A True "Water Cool" GSA story of Recovery and Redemption: Yukon't make it up!!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by ExodusRider, Jul 8, 2019.

  1. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Don't be afraid !!

    In some ways, this experience has been much more valuable than the money I spent recovering her.
    Though, cost-wise to get her going started to add up abit..

    A quick tally of cost:

    1) $400 storage fee for salvage yard
    2) $500 for 2 x 1-way flight Seattle/Houston ( I made a little vacation of it, visiting friends/ family - so not a complete loss).
    3) $600 for gas to bring her back to Seattle from Yukon
    4) $600 to ship her back to Houston from Seattle
    5) $2000 to fix my buddy's truck..
    6) $1500 in replacement parts
    7) a few hundred man hours and elbow grease..

    I did't count any of the upgrades such as Woody Wheels as those were luxury items which I knew I could reuse on my other GSes..

    On the flip side, I was able to retrieve back some expensive gear that included:
    1) my brand new $700 Chiappa M6 Excalibur Survival 12 gauge over 22 caliber dual barrel rifle. Outside of a few rusty spots, she's fine and dandy.
    She fit diagonally inside the left pannier. I just then stuff clothes and dry stuff around her. Canada has a rifle weapons form permit ($35) that lets you bring the rifle across in transit to Alaska (for hunting and protection/security), though it doesn't seem to apply to the Eastern Side of Canada.. weird.


    2) the NAV5 GPS unit.
    This thing has won me over. It's not the faster / best GPS on the market but had bought it $800 brand new when I got the bike. The fact I was able to use it on multiple BWMs made it feasible. I have dropped it twice on the freeway @ 50 mph (when it was mounted on my other bikes w/ Ram Mount instead of the OEM BMW mount) and it had survived the falls.

    It stayed under water for 24 hrs, sat out in the salvage yard for a month ( luckily, in the Yukon, it doesn't get that hot or cold in July / August months ).
    Brought it home, used CRC electronic cleaner.. cleaned any holes I could find after opening the back battery cover.. let her dry a few days, plugged her in to charge for a full day.
    I didn't have high hopes for this one. Powered her up and I'll be damned... she worked just as great as the day I got her.. that's freaking impressive.

    She's still running fine (w/ new maps and updates) on one of my 2017 Rallyes. Now if I can get my other adv equipment to be that rugged / resilient!

    3) 2 x GoPro5 both still in good shape.
    4) Dell M3800 thin Laptop ( was able to savage the data of the drive but motherboard and battery was shot).
    5) Other camping equipment / tools, etc.

    So recovery of the gear help offset the cost substantially as well.

    Of course, when I got to the bike, there was still 2 or 3 inches of water at bottom of panniers so you can imagine the stench, rotting, rusting that was going on during the 30 days of salvage storage. I should have dumped everything out to dry when we dropped bike off to salvage, but my mind was set on physical recovery of body at that point. Pretty much just dropped bike off and signed release document.

    Anyhow, the lessons learned by doing it yourself, the stories, the experiences, etc.. has made it so worth the hassle and the knowledge I gained from this has helped me throughout all the amazing trips I have taken since.. include my rides across Russia, Mongolia to North Korea, Iran, The Himalayas in Nepa, all of South East Asia. The confidence of being mechanically adept when riding through remote places in foreign countries sure is a valuable thing.

    Let's think about this.. I essentially had a brand new WC R1200 GSA that I could now officially dive deep into for maintenance, repairs, seeing how things work; a guinea pig without the fear of voiding warranties, breaking shit, etc. At that point, it was an opportunity to learn with the latest / greatest without the risk .. brilliant setup if you ask me !
  2. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    When I left for the trip, I started w/ slightly over 6500 miles. When I crashed her, she was right pass 10k miles if my mind serves me right..

    Odometer currently reads 28,154 miles. I've taken her down to Baja, California and back.. up to Colorado / Utah a few times as well just across the US in general.
    She's also a bit of my slut bike. Any time my friends or an international motorcyclist comes to visit, she's the one I let them take down to the beach or around town.

    In my mind, she's a free bike if you will; and since I've gotten to know her intimately, I have no qualms of taking her internationally.. say.. all the way down to Argentina.. and even into Brazil.

    If I get robbed or if bike gets stolen; I wouldn't think twice of walking away and wouldn't have a great sense of loss.. know what I mean?

