950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. Mofo Flake

    Mofo Flake Incompetent off-road Supporter

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    The correct length is sure to be about 6" more than what you buy.

    ....


    When you do the sidestand relocation, do you remove the old mounting block also? Does anyone have a handy picture of what remaining after it is removed?
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  2. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I can't remember the amount but the individual lengths are all on the parts diagram for the tank.

    [​IMG]
  3. veetwo _tls

    veetwo _tls RENOVATIO:

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    i got a 10m roll of 5/16 (8mm) on ebay quite cheap & i use 5/16 (8mm) only inc crossover

    3m will give you spare
  4. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    Also be aware that there are 2 different sizes. The crossover between the tanks is a smaller hose.
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  5. oldfool

    oldfool Long timer

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  6. go2cnavy

    go2cnavy Dont Worry Be Brappy

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    Anybody willing to sell me a rear wheel? I'm itching to slap a skinny on the 990A. Thanks!
  7. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    Im out of ideas.
    Massive gurgle and misfire at high rpms.
    Idles and runs smooth until about 6k rpms, massive stumble and misfire.

    Checked:
    Plugs
    Airflow
    Swapped mains
    Moved needle position
    Hoses and lines
    Set TPS to about 15 different settings
    Cables and connectors
    Bad fuel connector
    Drained carbs
    Carb rubbers
    Diaphrams

    Any ideas?
  8. bigtodd

    bigtodd Hi, wanna ride?

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    ^^^ Pull off the headlight bucket and start checking all the wiring for kinks, bare spots or loose connections. After checking behind the headlight, start tracing wiring back to the ECU, regulator and the relay/fuse block. I was having similar issues and found a random wire in the spaghetti of wires behind the mask that was kinked and frayed. Just fiddling with the wire while the bike was running made a difference. Cut and re-soldered as well as added some shrink tube and problem was fixed. Still have no idea where that wire goes or what it's connected to.
    Snowq and alongat like this.
  9. Helibee

    Helibee Been here awhile Supporter

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    Snowq installed an mUnit Blue during his recent refresh.

    Rev limiter pulling spark?
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  10. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    Morning,
    As Heli says, I have redone all the electronics and replaced everything with a m.unit.
    Only change I made to ECU wiring is feed, ground and removing the sidestand and neutral sensors.
    It's very odd because it was running ok all the way up to rev limit, then I calibrated the TPS and this problem appeared. I've tried setting the TPS back to where it was, and many more values but the problem persists.
    TPS has a steady Volt increase with throttle input from 0.545 V to 3.70.
  11. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    What’s the state of your rectifier?
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  12. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    Hi Along
    Unknown, haven't measured it.
    I have had no issues with it before.
    But, ECU gets all its feed from the m.unit, rectifier only runs up to battery - can it still effect the ignition? :ear
  13. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    I’m not suggesting the rectifier is the problem but if it is failing then it most certainly can impact all sorts of circuits given that they all have voltage range tolerance. Probably wouldn’t hurt to do a simple DC voltage test at idle, low revs and high revs to rule it out. If you see any voltage outside of around a 12-14.5 then that might be an indicator of a faulty rectifier.

    With that said, it does sound like you’ve got a bare / frayed wire or poor ground (earth)...don’t rule that out just yet and double and triple check all connections and area of potential wear/stress.

    Also, could you have disturbed any vent hoses, accidentally blocked one, kinked a vent hose or even fuel vent / supply a bit...Enough to impact requirements at higher revs and throttle inputs??? Trace your ignition coil stick wires all the way back to their source too...not sure I can think of anything else...

    You mentioned going back and checking and even changing TPS - did you observe any behaviour difference one way or another after making TPS adjustments? If not then I’m thinking there could be some disconnect there...adjustments should make a noticeable difference regardless if it’s good or bad.
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  14. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    Wait...you said the ECU gets all its inputs from this M unit...what inputs exactly???
  15. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    I'll check the rectifier to make sure its ok! probably a good thing to check anyway.
    Poor ground for plugs / ECU sounds like a very good option, I'll put that on the list.
    Just for my understanding; If I had a poor ground for ECU / Plugs, could it still run 'perfect' at low rpms, and then shit itself at 6k+?

    I first checked the TPS due to it stumbling and misbehaving at low throttle inputs (cruising at 50 km/h was a stumblefest)
    Setting the TPS got rid of this completely, but instead I got this massive cut-off at high rpms.
    Moving it back and forth now, affects the cut-off moving it slightly up and down, but no matter how much i shift the TPS it wont go away, even disconnecting it does not remove it.

    About the m.unit, the ECU only gets its main power feed from the unit as it controls the ignition on/off.
    Kill command etc is passed through m.unit and cuts power to ECU also.

    Thanks for great advice Along, please keep em coming :)
  16. Helibee

    Helibee Been here awhile Supporter

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    Based on you experiencing the smoothing with tps adjustments, I'd lean toward the tps being faulty. Have a spare to swap and test?
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  17. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    I hope not but seems very possible now.
    unfortunately I do not have another one to test with.
    Do you think it might be faulty, even tho it produces the correct voltage? - I have no way of measuring this while riding of course so hard to tell how it behaves.
  18. Helibee

    Helibee Been here awhile Supporter

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    I'd be suspicious of the impact of vibration on a piece of electronics with a mechanical component. Short of the ECM chopping spark, the fact that you've been able to affect the behavior by adjusting the tps, leans it toward the tps to me. I suppose the ecm's "interpretation" of the tps voltage could be suspect too. Is your ECM soft mounted still?
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  19. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    I’m not sure I agree with you guys. I asked if adjusting the TPS makes any difference to see if it is functioning at all...in absence of actually testing its reading and output.

    Had he said that adjusting it makes no difference, I’d suspect the TPS but he says it does make a difference which suggests to me that it’s likely working rather than not working. I’m not saying unequivocally that the TPS is ok but given its doing something, I’m leaning toward it being ok until testing proves otherwise.
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  20. godwinmt

    godwinmt They call me Crash

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    @gearheadE30 didn't you have an issue with the TPS on your ADV working on the bench, but cutting out during operation causing similar issues?
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