950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

Discussion in 'KTM 950/990' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. zolo

    zolo Moto Patagonia Tours and Rentals in Chile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    169
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    Puerto Varas Chile
    Yeah, kinda what I was thinking. I'd have to ride it for a while before making suspension changes I'd imagine.

    Thanks for the helps guy's
    nk14zp likes this.
  2. johnny2bad

    johnny2bad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2013
    Oddometer:
    126
    Location:
    Vancouver, Canada
    I am having some recent issues and am hoping the hive mind has had some experience:

    1. Rear Brake loss.
    I have experienced rear brake loss some what frequently before, usually from boiling my brakes on a long decent. The usual mitigation has helped, new fluid every 3 months and use the high temp Motul Racing Fluid Dot 4 and I added the Slaven's Racing finned banjo bolt for some bling. It all sort of worked.

    Currently I am loosing all pressure after about 10 hours. There are no obvious leaks and fluid level is not dropping. I adjusted the pedal lower to make sure I wasn't dragging, but same result. On Friday I attended a Chris Birch riding course and lost rear brake within 3 hours. Rear brake modulation was part of the drills but so was stopping and watching him so it wasn't continuous.

    Could the master cylinder be leaking internally and letting air in to the system. When I bleed the rear, there are some small bubbles in the fluid.

    Is there a m/s rebuild kit or do the bores typically wear out and need replacement?

    2. Garbage Idle:
    Bike is set up with a SW7 filter, wings dual exhaust, factory pro jets and needles, kick stand bypass, optical switch instead of points on fuel pump mod ( Dr Beans?). Until recently it was running VERY nice, I think it was a little rich as it smelled gassy but it was really crisp of the bottom, I could hit more things in second that I would normally do in first, let it lug down a bit, then crack the throttle and power out. Really liked it. I usually ride between 0 and 5000 ft.

    Slowly it started to flame out at stop lights, usually after idling for 30 seconds or so. I did recent trip on higher elevation ride above 6000 ft and started pinging, idle was hanging, intermittent farting and popping and stalling at idle. When I dropped back down below 5000 it returned to normal until yesterday ( again at the Chris Birch Course at 1000ft) it again started popping and carb backfiring and stalling at idle. It still pulls strong, but my butt dyno thinks that 6th gear wide open throttle isn't what it used to be. I haven't made any changes recently. I was very thorough with cleaning the carbs when I changed the jetting.

    I can start with the basics: clean filter, change plug, take carbs apart

    Is there a likely culprit?

    Thanks
  3. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

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    Livin' in the 90's
    Does anyone know where I can order just the little screens for the fuel petcocks? OEM fiche looks like you have to buy the whole assembly. Not that big of a deal at under $20 ea., but would be nice to order just the screens..
  4. Maoule

    Maoule Long timer Supporter

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    1,664
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    KCMO
    I took shit apart today in preparation for my Tripleclamp boob filter. Whilst in there figured I’d checked the valves...they were all in spec (kinda on the loose side) except the front right and rear left exhaust valves were @ .35 mm. I kinda don’t want to risk stripping or snapping off a bridge bolt for two shims that are loose anyway.
    Any cause for performance concerns once the new filter is installed?
    alvincullumyork likes this.
  5. bemiiten

    bemiiten League of Adventures

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,588
    Location:
    Hamilton NJ.
    A
    Knock offs for half the price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JG2ZPXD/ref=psdc_404763011_t3_B07449H7M8
  6. Helibee

    Helibee Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    379
    I think the context of how the bike's are being used is fitting.

    I ran the stock shock for several thousand miles and it didn't take me too long to want better dampening. Sent it to Konflict for a revalve and a progressive spring. It made a noticeable difference in ride comfort but still was lacking when pushed in particular instances.

    I happened along Alon's informative post regarding the adventure shock compatibility. Having one for a different build, I sent it to Konflict and what returned is night and day comparably. I can liken it to the difference my HD2500 pickup rides with and without a load in the bed. It's stiff and jarring without weight, but put 700# in the back and all those previously jarring bumps disappear.

    The adventure shock is very plush and doesn't seem to pack in quick successive bumps like the stock shock did. To say I'm pleased is an understatement. The stock shock may be more capable than I am, but I don't care. The adventure shock makes for a more comfortable and able ride.
  7. Axalta2556

    Axalta2556 If your gonna be dumb.. you better be tough!!

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2018
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    NC
    I broke my rear foot brake lever.. looking for a replacement preferably black/orange prob go ahead and replace the shifter while I’m at it! These will take some abuse along the way so I don’t want to spend a fortune on them.. what are some options or suggestions???
  8. Maoule

    Maoule Long timer Supporter

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    Depending where and how it broke, have it welded. If you’re prone to dirt naps or riding through boulder fields, it’ll keep breaking. I had mine welded with gussets 5 or 6 yrs ago and it’s still on there, mind you, I haven’t tested it in a dirt nap sort of way.
  9. bemiiten

    bemiiten League of Adventures

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    Jul 10, 2003
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    5,588
    Location:
    Hamilton NJ.
    Not cheap, but available. https://www.cleanspeedeng.com/?page_id=31
    outbacktm likes this.
  10. SpeedyR

    SpeedyR SE in the SE

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,920
    Location:
    ATL, GA
    Rear wheel bearings....