    My only complaint with taking her internationally is that these GSAs are really wide / bulky at lower speeds.. which you encounter a lot of in 2nd/ 3rd world countries; so a bit of a hassle trying to get them maneuvered into tight parking spots at hotels, etc..
  3. Massabusa

    Massabusa Been here awhile Supporter

    May 14, 2009
    MA USA
    Great adventure! Loved the video too- thanks for sharing!
  4. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    A shout out to the good people of the ADV world:

    Before I begin detailing the steps I took to restore this beauty, let me shout out to the resources I used to do so.

    1) First, the BMW folks have provided an amazing collection of detailed steps / documentations in their service manual DVD that practically allows you to take your bike apart / reassemble it back together... almost. I used it extensively to take almost everything apart; including the main / engine wire harness, ABS Modules, etc..

    While it's an incredible amount of information there, it's tricky some times on how to locate what you need.. do yourself a favor, get an updated copy of the service DVD which covers your bike model(s) and make it a point to learn how to navigate to locate your components, service areas / tasks, and technical specs like tighten torques, where to apply thread lockers, sequence of steps, etc.

    Think I got the iso download off ebay for $25-30.00 USD. Worth every penny. If in doubt, hit the DVD.. many of us get lazy and don't check it; ought to be the first if not one of the first to hit.

    2) A personal big shout out to @JimVonBaden (http://jimvonbaden.com/). One of the top notch GS maintenance repository out there. He's done so much for the community. I found his videos and eventually his site when researching GS maintenance off YouTube. Obviously very active on ADV when guys are posting questions on GSPot, etc. When Jim speaks, I listen.. Thank you for all you do there, JimVB!!

    3) YouTubes and ADV forums were the other 2 resources I used quite a bit in tracking things down, getting clarity on certain steps, etc.

    4) Lastly, just googling of course.. a plethora (my $2 dollar word of the day) of information abound from guys that have done it all and are glad to share that knowledge.

    The adventure motorbike community in general one of the best out there; open, friendly, and eager to provide advice and directions to almost all thing motorbikes.. among other things lol. KUDO MOTO!
  5. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    I want my Baby Back, Baby Back!:

    Fast Forward to end of 2015, she finally gets shipped home after Thanksgiving holidays.
    1) First thing I did was charged up the battery.

    2) Took the Gas Tank off to dump the old gas/water and clean the tank.. filling back up with 93 Octane gas. I should have also used SeaForm or some other cleaning type additive.


    What I forgot when I picked up the supplies to start this project is Cocktail Sauce. It would turn out that I needed that as well.

    There were a handful of these shrimp / krill looking critters hitching a ride to Houston. Luckily, I don't think they actually got into the tank itself.



    I took the $1500 LED head assembly out and drained / dried it out as much as I could. Must have used 2 cans of CRC Electronic Cleaner.

    In fact, I pretty much took off any / all connector contact points I could find, sprayed copious amount of stuff on it and let the bike sit out to dry for a few days.


    There was a cracked piece of glass in the LED assembly.. as much cleaning and attempts I tried, the LED assembly was shot, wasn't able to bring it back to life.

    I didn't bother saving the ECU / control module of the LED housing either.. not sure if that could have been salvaged. I did manage to find a used WC standard halogen light assembly ($250) off ebay and upgraded with a Cyclop LED kit ($189).

    Was able to salvage the Auxiliary LEDs as well but ultimately just upgraded those with RUN-D 30watt LEDs driven first by an on/off switch, then presently by the Ez-CanBus control module.

    overtone and Perth305 like this.
  6. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Errors in the System:

    These were the primary errors I was seeing on the dashboard:

    1) LAMP
    Clearly the headlight was out.
    The brake lights, all 4 signal lights seemed to be okay, along with the LED Auxiliary lights.

    2) ESA
    The ESA would not shift out of Normal to Soft / Hard.. or from single mode to Single w/ Luggage or 2-up w/ Luggage.

    Ultimately, it would turn out to be the rear shock ESA motor going out.. even though front/ rear shocks physically were fine; So the suspension stayed in the default "normal mode"
    No visible leaking of oil or lost of suspension during the test rides...

    But I wanted to make sure everything was dried out / cleaned as best possible.
    The painstaking tasks of dissembling all the crash bars, fairings, brackets, etc. needed to come first.

    Silly me that I didn't catch why the front beak was shifted a little and just lazily trimmed off some of the plastic to reinstall it easily. It was much later that I realized the underlying bracket itself had sustained some damage when the bike fell off the tow truck as it was being pulled out of the lake onto the truck's ramp.


