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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by toglhot, Aug 10, 2020.
Lovely detail work.
The TX650 comes with a silly twin cable throttle, one for each carb. That went in the bin, so I bought a single cable hand throttle and looked around for a two into one cable junction box. All I could find was plastic and steel ones with no way of mounting them, so they just flop around under the tank with the cable.
Unhappy with that idea, i decided to make my own. I used a small slab of ally, bored it to 14mm, tapped either end with a 5/8" UNF thread on the lathe to a depth of 10 mm, milled a step and drilled two. 6mm holes for mounting to the upper engine mounts. I then machined up two end caps, one with two cable inlets, the other with a single cable inlet, cut a 5/8" UNF thread in each and ran the scissor knurler over them. Only the second time I've used the scissor knurler since I made it a few years ago.
The end caps have O rings fitted, as the unit will utilise an oil or grease bath for lubrication. Next I turned up a 14 x 25mm brass slide to join the three cables. The brass slide slides side to side inside the main body. I had to drill three 1.5mm holes through the slide, then countersink them with a 3.2mm bit for the cable nipples. This job has come up very nice, still have to use a slit saw to cut three grooves in the brass slide so I can slot the cables in place. Unsure of what finish I'll use on it. As it's out of the way, under the tank, I'll probably stick it in my anodising bath.
That's the type of unseen detail that matters. Well done!
The fittings finally came for the cooler. Fitted them so the remote filter and cooler are now completed.
Very nice indeed.
Turned up a couple of these today, they're cable adjusters for my TX650 build. 8mm stainless rod, turned down to 6.36mm for the threaded end. I cheated a little bit on the thread: Ran a 1/4" UNF button die for about 15mm on the lathe to get the thread straight, then transferred the piece to the vice to finish off the 40mm long thread. Knurled the thumb pieced with my homemade scissor knurler then drilled through with a 3mm bit, followed by a 5.5mm bit for a depth of 12mm to take a cable. Still have to make a bracket to bolt to each carb, but this'll allow very fine adjusting when syncing the carbs. These will thread over the inner cable before the nipple is molded in place.
Lovely stuff. What a fantastic jewel you are building. Especially considering your physical limitations not to mention being in Australia!....you guys are the BEST at making stuff.
That is some very nice, crisp knurling. I may need a scissor knurling tool.
To have even half of your skills...
Pushed the starter button this afternoon and the TX roared into life, very loudly with those pipes. So, the single points cam works beautifully. PMA conversion works well as does the dual output coil, cable splitter, remote filter, cooler and ignition wiring. It's running a little lean at the moment due to the pods and exhaust, so I'll have to rejet before syncing. Very happy chappy.
Congratulations! You do great work. This is an amazingly detailed build. Thank you for your efforts.
I'd sure like to ride that, even just around the block!
If you've set the float level in your carbs and want to check the actual fuel level , you'll need to access the float bowl. Most bike carbs have a plug on the bottom for emptying the fuel. If you have a spare plug, mount it in your lathe chuck and drill a suitable size hole through it. Don't have a lathe? Too easy mount the plug in the bench drill chuck and a drill underneath in a drill vice, or something similar and drill a hole through the plug. Don't have a bench drill? Too easy, mount the plug in your hand drill and the drill in a vice and drill through. Do not place a drill bit in the drill and drill through the plug, the hole will not go through centrally. If you want an accurate size hole, always use a pilot close to the finish size hole first, yes, even with very small holes. You'll need to either use a centre drill or centre pop the plug first. Then find a barb to plug in the hole, drill the through hole using the same method. For a leak proof join you'll need a barb10mm bigger than the hole. For example a 4.5 mm drill is actually somewhere around 4.34mm and drills a hole around 4.5mm or slightly smaller using pilot first, so you'll need a barb around .10mm bigger. You can turn it down on a lathe, or, turn to size using a drill and file.
Minor typo correction.
The word 'around' is there for a reason. "Around' means you can go bigger or smaller depending on the fit you want, the material being used and the method used to fit the barb.
Yes, agreed, but originally you'd written 10mm bigger than the hole!
That'd give a really tight fit!
Lovely details, well done and sounds delightful. Is the crank phasing stock or has it been modified to a 270 degree crank?
A friend of mine built an SX650 after I told him it could be phased to run like V-twin instead of a parallel twin. His too, starts easily, idles great, and sounds more like a Ducati v-twin than any Yamaha parallel twin.
No, I prefer 360 degree twins, so no rephasing. Besides that, it's supposed to be a budget build, hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Just be sure to enjoy it on the road and not just as a lovely bit of classic cycle shop jewelry. Ride em, don't hide em!