    6205-2rs for the hubs, can anyone confirm this size for me? Riding in WV and seems to be the spec/size from parts fiche. 25x52x15mm

    Also there’s one in the carrier. Does this one go bad very often? And anyone have this part number?

    Rear wheel is toast. Got two of the 6205 bearings locally and will attempt to install in the morning. Hopefully it’s not the carrrier bearing as I didn’t get one of them and not sure what size.

    TIA
  11. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    Mar 9, 2005
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    13,897
    Location:
    Mill Spring, NC

    Parts fische shows the sprocket carrier bearings are 6006
    SpeedyR likes this.
  12. GezwindeSpoed

    GezwindeSpoed Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    974
    Location:
    The land of the Dutchmen
    Carrier indeed 6006 twice and hub 2x 6505
  13. Maoule

    Maoule Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,664
    Location:
    KCMO
    6205
    Boatman likes this.
  14. GezwindeSpoed

    GezwindeSpoed Been here awhile

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    Jan 15, 2009
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    974
    Location:
    The land of the Dutchmen
    I tried to make it clear..... but I failed. 6205 is the right one
  15. SpeedyR

    SpeedyR SE in the SE

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,920
    Location:
    ATL, GA
    thanks for the help guys. I was able to find the 2 6205 bearings in Williamson WV but with help of a fantastic local rider, we were able to disassemble things but it was too mangled to fix on the spot. End of trip. I'm back home now and will start to tear into the rear hub and see if it's torn into the hub itself. The center spacer was gouged out pretty well, and the side space on the brake side was ovaled as well. Wasn't able to get the outer bearing race out (nothing left of the inside and only about 5 bearings were found). We were quite a way from a road at the point of failure (and even the point of noticing as issue as it went downhill VERY fast) so had no choice but to ride the bike 2-3 hours back to pavement and town. Looks like I need parts 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 at a minimum from the parts fiche (or just get 99 as it has everything to rebuild the rear hub.

    Just FYI at the beginning of the trip pretty sure there was zero play at the rear hub. I had 2 rides on the MotoZ rear tire and usually check bearings when I change tires. I hit one mud hole in particular and immediately noticed a grinding in the rear wheel. Thought I had a rock or something stuck in the chain, brake, or some where in the rear. Got off the bike and rolled it back and forth but didn't see anything. Rode back to my friends and it mostly went away. but still some grinding every so often (probably the mud that I assume got past the seals and into the bearings). About 30 minutes later, got off and lifted the rear of the bike to spin the wheel and notice a slight amount of play side to side (like a few mm). Decided to head on as there wasn't much option at that point. ran thru the next section of dirt at higher speeds and probably splashed thru some smaller mud puddles but not anything deep (like dirt road 3rd gear puddles). then hit rain and pavement and stopped for lunch. put some lube on chain thinking maybe the chain had a kind. play not much different, but after the next section (heading towards the closest town that had a motorcycle dealer) it was definitely worse. rode the next hour or so at steady throttle in first and second gear (dirt road kinda stuff) and avoiding as much obstacles as possible). Got into the town and it was feeling and sounding pretty bad.

    Hoping I didn't trash the hub, will tear into it tomorrow and see if I can cut the outer race out, and see if the inside of the hub is worn down. Wish me luck!
  16. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

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    Livin' in the 90's
    Anyone know if a Fastway steering damper will work with the Safari tank?

    I saw something where they specifically mention Scott's damper works, but was wondering if there was an interference issue with the Fastway setup.
  17. WSobchak

    WSobchak Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,068
    Location:
    North Central Washington
    Any good options for an air filter other than the sporting wood set up?

    Most of my poor throttle response/popping & backfire on decel/poor performance was due to super dirty carbs. The sporting wood set up had some leaky spots where the intake stacks meet the other mounting pieces. I coated the joints in silicone grease to help seal things up but I'd like a filter set up with fewer potential failure points.

    Thanks to @big jer for the help!
  18. Helibee

    Helibee Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    379
    Your solution from Tripleclamp Moto!

    https://www.tripleclampmoto.com/col...cts/tripleclamp-moto-racing-air-filter-system
  19. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
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    Livin' in the 90's
    I kniw I saw someone ask about the carb vent orings a few pages back, found the post, but Im unclear as to weather the vent, and inlet orings are the same size.

    If different, could someone in the know give me the sizes of both please?

    Also, any reason to leave this vent hose the way it is rather than swap it out for a vacuum cap?

    20190721_155014.jpg
    SpeedyR likes this.
  20. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    Aug 28, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,888
    Location:
    SouthWest (AZ)
    O-rings same size. Work in both fuel inlet and vents.

    If bike is running fine with vents plugged you can remove the hose and go with the cap.
    BK.RD.RNR likes this.