a long, long XS650 project.

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by toglhot, Aug 10, 2020.

  1. Mr. Fixit

    Mr. Fixit Reevaluating

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8,141
    Location:
    SWVA
    Thank you for sharing all of this. It shows that a whole lot can be done without all kinds of CNC and 3D printers. Lovely work.
    AK650 likes this.
  2. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Did some more buffing on the front rim, came up reasonably well, I ground the edge down and managed to get rid of the lever marks, but as you can see in pic four the pitting is very bad and very deep, no way of getting rid of that. Pic five is the rear rim. I still have to grind down the edge of the rim to remove the lever marks. Very badly pitted and the area between the nipple lands is very uneven. I'll attack that next but not sure if I'll use them, whilst they look nice and shiny , get up to within a few inches of them and the pitting doesn't look nice. More procrastination required I think.

    Attached Files:

    zzzak, villageidiot and AK650 like this.
  3. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    And the rear rim, came out better than I expected. I used an air belt sander to try and even out the area between spoke holes, doesn't look too bad now. It has a couple of damaged bits still evident which I'll try and resolve with a nylon fibre wheel. I may just use these I think, will look good once spoked up to polished hubs with polished spokes. I'm polishing the exposed edges on the aluminium wheels also, once I've painted them and exposed the polished edges I'll compare them. Still not keen on a fat 16" at the rear though.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, Scoozi, AK650 and 1 other person like this.
  4. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    How to remove tyres with two stuffed hands: Squash tyre in vice to break seal, apply F clamp, repeat several times, insert tyre lever, add 2' extension and pull like hell. I also polished one side of the front alloy wheel. Cast aluminium is a bit harder to get a mirror shine on compared to billet, so I didn't spend a lot of time on it. Should look a lot better when painted black and shiny surfaces exposed. I probably won't be using the ally wheels, whilst they look ok, a big fat 16" wheel tyre is just not my cup of tea, so I'll more than likely sell them later on.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, zzzak and mrsdnf like this.
  5. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    What a waste of time that was: Cleaned up the wheels, polished the spokes and rims and painted the rest, I thought they might look good on this bike, not to be though, they look bloody awful! I won't worry fixing the rear wheel, waste of time. Very disappointing, looks like it's going to be polished hubs, rims and stainless spokes.

    Attached Files:

  6. Mr. Fixit

    Mr. Fixit Reevaluating

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8,141
    Location:
    SWVA
    Agreed. Those are American style cruiser wheels that go with a stepped seat and high bars. The spoke wheels will look far better.
  7. zzzak

    zzzak Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,743
    Location:
    Narrandera
    Never really liked mags and as for 16" rears, no, just say no.
  8. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Ignition switch bracket finished off today. I've re sited the switch to the front, under the tank by the headstock. I also bought a small horn as the original doesn't work anymore, despite fiddling with it for hours. The horn mounts on top the ignition switch bracket. I'm using a two pole, single position Narva ignition switch. To tidy things up a bit I turned up a Delrin collar which fits over the threaded part of the switch and a cover which snaps over the collar from the rear. To prevent the cover falling off, I turned a groove inside the cover which snaps over a .8mm high raised ring I turned up on the collar. The cover isn't fully home in the picture, it has very tight tolerances to prevent it working it's way loose, so is very difficult to remove. I still have to re route the plug lead a little to avoid getting a boot when switching off.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, nostep, villageidiot and 3 others like this.
  9. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    I made up a steel tail light bracket a while back, but it was awfully heavy, so today I messed around with welding up an aluminium one. I did try bending up a bracket, but it was impossible to get the thing straight and square, so ended up welding four pieces of aluminium together for the tail light bracket proper. The steel one is one piece as it was going to be painted, but being as the aluminium one will be polished and there was no way of getting into all the nooks and crannies to polish it if one piece, I made it in two parts: The plate bracket and the tail light bracket proper which sits on top. It still mounts to the mudguard via the 38mm grommet and aluminium bung, but is much, much lighter. The steel bracket comes in at 264grams, whereas the aluminium bracket is only 110 grams, despite being made of thicker material. Doesn't sound like much, but being as the mudguard has been cut down it is now devoid of the double wall edge all around, so a little less stiffer. I don't want too much weight on it, 110grams is bugger all. All I have to do now is hope I can polish it and retain the flat surfaces.

