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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by MadM, Jan 8, 2017.
Awesome post Loved reading it! Keep the farkels coming!
It has been a long time since my last post. In the meantime I did some local rides, nothing fancy. On my last ride I lost all power to the lights and GPS. Below is the culprit.
After a lot of research, I decided that OEM is the best solution, though expensive. KTM care package arived in a few days.
Got a fresh clutch lever rubber, old one migrated over to my 450.
The "kidney costing" main part.
Removing the old one was easy. Drill a hole and easy-out bit took swift care of it.
New and old, side by side.
At first I just wanted to transfer the electrical part, but holding the new unit it became obvious that the old one has seen better days. See in the video
New one installed and tested. Bike is back in fully working order.
The only bad thing now is, 2 keys. One for ignition and one for fuel tanks and seat lock.
All in all I am super happy to be in rideable condition again and can't wait for the weekend.
The timing of this post is crazy! Mine just started acting up, and will need to do the same. It will kinda suck having two keys though.
My favorite picture sharing platform has died, I will try to get them to a new, more stable platform as soon as possible!
So, It has been far too long from my last post here. Unfortunately my lovely LC8 was on a backburnerr this season, since I did a rally with my 450 and that took priority.
Now that winter is coming to my parts, it is time to give the old girl some love
I have a few good things planed for this winter that I will share here with you in due time as they happen. First major thing is already in motion battery and associated wiring relocation.
We shall see where it all ends up in the spring
Dr. Bean Fuel pump kit
So with the bike in pieces and waiting for some wiring I started my winter work with a fuel pump. Doctors orders were a Dr. Bean fuel pump kit for 9x0 bikes. you can find more info about the kit here. one thing I have to say about Dr. Bean is that it was great dealing with him and FOLLOW his instructions to the LETTER!
Now, first off, who would have guessed fuel pump has to come off the bike
It is happy December, so I have been drinking a bit before posting this, so DO NOT take it as a reference guide
I took the pump apart and realised I was just in the nick of time to do so, next ride could left me stranded.
So, it was off wit the old crap, some cleaning and STRICTLY following Dr. Beans instructions, everything went together like a charm., even the soldering, since I haven't soldered for years...
Here it is all done.
Not much to look at, but hopefully it will work like it is supposed to. I can't really test it yet since I am missing a good part of wiring harness on my bike
On to the next part...
Nice write up!
I installed one on my bike 5 years ago and it's working great!
Thanks! I hope I did my soldering good, been a few years since I last soldered
Might have been covered already but remove safety screw under fuel caps.
So if they jam up you can unbolt cap to fill up.
Or do what I did on a bike and remove the tabs in the tumbler so nothing can jam up really. Sure can be opened with anything but looks like it requires a key still.
Should have taken pictures and covered it on here but didn’t.
Thanks for the heads-up! I forgot about those safety bolts. I do have a something in mind for the fuel caps, if it works out. Right now I can't even get to the bike with all the crap that I have in the garage
Soo, there is still a lot of crap and 3 different bikes in my garage, but I managed to get some work done on the 950.
If I could sustain such a fleet in my garage, I wouldn't mind it at all. RFS, LC4 and LC8, what else can a man wish for?
I have been slowly working on a battery relocation project. So far I have moved the REG/REC and starter relay to the space right in front of the ITG filter with a custom alu bracket. Both could be a little more to the left, since I forgot to calculate the relay cover in when I did my measurements and it is a bit tight.
Clerance from the airfilter is plenty.
Wires from the generator to regulator had to be extended. Carefully labelled every wire and crimped in an extension.
Then covered the every wire with two heat shrinks and altogether in a spiral wrap. Afterwards, it was just a matter of routing it with the oil line and up to the top of the bike.
Now to secure the battery in the box under the seat and extending the wires from the battery to the relay and ground.
Soon it will be ready for MOT
Madm, looks nice and neat but will the reg/rec get enough air flow there to avoid over heating?
There was no airflow to it behind the skid plate either, so it should be fine.
I was thinking about the trouble the SM has with the reg/rec not being able to get enough airflow and eventually failing, keep us posted on how it goes as I'd like to mount mine in the same place.
since you are this deep, you should just replace the RR with a less failure prone model. There are tons of topics on which model to use.
Will look into that. Though on most bikes, like the old 640, it is stuffed under the seat with no airflow at all.
Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately not in the budget for this year, since I am racing Albania Rally on my 450 am all funding goes into that at the moment. I just need to get the bike MOT ready.
With the reg/rec moved up higher and the battery is in a slow process of establishing its place under the seat, it was time to figure out how to mount the fuel pump. After looking at some possibilities I decided to just cut up the original battery box for the pump mounts, after all, it is just a 12€ part.
Firstly, off with the top and sides.
Some more trimming was needed to lower the overall height, I was left with just a flat plate and mounting points for the pump. Than came the tricky part, of attaching it back to the bike. I helped myself out with some aluminium angle.
With all the holes where they should be, it was time for the final trimming and some black paint.
Everything bolted in place perfectly. For securing the plate to the aluminium I used M5 bolts, nylock nuts with some washers and for mounting it to the bike, I used 4 OEM bolts from the battery box with a set of nordlock washers and nylock nuts. It should never bet undone with vibration.
A lot of space has been made upfront. Also the pump is secured nicely up high and out of harms way.
A few more things to do before I can mount the left side tank and start her up and hope it doesn't go
on my first 04 adventure I think I just set the side stand switch to the up position and unbolted it from the side stand....then just zip tied it to the frame and forgot about it. But splicing the wires together or making a jumper does take that extra little bit of possibility out of the equation.
With everything removed down low, it was time to nest the battery in its new home under the seat. While this is quite a straight forward procedure, it does take some planing and preparation. First off, I needed longer cables that could stretch from the under seat tray, down the frame and up to the front, where I re-positioned the starter relay. While adding a lot of cable to the bike, I also went one size bigger (thicker) on the cable.
I had some problems finding the best way to route the cables, but eventually figured it out.
Idea for fixing the battery in the box, came from a friend of mine on FB, a ABS cover from 990 model :)
With the wiring all tidied up, tank fits without rubbing anything.
Towards, next task...
Looks pretty neat, good job!
Do you think the benefit of having and easily accessible battery outweighs the low barycentre of the original disposition?