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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.
Nice! I’ll be looking forward to your thoughts/report how the two stack up with equal riders.
I didn’t know that trick! Holy crap did it work well. I was amazed. Thanks for the tip! I had to push my brake line down so it was lower than the reservoir to burp the line.
Here is the video for anyone who is interested:
Still breaking it in and haven't been trying tbh. But it lacks the raw brute force of the SE for sure.
But still, all bikes apart from the SE lacks that. there is only one SE.
Brake pad recommendations? going to order some spares to have on a longer trip next week... might not have time to get OE pads.
Has anyone tried anything effective to reduce the amount of heat coming up off of the headers and h pipe on their SE?
The adventure has me a bit spoiled I guess as the combination of fuel tanks and larger side panels seem to force more of the hot air out the back of the bike.
I've been tossing around ideas like:
Wrapping the pipes
Wondering if a set of ADV side panels might fit?
Riding faster was a valid suggestion made to me today, but I am trying to come up with something more universal..
These work good for me:
EBC double-h sintered brakes.
Rear is run the EBC off road pads mxs181
I had my exhaust ceramic coated, and it helps a lot. Had it done local and that was a waste, then had it done right by a place in CT. Not a cheap option but it does make a difference and my flat black pipes look cool! Competitive Edge Coatings is the place that did a nice job, seems to be holding up well so far anyway
I"m curious to hear how well the coating on the head pipes helps. After chasing my tail quite a bit while riding in CO last summer, I finally figured out that a big part of my issue was boiling my gas in the tank and hydrolock on slow speed stuff. Above a walking pace didn't seem to be as much fo an issue but at low first gear rock crawling it was pretty bad. Should have lined the underside of my tank with reflective foil stuff like the MX teams, but didn't know that was the issue till later.
My SE also loved to boil its fuel.
I dressed the whole underside of the tank in reflective foil, and wrapped the fuel-lines with the covers used on the 1090/1290 etc. ( part# 60307016010)
Tried a reflective foil wrapping for the lines but didn't works as well as the KTM stuff.
Also consider swapping your fan thermostat for one with a lower engage-temp.
The PO wrapped the pipes on my SE with what looks like DEI titanium wrap. It works great on reducing temps amd unlike other exhaust wraps I've used doesn't retain mud etc.
Are you running a 2in1 exhaust or dual mufflers? Which muffler(S)? What is your state of tune? A lean bike will heat the shit out of the exhaust pipes...
I am looking at buying a 950 SE and the owner is telling me he removed a spacer on the top of the spring internally that has somehow lowered the front of the bike. It sounds like he removed a pre-load spacer to let the fork have more sag.
I am not familiar enough with the SE forks to know exactly what he did. Does anyone have an idea of what I am explaining? Are these pre-load spacers for sag? Can this be easily reversed? The bike has a SM rear shock, but comes with the SE shock, so I can go back to stock on the rear, but I want to be sure the front forks can be returned to stock easily.
The super enduro forks use 450mm long springs with about 19mm of plastic spacers above them for a total length of 469mm (I say about because when they build the forks, they will vary the spacer thicknesses to achieve the desired 469mm length). Sounds like the previous owner removed those to allow the forks to drop...I’m not convinced that removing them would achieve much drop but anyhow, super easy to restore...as for the shock, the SM and SE shock are the same except for the internal shim that varies in thickness between the SM and the SE (to limit the piston rod extension) and the spring on the SM is a 130 rate vs the SE’s 140 (but same length)...
Hope this helps
This helps a lot and I appreciate the reply. Sounds like I can add the shims to get the over all length back to forks.
One other follow up question is would installing a SM shock lower the SE? If you say they are the same length. What is the advantage or disadvantage of running the SM shock? I personally want it to be stock SE ride height.
The SE and SM are the same shock but the SM uses that internal shim I mentioned to limit the extension of the piston rod which essentially shortens the shock. I’ll bet that if your bike has an SM shock, it was installed with the intent of lowering the bike slightly. At the risk of upsetting your plans, something to consider would be using a shock from an adventure as it’s far superior to the SE/SM shock. This can be as simple as plug and play if you find the right Adv shock or it may require a bit of work by a competent shop to fit into your SE. I can give you more details but I believe there’s a dedicated thread on that subject that you’ll see many of my comments in.
Thank you, as the bike comes with the original SE shock Id probably take the simple route and reinstall it. Then make sure the front has the correct over all height. This bike is set up as an ADV bike. It has Safari Tank plus the rear sub tank as well as racks for panniers etc. so it will have added weight and be used to travel.
I want all the suspension I can get.
Do you have any advice for a novice SE owner? Its not mine yet, but I am considering it and want to be prepared as best I can to set the suspension up original and correct.
Advice regarding suspension? As I said, an Adv shock will transform an SE. the original super enduro shock is not worth wasting one penny on in my opinion.
Copy that. I will search for more information about that. In the mean while you think the stock SE shock will be sufficient over the SM?
Well if you want to restore the bike’s original height than swapping in the SE shock seems like a no brainer to me.
The stock SE shock is probably more capable than most of us riders.