    Off with the Tank to be cleaned / cleared:

    Off with the robotic form of the Air Intake Housing


    She's starting to look really anorexic at this point:

    I disconnected the following modules to clean the contacts on both ends w/ the E-cleaning solution then some CRC dielectric grease around the connector to seal / waterproof the connections.

    1) Main ECU / Control Module - Directly under the rider seat.
    Main brain of the bike, fuel management, system control, VIN association and ignition key matching.

    2) The Basic Module - Left side of bike behind the battery housing
    I'm assuming secondary / auxiliary controls of bike functions. Not exactly sure which functions though.
    3) ESA Module - Under the rider seat, behind the battery plastic housing ( in front of the rear shock assembly)
    Responsible for determining suspension calculations and adjustments.

  7. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    She lives !!!

    I systematically from front to back (and back to front) walked through the bike and disconnected every single connection I could find and spray cleaned it with E-cleaner then reconnected w/ DiE-G for sealing.
    Everything from
    1. GPS connections
    2. Handle bar switches / controls / hand warmers
    3. Signal lights
    4. thermostat
    5. voltage regulator
    6. height sensors
    7. fuel injectors
    8. oxygen sensors
    9. head lamps
    10. key ring / ignitions
    11. ESA shocks
    12. all the Modules from above
    13. ABS censors
    14. radiator fan
    15. OBD connection
    16. battery terminals
    17. any unused connectors or ones I didn't know what the functions were for.
    Luckily, the Service DVD covered most of the connections and usage.. primarily using the exploded view of the Main and Engine Wire Harness diagrams.
    I let the bike sit for a couple of days to dry out completely..

    I changed the final drive oil twice. Didn't bother with the coolant, brakes, clutch hydraulics just yet.
    Reinstalled everything back minus the headlight (which I didn't have a replacement yet at the moment) and the fairings.

    i.e. I rode the bike around for a week looking like a new GS naked bike... 300 miles I put on this thing.
    Feeling pigeon-chested proud of my accomplishment .. now I just needed figure out how to fix the ESA .

    Even went to bike night a couple of times w/ the naked style... I was so excited about her running.

    Of course the next week, she started to act up.. some times the key wouldn't be recognized; some times the auxiliary LED lights would work.. come upon, then go off.

    There would be other errors come on / off on the dashboard... ahh... the ghost of electrical shorts started to rear it's ultra ugly head up now.

    Twice the bike died / stop working when I was out strutting about ... Ack!!

    Til finally, the key would no longer be recognized or turn the bike on.

    Back to the drawing board we go..
    -mek-, Racegun, overtone and 3 others like this.
  8. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Feb 11, 2005
    Alexandria, VA
    That is one hell of a story of hard work and persistence! :clap
    Racegun, mikegc and ExodusRider like this.
  9. BluByU

    BluByU Long timer Supporter

    Feb 24, 2007
    Lost in America
    Lovin this,

    NEVER GIVE UP :super
  10. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Missed a few key points in the last post:

    Almost forgot a few key points when I got her working again the first time at home. Been awhile so had to mentally walk through it again.

    1) Naturally, the air filter was hosed / mildewed and had to be changed out; the air intake housing cleaned out thoroughly.

    2) the spark plugs were shot/rusted and needed to be replaced.

    3) I had to start / cycle the engine w/out the sparks in, to expel out any remaining water in the pistons / cylinders.. and there was still some; it just sprayed out the spark plug opening.
    I sprayed some wd40 (probably should have used brake cleaner, or CRC electric cleaner), into the chamber. Started the engine several times until no more water was being ejected.

    4) Took the header covers off and drained any remaining water.. sprayed wd40 straight into the cam, timing chain, etc. It was dirty and spots of rust forming .. Was able to clean most of the areas and let dry.

    5) spray cleaned the fuel injectors

    6) Blew pressured air into the intake manifold and pretty much any holes I saw lol.

    7) In the first week of running the engine, I changed the oil and final drive every 25 - 50 miles.. so twice, then every 100 miles there after. In total, I changed the oil 4 times before seeing the oil stayed clear.

    The final drive was abit different since you can't really see the consistency unless you actually change it out ( can't look through a glass window)..

    By the time the bike stopped working, I want to say I changed the FD 3 times. Ultimately, I would have had change it another 5 times before I started seeing clear oil return...

    Alright, back to work.. more write up / photos to come next few days..
  11. double_entendre

    double_entendre It's nothing personal; just your existence.

