950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    I converted my 950 Adv soon after I got it to single many years ago. Used an aftermarket pipe meant for an 1150GS so I know the flow was enough. Never could get the jetting just right and lived with a little less on the top end. (Bike would still do well over 110mph). Recently I decided the muffler needed a repack and pulled it of only to find my 2-1 had a rot problem at the hanger bracket. So I decided being that I had all the parts to put it back to 2-2 with Wings mufflers I would just go that way. Figured I'd have to mess with the jetting again but was shocked that it seems to be pretty much spot on. Pulls like a freight train. I even find myself shifting earlier than before.

    Just an observation about the 2-1.
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  2. SpeedyR

    SpeedyR SE in the SE

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    anyone have a preference for rear brake rotor for the SE? have a spare wheel I need to outfit with a brake rotor. or anyone have an OE one they aren't using?
  3. Whodatschrome

    Whodatschrome Long timer

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    I have heard that running a 2 into 1 can (will?) start to melt down aluminum mufflers, such as the aluminum FMFs. Maybe that's why you haven't seen 2 into 1 pics with FMFs...because most of the 950 FMF's are aluminum and not Ti?
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  4. Snowq

    Snowq Been here awhile

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    I ran 2-1 on my SE, after riding long and hard the can itself wasn't particularly warm.
    I could still use it as a handwarmer when taking a rest :thumbup
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  5. t-dub

    t-dub Been here awhile

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    I use Galfer DF782FLW rotors with good result. About to put on a new one since I am under spec at 4.3mm. Anyone run below without any ill effect if I wanted to get more mileage?
  6. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    I’ve run many different dual mufflers as well as several 2in1 systems on my SE with various stages of tuning. Safe to say I’ve pretty much tried them all...some people say you get more bottom end grunt and lose some top end with going to a 2in1 but I’m not convinced that’s necessarily true. Here’s what I can share and I’ve applied some simple logic and physics to draw my own conclusions:
    1 - yes, there’s obviously some weight savings to be had with going to a 2in1...pretty obvious
    2- the original header outlets and the inlets of the stock link pipe are roughly 42mm in diameter. They flow straight into any bolt on mufflers (those using the KtM three bolt flange) with roughly the same muffler inlet diameter and the stock link pipe has a crossover pipe for cylinder exhaust balancing. Don’t underestimate that balancing pipe...anyhow to me, it doesn’t seem to make sense to take two inlets of 42mm and smash them together into a single 42mm outlet and then go into one single muffler with the same 42mm inlet diameter without expecting some level of additional back pressure. Yes, some will argue that additional back pressure will change the power curve and increase bottom end but I’ve never felt or seen dyno evidence of that...in fact I’ve also seen a reduction of “power”.

    So with that said (at least in my mind), the right way to build a 2in1 system is to use a link pipe that connects to the two 42mm header pipes, is shaped optimally for flow and its outlet (and matching muffler inlet and internal pipe) should all match...simple calculation of area shows that 2 x 42mm have approximately the same area is a 1 x 56mm so by that logic alone, the correct system (to match flow) should have 2 x 42mm inlets and 1 x 56mm outlet. This is not exact science as there are other factors that need to be considered including the shape of the link pipe and how/where the two join, etc. Yes of course, whatever muffler is used needs to be carefully considered because it needs to withstand the LC8 exhaust pulses.

    I have had a custom 2in1 link pipe made which has the inlets to match the stock headers and it exits into a single 54mm outlet. The muffler I’m using has a matching 54mm inlet diameter and it’s length has been calculated to match the LC8 pulses. It work very very well.

    I do know that Remus used to supply a 2in1 system for the adventure (don’t think they made any for the SE but I could be wrong) and it used a larger outlet as I’ve described above (not sure of actual outlet diameter).
    Rottweiler’s system is also based on a larger outlet as is his supplied Yoshimura muffler. I think his pipe flows exceedingly well and it’s beautifully made. Personally I don’t like the muffler (personal choice) but I think given it’s inlet matches the link pipe’s outlet that it flows very well.

    So what? Well...when I’ve used the traditional 2in1 link pipes available from multiple suppliers with standard length Akrapovic, shortened (by 9cm) Akrapovic,
    A KtM powerparts titanium FMF and even a Wings and the results were less power overall and immense heat from the link pipe itself...enough to turn it colours. Yes, the bike was rejetted and yes it worked but I do strongly believe the heat was due to the flow constriction / lack of efficiency in the link pipe and single muffler with that small inlet diameter. Simply put, if you have two pipes and combine them, you have to expect some reduction in flow efficiency. Yes, many people will comment on how they’ve run the traditional 2in1 forever without issues so this shouldn’t turn into a fight. I’m just sharing my point of view based on my own experience.

    Hope this helps...
  7. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    I’ve tried several brands on various bikes over the years and even worked with a brake disc manufacturer to produce some for me about two years ago. To date, I’ve yet to find anything better than the Moto-Master flame series floating front and solid rear discs. These are direct fit on the SE and were designed by Moto-Master for the KtM factory rally bikes.
    DC50FE45-1A31-4006-90EB-94A2ABE686B5.jpg 0626E0A0-992C-4C6E-94EC-B086B781E872.jpg
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  8. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    I see your running the red rear brake pads, they have been my go to for a while now for the rear also, and the blacks up front.
    Are the reds still in your favor or are you still using them, and do you have a favorite for the fronts?
  9. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    Red front and rear are my go-to :)
  10. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    :thumbup
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  11. Duane1969

    Duane1969 Been here awhile

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    Who makes the red pads?
  12. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    EBC
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  13. Bearded Hooligan

    Bearded Hooligan Moto Addict

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    Thanks for this! Very timely as I was searching for new rear rotor today. Best price on the rear Motomaster is $99 through some quick searching. Anyone have a better line than that? Ill be servicing the rear wheel soon. New bearings, chain and sprockets, rotor and pads.
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  14. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

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    I dont know if its better but its cheap. I have two sets of wheels and had two rotors that had needed to be replaced. Both front and rear are working good.


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY2LB7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  15. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

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    Thanks to @alongat and the others who replied to my 2 into 1 question. Some sound thought out logical reasoning.
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  16. Duane1969

    Duane1969 Been here awhile

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    Thanks!:thumbup
  17. Drwnite

    Drwnite Adventurer

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    Does anyone have pannier racks they'd care to part with? TIA.
  18. alongat

    alongat Fesh Fesh

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    @Boatman probably has some
  19. Drwnite

    Drwnite Adventurer

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    Cheers Al, we've been down this road mate!
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