A World Of Dirt...On A 500exc……ICELAND, w/ videos

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rtwpaul, Apr 14, 2019.

  1. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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    I think the restaurant managers line was something like -

    “although we appreciate your patronage as a customer we can’t afford you as a customer any longer, you and your two friends are finishing the food quicker than we can prepare it and leaving none for our other guests…so please find another place to eat and never come back!”
  2. viczena

    viczena n00b

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  3. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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    I wanted the Garmin more in my direct eyeline because I use as my gps.

    I use the trail tech as my dash and back up gps so not as important to see all the time.

    I used @MotoMinded mounts and their angle blocks to set it perfectly for my seating position. Now very happy with the location of everything.
    Old Codger, mpusms, scudo and 7 others like this.
  4. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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  5. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    Hey it works!
    I hit "Like" then "Unlike" then "Like" and repeat :-)
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  6. Neil_The_Wheel

    Neil_The_Wheel Long timer

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    Well, Paul, it seems that you are a likable guy….

    Seriously though, this is a great thread and I am really enjoying your pics and videos. Keep it coming and safe travels.
    Comrade Arturo, JagLite and rtwpaul like this.
  7. dano619

    dano619 Long timer Supporter

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    I am really glad you are back on here posting!! A lot of people here don't do facebook or instagram, me included. Thanks for takin the time!! And the pictures are breathtaking!! Can only imagine what it looks like in person!
  8. fletcherguitar

    fletcherguitar Marilyn Across America

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    Stunning scenery. Phabulous photography.

    And the videos, although a giant pain in the exhaust pipe to edit, do add to the total experience. Well done and quite the inspiration.

    Ride safe.

    We are enjoying following along, camped in Creede, Colorado, for the summer, where a drz400s, with a push button, and a kick start, has replaced the xr650r. Doc Roc now owns the XR and raises dust all around 3 step hideaway, where he keeps it. I miss it. Then again, I don't. Then, I do. Then, I don't.

    Jeff and Samantha
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  9. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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    If I'd known what I was heading into this day I should have stopped at a wellington boot store and bought some over-the-thigh versions, lets talk water crossings!!!

    I made point of passing the Hallgrimskirkja church just because it's such an iconic sight from lots of areas of the city, I'm taking a photo of the church and people are stopping taking photos of my dirty bike, I'm pointing out that the church is so unusual and they are saying the same about the KTM

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    My buddy had told me to head to a place called Hrauneyar, it's the last place that sells gas before I explore Landmannalauger, and to make sure when I was here to find a park ranger and ask about the water crossings and what was and wasn't passible.

    It took a couple of hours to get from manmade to natural beauty

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    I sat and had a chat with the ranger and she suggested the 208, telling me a lot of the other routes were very busy because the highlands were still closed, but because the 208 has water crossings it stays relatively empty in comparison.

    I have a little bit of hatred for this area even though I've never been here, this is where Eyjafjallajökull is.



    It erupted in 2010 causing a massive shutdown of flights in the northern hemisphere, coincidentally right as my father was dying of cancer, it stopped me from getting to the UK to see him!

    This was the problem it caused, I hated the place in 2010, but in 2021 I just wanted to hear people pronounce it, so I think I asked easily a dozen or more people

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    *wiki - "although relatively small for volcanic eruptions, caused enormous disruption to air travel across western and northern Europe over an initial period of six days in April 2010. Additional localized disruption continued into May 2010, and eruptive activity persisted until June 2010."

    So I filled with gas, and headed to the 208, with her words ringing in my ears, there is maybe 7 or 8 or is it 9 water crossings, the first is the worst after that they are like big puddles...the video will show her ability to count!

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    It was remote, it was empty

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    ...but it was also stunning in its own stark way

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    After having a snack lunch looking at the lake I crested the next hill and there was the river

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    It sort of ominously taunted you as you got closer and seemed to grow, maybe it was a lot in the mind but it was certainly a decent-sized crossing

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    I sized it up but as I was deciding my line a lifted tour bus appeared on the horizon so I sat and waited and watched to see how deep it really was, about axle-deep, and what line the driver took.

    Then nothing for a while, but that was ok because all the remaining 7 or 8 were easy and shallow, but where were they!

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    Get to a high point and you can see water all over, let the games begin I'm thinking to myself

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    The second was over the wheels, the third kind of similar, I began to curse the ranger for her inaccuracy, but at the same time was having fun. The remainder of the day was all video and you might agree with me she needs to have her water crossing counting badge taken away and be retested...but you need to watch the video to see how wrong she was!




    I made it through the day, no drops, minimal people anywhere so if I did need help it wouldn't have come and finished the day in Vik, where the wind was blowing an easy 40 mph but the stainless statue stood its ground as did the church on the hill

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    In the campground I looked for something big and substantial to block the wind, luckily there were plenty of possibilities

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  10. cidi

    cidi cidi Supporter

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    Once again what a great update. Video was fun to watch and you are right the ranger needs to go back to “River crossing counting school”.
    Safe travels!
    GringoRider, thwak, BLucare and 3 others like this.
  11. davepen

    davepen Just put your damned city in your profile.