    Aug 11, 2008
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Jim Moore likes this.
  12. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Back to Square 1?

    Actually, I was able to have it running off / on for about 2 or 3 weeks. Toward the 3rd weeks, I started to see alot of weird electrical behavior.

    300 miles later, some times the bike would not recognize the key, some times it would.. I would get lights / dashboards but the key turned wouldn't kick off the starter / crank (battery fully charged)

    I would not touch it for days then try again. I started experiencing dead battery after a few days of sitting around as well. At first thought perhaps I left things on but it was clear after awhile there was a short somewhere causing a serious parasitic draw.

    Months later, I finally got to the point that I gave up and dropped it off to the local BMW dealership.

    Was hoping because the bike was offline for so long that the Key transponder had lost it's pairing with the Main Control Board / Key Immobilizer and could easily be reprogrammed.

    I had purchased probably 4 BMWs in that last 2 years or so from them..built a good enough relationship w/ the service manager and tech.

    When my GS-911 could no longer consistently connect / get a read out, I dropped it off over there. BMW hadn't updated their database yet so Alianna's VIN still showed up as valid warranty.. ha.. so they kept it for a few weeks... trying to figure out why the OBD port wouldn't connect;

    Eventually we were able to connect it by using an external power source / piggy backing of the main data cable.

    We did manage to get the power to come back but the key still wouldn't start the bike. Battery and starter checked out fine. We tried among other things, resetting the Main Control Unit, repairing the keys, etc.

    After a month or 2 of fiddling with it there, BMW VIN database finally updated and showed bike as salvaged.. bye bye.. warranty.

    I finally brought her home.. now somehow had the ability to connect the GS-911 to get error codes.. was getting power again but didn't start; didn't recognize the key I believe.. it sat there for months.

    Then I proceeded to do whatever any insane person would in this case, started pulling /replacing parts.

    Naturally I would only buy used parts off Ebay and the budget was no more than $200 - $250 dollars a part, depending on what.


    1) Standard WC Headlight assembly.. $249.00.
    I misspoke earlier, I didn't get the Cyclops Kit for this GS (that was for my 2015 F800GSA) but instead just a generic $40 LED bulb upgrade; however, only the low beam side housing would fit the bulb.. high beam too tight to squeeze the bulb in.

    Nevertheless, it worked just fine.. and having low beam LED was nice since it already had the auxiliary lights as well.


    A year or so later, I did manage to find a 2013 full LED head assembly for $300 and replaced the standard one (which I still have as a backup part; I believe you needed to have bike reprogrammed when switching between them).

    2) ESA Module / Basic Module : each one for about $150-$175 shipped. (new OEM ones were obnoxious like $800-$1100 don't recall exactly)..

    I had taken out the ESA and Basic Modules and they both showed green/brown corrosion on the contact pins; I pried open those cases and could see the motherboard had corrosion. Cleaned them best I could and set out to dry.

    Unfortunately, I had no way of knowing if they were still good or bad.. I mean the dashboard showed error in ESA and suspension wouldn't shift out of normal or pre-load single rider.. But the evidence sure pointed to them be defective.

    i.e. if the circuit boards showed corrosion, surely good amount of water got in and most likely dead. She did go into the lake still running / powered on.

    I would weekly search Ebay/ Ebay UK for parts as they be came available. Sure enough, 2014-2016 parted out bikes started to show up. Was able to get matching part numbers for both the ESA ( as opposed to non ESA ) module and basic module.

    I'm told certain parts are programmed to the Bike's VIN ( the Main ECU for sure, perhaps the dashboard ? though I did try another dashboard assembly and it seemed worked fine without being reprogrammed to the bike). Don't think the ESA or basic module were programmed to the VIN.

    I couldn't be sure if they would fix my problem after the install however. The ESA error was still there .. the bike still wouldn't crank yet had dashboard power.

    You still couldn't get the gear selector and other info.. which indicated to me the key immobilizer was active / key not recognized?

    Both these replacement modules are still running in her fine without needing to be re-programmed so they turned out to be a good gamble.



    So one by one, I would try to eliminate/refresh as many electronic parts I could find.. within budget. Shooting in the dark really. Didn't have much troubleshooting skills / options.. especially the electrical / computerized components.

    When in doubt, replace LOL.. Good ole Shotgun Approach. Of course this was also under the assumption that the replacement used part was actually still good / functional. Luckily, I had a spare 2016 GS to try these parts out as needed.

    3) Voltage Regulator, Height Sensors ( for the ESA fix? ), any relays, .. these were going for $25-$75 / a piece so minimal risk to change out.

    Whenever I saw any electrical component that I could replace, I did... now I have a box of original spares that might as well be good; just don't know how to verify except perhaps installing them back on.


    4) Main Control Unit $199
    I knew this was the brains of the operation. There was little corrosion on the pins but I could not get into the housing; which affirmed to me it was pretty waterproof.

    The fact that she had worked all this time gave me some hope as well that she was still in good shape.

    I kept an eye on a replacement and found the exact 2014 part I needed.. how luck was that! Unfortunately, these are programmed to the VIN/ Keys. Called a few dealers to see if they could reprogram.

    Was getting mixed answers. It turns out these can be reprogrammed up to 10 times ( or some arbitrary number).

    We tried at the local dealership to program it to my VIN / keys but it didn't take so believe this needs to be done at the manufacturer's center.. i.e. if you had to purchase a new one or get replacement ($1500-1800? ), they will would reprogram and send you keys to be installed at the dealerships.

    There was a Romanian fella advertising that he successfully reprogram / rekeys these head units. You would send him unit / keys and VIN.. was charging $350 I think. In any case, I held on to the spare for now just in case I needed to go that route.



    Happy to say, the original Main ECU in still in the bike running fine, so this is tucked in the spare bin.

    5) Replace Starter.. sure why not ($85)
    Only, I didn't get around to changing her out.. which means.. original one still good but that Spare was immaculate so probably worth it.

    -mek- and overtone like this.
  13. attila_66

    attila_66 Been here awhile

    Jan 3, 2009
    Izmir, Turkey
    I suggest you to find E-sys program on the web. Download it and buy an ICOM A2 unit from Aliexpress. Also you can download and use ISTA+ from internet. With E-sys you can make some changes on the control units. Try to keep in touch with the Italian guy Max73 who is trying to make TFT retrofit. He can help you to program control units.

    One other suggestion is boonstraparts.com site from Netherlands they have lot of parts for BMW K50 and K51.
    Racegun and ExodusRider like this.
  14. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Fyi, bike is up and running great.
    But really good info for future work.. thanks..
    Racegun likes this.
  15. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Back to Life, Back to Reality:
    So where were we?.

    Ahh.. looking for parts.. so few months passes as I keep an eye out for parts I thought I could swap. I had pretty much exhausted changing all major electrical components except the Main Control Unit.

    In talking to other riders and gear heads at bike nights and such, pretty much 85% of folks told me it was next to nearly impossible to fix the bike. That these new BMWs have so much electronics that recovering from a flooded bike was next to impossible, a very long shot indeed.

    But ackkk!! I was sooo close! I could hear her crying out " The light.. end of tunnel.. so near yet so far!" The only other thing I could think ?

    Two components I was so dreading to touch.. 1) replacing and/or re-keying the key immobilizer component assembly

    2) worse, trying to track down a short in the wire harness or evening having to replace them..yuck!!

    I must have used 6 Cans of the CRC electronic cleaner on all the connections and tried to soak the main wire harness by stuffing the plastic dispenser tube deep down in the harness jacket whereever I could get into. I was almost certain the harness was good to go.

    It had to be the key immobilizer assembly.. Here's an idea, take off the assembly and install it on the 2016 GS to verify. I started to take off key ignition cylinder off but it has 2 security one-way bolts that must be drilled out..

    Started to drill 1/3 way and gave up. Having to drill through that bolt upside down with 2 bits was too much trouble to do as a simple parts test; didn't seem worth it..

    Alright, last alternative.. we yank off the Main Wire, Engine harness and test them somehow.

    Anyone that has tried to repair part of the wiring harness will tell you... yanking the harness is almost like taking the bike apart completely to paint the frame. Nearly everything comes over.. minus engine and subframe..

    Here goes nothing.
    1) Once again, all crash bars and fairing off.
    2) Tank, Air Intake Housing, Throttle body, injectors etc.
    3) All major modules back out again
    4) Battery and battery housing (that was a PITA to remove for sure)

    5) Disconnect every single components plugged into wire harness. Release harness from zip ties, locking clips etc.. and there were alot through.
    Thank God for the Service DVD.


    6) Disconnecting and getting around the ABS Modulator assembly.. another pain in the rear.


    What a pile of mess!!
    The disassembly goes nice and orderly til you get to 75% , then after that.. you just get lazy and pulling on things w/out remembering what goes where..



    So I take both wire harnesses and clean the crap of on them, let dry a few days. and reinstall everything back.. Oh for sure, it's going to work now!!
    DAM IT!! Nothing's changed!
    -mek- and overtone like this.
  16. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    I Give UP:

    After the re-installation of both wire harnesses back into the bike and everything else.. SAME STATE!!!, no love , no luck!!

    I give up.. throw my hands up and decide I'm going just part out the bike out best I can.

    Fast forward a month later, I see a set of used 2015 GSA Main / Engine harnesses off ebay for $200. I get a little excited and order them.

    Told myself, one more time.. if this doesn't work.. it wasn't meant to be..

    Harnesses come in, everything back off again. At this point, I'm a professional with assembling /dissembling the bike to bare-bones.

    Even taking the wire harness on / off came second nature.. I almost knew where each connectors needed to be ran through.

    Installing the new (used) harnesses was accomplished in record time. Battery fully charged, new fresh tank of gas.

    Inserted the key, said a pray, turned the key once... saw the green neutral light.. turned the key once again .. starter kicks in .. bike fires up.

    Alianna screams climatically "HALLELUGH, Sweet Jesus!!!!

    I have the biggest grin from El Paso to Vidor, Texas.

    Hop onto my long lost love, we ride down to Treasure's Mens Club by the Galleria.

    I pay my entrance fee, "Jack & Coke please.."

    Some titties in my face, 3 table dances later, I'm riding Alianna back home satisfied to the "bone"..

    THE END!
    -mek-, Racegun, vector6 and 11 others like this.
  17. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Jun 9, 2015
    Houston, Texas
    Some house cleaning bits:
    So it turns out the Main Harness was hosed, that was what was preventing the key from being recognized; the key transponder didn't "get unpaired" with the control unit or that the key immobilizer / ignition assembly was bad.

    Damage to wire harness was enough for it to short out somewhere.. wasn't worth trying track down. But in retrospect, that should have been suspect from the beginning being under water for so long.

    It was also the source of my parasitic draw since after the replacement main harness was installed.. battery stayed fresh for weeks.

    I rode her w/ the ESA error for awhile until I eventually found a 2015 pair of used GSA ESA shocks for $400 in Romania; changed out just the rear shocks and boom, the ESA error went away and I was now able to switch ride stiffness and pre-load. Sweetness! Bike is officially nearly restored :p.

    Some other house cleaning tasks I performed:

    1) I did a full brake fluid flush on the system, including cleaning out the ABS modulator pressurized system.

    2) Coolant was changed and used just the green stuff.

    3) Clutch fluid also changed out.. had an issue where I didn't install the master clutch plate pin thingamajig back in properly.

    There wasnt any alignment notches or guiding/locking mechanism.. just free style aligning with hole and press in.

    The pin wasnt set right so she couldn't depress the release clutch diaphragm properly I think; but figured it out after while when I couldn't change gears. What a pain getting down into that area w/ the bike fully assembled.

    4) As mentioned before, now that I was able to ride her, I had forgotten until going on a trip that the FD drive oil was still kind of white milky..

    So did a final drive oil flush every 250 miles on the trip until she cleared up 5 changes later. Got home from trip, and took the entire final drive arm out, cleaned and lubed all the spines, etc.

    5) Took off the exhaust headers and exhaust, cleaned them out.. removed the Cat, trashed the Charcoal canister.

    6) Added Ez-Can Bus, 30 watts LED Floods, Denali Sound Bomb and she's now fit for duty.

    Only thing I haven't done to the bike is any front fork work. It doesn't use fork oil for compression, etc so figured if it's not broken.. don't fix?
    -mek-, Racegun, mikegc and 3 others like this.
  18. NoiZboy

    NoiZboy Dirt to Track and Back Again

    Dec 24, 2012
    Northern, VA
    LOL - great story & brilliantly told! And congrats on bringing her back!
  19. Myll

    Myll Been here awhile

    Jan 22, 2018
    This whole time I was thinking about that wire harness. I was at a point optimistic you might not need to change it. Me and my bro have had to change countless harnesses on flooded/fire cars. Major PIA and a lot more expensive.

    Seriously who looks for a used harness. Cudos to you on a steal of a price. My hex ezcan was $180
  20. Myll

    Myll Been here awhile

    Jan 22, 2018
    Almost forgot. Did you make out price wise restoring the bike to full. Unfortunately where I live we cant plate a salvage titled bike.