what your subscribing.
    #4
  5. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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    When my RR failed the bike ran fine. It would overcharge and melt the bat tho. After the bat melted it shorted inside killing the bike. New bat and it ran fine but didn't charge right. Some one here had an issue and it turned out it was the wires to the speedometer. Not sure if that was a 950 or 990.
    #5
  6. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Thank you all for your feedback.

    I am going to dig into it this afternoon and report back.
    #6
  7. zedtours

    zedtours Been here awhile

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    Ignition barrel springs stretch>>>>>>>>>not heard of that one?
    #7
  8. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    An nteresting discovery.

    I did not mention I replaced my OEM fuel pump with Dr. Bean modified fuel pump 3-4 weeks ago. Didn't think it was related at all.

    Today I removed the fuel tanks and started troubleshooting.

    I turned the ignition and kill switch on.

    Got the crazy speedo, flickering, etc.

    Unplugged the VRR, no change.

    Unplugged the fuel pump. Craziness stopped.

    Plugged it back in, turned key off and back on. Craziness ensued.

    Removed fuel pump fuse, craziness stopped.

    EDIT: deleted incorrect trouble shooting info in this post so I don't lead some poor soul astray.

    UPDATE a few posts down.
    #8
    roookie1 likes this.
  9. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    :scratch
    #9
  10. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Boatman, please elaborate...

    Update:
    Ran the bike a bit this morning and went for a ride.

    Damn if it didn't do it again. "Only" twice over the ride, but same thing.

    Maybe the Dr. Bean circuit board is screwed up?

    Update 2:
    Now, with the kill switch on, every time I turn the key to run, it shows crazy numbers on the speedo before getting to zero/normal. It is not spazzing out at the same tempo as the fuel pump like before, but something is not right.
    #10
  11. jmull013

    jmull013 Adventurer

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    Put some penicillin in the tank to cure STD problem. I would recommend a pretty heavy dose....at least half a tanks worth.
    #11
    hennessyktm likes this.
  12. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I posted the head scratch because I'm really perplexed at how a 950 would be able to run with the fuel lines reversed on the pump. This would direct the flow from the carbs to the tank. Then there is the 2 check valves inside the OEM pump that don't allow flow in the wrong direction.
    #12
    mountaincadre likes this.
  13. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Long timer

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    I've plummed the new fuel lines wrong on 3 different occasions,(hands up to being a bit dim those days) but im scunnered as to how it ran as well, when I did it to mine I had fuel all over my work shop and bike would diffinately not start never mind run, as Boatman says if it's backward your robbing the carbs and putting it back to the tanks,did/are you using a spray start?
    #13
  14. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Thanks, Boatman.
    I have no idea what the deal is.
    #14
  15. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Mountaincadre,
    No spray start or anything like that.
    #15
  16. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Long timer

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    Hmmmm, are you running the standard fuel pump? (I ask as I'm running a facet and I have different routing for fuel lines) obviously if it runs then carbs ARE getting fuel, sorry just re-read that you have a DB kit on the fuel pump.
    #16
  17. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    Standard pump with DB kit.

    I don't know...maybe I had them right.

    What I do know is it currently has an electrical issue which I believe is related to the pump.

    When I go back in to work on it, I will reverse the plumbing and report back. You and Boatman make sense. Seems damn near impossible it should run with the lines plumbed incorrectly.
    #17
    mountaincadre likes this.
  18. Problem0

    Problem0 Adventurer

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    Don't reverse the plumbing, just verify that it is the correct way around.
    A friend of mine made a significant error in this area, where he connected the drain tube for the Fuel filler to the breather tube on top of the pump, which meant that rain water and spilled fuel ended up in the electrics of the pump. The pump did not survive long under those conditions. May be worth checking that too.
    #18
  19. hennessyktm

    hennessyktm Still here...

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    EDIT: PROBLEM NOT SOLVED.

    It was NOT the DB-modified fuel pump.

    No problem with the DB fuel pump.

    I did replace the DB modofied fuel pump with OEM and it worked for a bit, but not long.

    Recap:
    I re-checked the starter/main relay, re-checked the ignition barrel (stretched springs while in there), checked battery connections, etc. I also replaced the VRR and checked all fuses. No change.

    The bike still randomly stalls out, and when it does, the dash blinks/flickers, shows crazy numbers, etc.

    When this occurs, if I unplug the fuel pump, it will stop electrically freaking out.

    If I unplug the fuel pump fuse, it will also stop freaking out.

    I guess there is a worn spot on the fuel pump wiring somewhere and it is grounding it out.

    Thoughts?
    #19
  20. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Glad you got it fixed.
    Could this explain your problem? There is an internal flyback diode inside the stock fuel pump. If this was blown due to reversing the polarity of the pump, high voltage noise (back emf) could be reach the ecu and cause the problems you describe. After the initial 5 second prime after ignition on, the float bowls will be full. Switch kill switch or ignition off and back on, fuel pump will be energised, but will not run because float needle's closed and system under pressure, no pumping, no back emf, no problem. It might be worth fitting the dr bean kit to the new OEM pump afterall.
    #20