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    Was this in Iceland?
  12. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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    The getting barred situation, no, in England
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  13. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

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    almost blown out of my tent in the morning Vik was the signal for me to get up, my plan for the day was to head west but first, a quick trip east to see Skogfoss and try and get a photo WITHOUT anyone in it...success

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    just to prove I was really there. There were a few thousand people around but...angles...can really help to seem like you are lonely

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    Now my mission was complete I headed east to Dyrhólaey, the arches, and black sand beaches, and a little further down the coast on Reynisfjara Beach

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    One thing the beach is sadly known for is killing people because of the extremely strong currents

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    A little further west in the area of Laki, a group of small dormant volcanos that now look like small moss hills but in the 1700's they were a lot different - In France, the climactic disruption, poor harvests, and poverty resulting from the Laki and Grímsvötn eruptions caused years of political unrest and upheaval. This helped ignite the French Revolution in 1789

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    and of course, there were river crossings

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    A few dirt roads later I stumble across this waterfall and to me these are more impressive than the huge ones, just at the end of a farmers dirt track

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    I decided on a campground in a national park, the entry was about $14, including tent, showers, wifi, restaurants, and access to Svínafellsjökull Glacier and Skatafoss waterfall

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    and if you're not a geologist and always wondered how these hexagonal columns form, wonder no more

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    as this section of the south coast runs by the largest glacier in Europe it reaches down towards the ring road multiple times

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    One of the most dramatic is in an area nicknamed Diamond beach where small icebergs break off and head out to see but occasionally land on the beach and if the sun catches them just right they shine like diamonds!

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    I headed for a campground further around the coast via a beautiful stretch with no vehicles, the main tourist route seems to end at Diamond Beach then the rental cars and vans turn back for the capital, so I had this to myself.

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    try your pronunciation skills on my campsite

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    and the view was pretty good too

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    The following morning with great weather again I headed a little inland and just freestyle tracks to see what I could stunble across and found this great spot for lunch down a very small dirt track, I sat here for nearly two hours just enjoying the view and not one single vehicle passed

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    A little later grabbing a snack I opened a magazine and saw Stuðlagil Canyon and I was close so why not go check it out, a canyon formed by a dam where the river used to flow but just over a decade ago as the river level dropped the columns became visable

    but first this, in MX boots


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    Another camp and a look at the weather app and I changed plans for the next day instead of east I changed to north and decided to go see Dettifoss again but this time from the west side...but to find a cool track, how about this one

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    which of course had water crossings, about ten of them

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    At Dettifoss I think I was more impressed from this side, what do you think after seeing the previous photos? The video will show you more detail

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    The last stop for the day was something I had seen on a map at a gas station called Arctic Henge, no information, it sounded interesting, something I had never heard of but had no way to know anything about it, sadly when I took the nearly 200km detour to get there it turned out to be new construction, but still impressive, but also still not finished!

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    walking down from here the temperature suddenly dropped to about 7c/ 44f and all I wanted to find was a place out of the wind for my tent...

  14. ScotsFire

    ScotsFire And then a drifter rode into town... Supporter

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    Your photos are always amazing, but several in this post struck me even more strongly than usual. Thank you again for sharing your ride (which seems a word so undervaluing, though "trip" is even more so) and capturing the sights so wonderfully.
  15. BigDogAdventures

    BigDogAdventures Fart Letter Supporter

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    Hey Paul,
    Got a kick out of in the video you were trying to tell us where you were going and you said.

    "I'm going to go East--until I run out of land"

    Made me smile.
    Well---I guess I've done that once or twice-------but millions had been before me and there was really "NO" unknown.
    I was also amazed of the lack of real mud in all those water crossing you did.

    Awesome !!!!!!
    signed: "Round the Block Dog"
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  16. scudo

    scudo Adventurer

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    Just 'FANTASTIC' thank you Paul.
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  17. AdvMoto18

    AdvMoto18 NORDO Supporter

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    While I didn't tour Iceland on my moto...

    I too thought it would be more muddy...and there was certainly mud. But, Iceland for the most part is volcanic rock of which a lot has been pulverized. The mud I encountered was coarse in texture. Even the mud baths at Hveragerdi felt like fine, yet coarse mud.

    But then I'm used to the slick, smooth, pungent pluff mud of the SC Low Country, which his dead, decaying matter from centuries ago, not pulverized volcanic rock.
    JagLite likes this.
  18. AdvMoto18

    AdvMoto18 NORDO Supporter

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    Paul...
    Thoroughly enjoying every post, image and video!
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  19. Samanjo

    Samanjo Long timer

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    What a fascinating place.
    My wife now wants to go there on holiday.
  20. ricochetrider

    ricochetrider MotoMojo

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    Friends of mine are heading to Iceland next week and have good friends there. I’ve been showing them your photos Paul. I know they’re super excited, who wouldn’t be!
    rtwpaul, snail73, BLucare and 2 others like this.