    Attached Files:

    • tl0.jpg
      tl0.jpg
      File size:
      377.1 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tl4.jpg
      tl4.jpg
      File size:
      443.3 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tl1.jpg
      tl1.jpg
      File size:
      651.5 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tl2.jpg
      tl2.jpg
      File size:
      390.5 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tll3.jpg
      tll3.jpg
      File size:
      390.5 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tl6.jpg
      tl6.jpg
      File size:
      270.2 KB
      Views:
      27
    • tl5.jpg
      tl5.jpg
      File size:
      310.7 KB
      Views:
      27
    bigride, nostep, villageidiot and 2 others like this.
  10. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Offline for a few days: Had the dip joint fused and PIP joint broken and re-pinned and fused again at a more usable angle. Might make working on the bike a bit easier.

    Attached Files:

    nostep, mrsdnf and zzzak like this.
  11. Mr. Fixit

    Mr. Fixit Reevaluating

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8,141
    Location:
    SWVA
    I'm always amazed at what you accomplish with such limited hand mobility. Good on you, sir!
    nostep and villageidiot like this.
  12. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Yet another stand, or at least a modification to one. I was finding it a bit of a stretch working on the top of the bike, trees, bars, switches and so on and the bike takes over the hole bench, making it difficult to work on anything else. So, I turned down a couple of axles from 20mm bar and welded them underneath the stand and added a couple of cheap 10" wheels. So I can move it around the shop and the bench is available for other projects now.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, zzzak, mrsdnf and 1 other person like this.
  13. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Such is the form I'm after. I laced the rims with a few spokes just to see what it'd look like, quite happy with the form, although, I might lower the seat cowl a bit and paint the side panels. Interesting thing with the switchgear: I bought a couple of switchblocks on ebay, the right side has a throttle sleeve allowance, which I didn't want and the add said nothing about. So I asked the seller if they had a throttle sleeve to fit, nope, they don't. Couldn't find one to fit, so got my money back, binned the two switchblocks and bought two, two switch switchblocks which look quite neat. I also have on order a couple of rear clamps for both clutch and brake levers with integral, momentary switches which will be for horn and starter..

    Attached Files:

    • a.jpg
      a.jpg
      File size:
      364.6 KB
      Views:
      36
    • c.jpg
      c.jpg
      File size:
      468.6 KB
      Views:
      39
    • e.jpg
      e.jpg
      File size:
      492.5 KB
      Views:
      36
    bigride, nostep, mrsdnf and 1 other person like this.
  14. zzzak

    zzzak Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,743
    Location:
    Narrandera
    Looking really good.
  15. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Finished off the tail light this afternoon. Had to make it in two pieces so I could polish it. Couple of imperfections, pinholes, you can see in the last picture on the left hand side by the bend. Didn't come up as good as I wanted, I'll probably have another shot at making another a bit further down the track.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, Scoozi and mrsdnf like this.
  16. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    I had the sutures removed this morning. Had to put work on hold a couple of days ago as I was managing to hit the finger on every single thing in my workshop. The surgeon removed the pin from the PIP joint, broke it, then bent it in a more acute angle as per my instructions, then pinned it again. He also pinned the DIP joint, the smaller one at the end, so that will gradually fuse over the next few months. Hopefully the finger will be more usable after these couple of alterations. Still quite swollen and unusable at the moment and probably for the next six weeks or so. Compliments of Psoriatic arthritis which is gradually destroying all my joints.

    Attached Files:

  17. zzzak

    zzzak Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,743
    Location:
    Narrandera
    I hope it all goes well for you.
    nostep and Fast Idle like this.
  18. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2019
    Oddometer:
    1,252
    Location:
    Lost between the Dandenongs and Yarra Valley
    Like zzzak said. All the best toglhot.
    nostep and Fast Idle like this.
  19. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Some painting today, painted the rear guard, tail light, seat cowl and kickstand. It all came out pretty good, I'll stick it all together tomorrow and have a look. Undecided on whether to use the painted or ally tail light, probably the ally to break up the black. The singer crapped itself, so I'll have to farm out the seat upholstery. I hate farming work out, tradesmen are just too rough and their work leaves a lot to be desired. Hopefully they won't scratch the hell out of the cowl.

    Attached Files:

    bigride, mrsdnf and Mr. Fixit like this.
  20. toglhot

    toglhot Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2020
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    AUSTRALIA
    Can't make up my mind, black one or ally one???

    Attached Files: