Across The Black Sea to The Caucasus

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by muf722, Aug 27, 2019.

  1. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Crazy Russian overtaking, but the closest to being killed today was somebody making a u-turn without looking G0036763.jpg

    The rain pouring down, but most of it came during the night.
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    I passed this viewpoint and even with the poor visibility is was popular. A policeman took notice at me stopping here to take the photo, and it being a no stopping zone, I quickly continued.
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    A statue and a church. The odd building in the background is my strange hotel.
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    #41
  2. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Who was architect on this one? G0047384.jpg
    Great view of the High Caucasus outside
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    I used the pool. The pool deck outside had never been finished.
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    The towns major attraction is some stone faces.
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    #42
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  3. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Leaving the main road for todays track. No rain this morning, but a lot during the night. G0017620.jpg
    Bridge up ahead. River sending side branch over the road.
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    Group of 4x4s with an Adventure sticker on the doors. Very slow and I finally found a spot where I could pass them all.
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    Bash plate came to use on this river crossing, so on the return I went over the metal pipes instead. G0017900.jpg

    The river I'm following
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    Funny sign. I guess it means: Do not leave the road.
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    The valley opens up
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    A lot of puddles today
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    First sign of civilasation
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    #43
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  4. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Mostly ruins G0018133.jpg

    Narrow and thin metal bridge
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    Remote church and house
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    Soft dirt track. The rocky roads are your friend out here.
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    No chance of sinking in here
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    The goal is reached. The Old Fortress. The road ends in a cul-de-sac with Russia and South Ossetia on the sides.
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    The Old Fortress. The frontier to Russia. This marks the eastern most point on my route. How far east? Well if you due south you find Iraq. And I’m east of Bagdad.

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    No other visitors.
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    Old stables perhaps? Now a few soldiers guard the border in the white shed.
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    Well at the river. And the remnants of a cable system to bring water up to the fortress. DSC02768.jpg
    #44
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  5. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Hitchcock anyone? Birds or Vertigo. I got dizzy. DSC02769.jpg

    And you get to do it all over again on the return
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    The mineral springs make strange shapes.
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    Weather improving, but I still didn't fancy going out to the viewpoint. Road back to Tbilisi. DSC02774.jpg

    Lunch stop and a KTM from Russia.
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    And by the end of lunch I talked to this group of riders from Ukraine. They were also riding around the Black Sea and were going to Russia next.
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    #45
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  6. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    In Tbilisi. The next door hotel have a visitor from New Zealand. IMG_4443.jpg
    Taking the City tour. The Holy Trinity Cathedral.

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    By cable car up to the castle.
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    The City Castle
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    Coffee and cheesecake in a relaxing place.
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    Nice Triumph in front of the mall. I just love the sound from my Moto Guzzi with a similar Arrow exhaust. IMG_4457.jpg

    Up the mountain on the funicular for dinner. IMG_4458.jpg
    I had the veal and the meat dumplings of course.
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    City view from the restaurant. The yellow center is the Cathedral. Thunderstorms approaching.
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    The Funicular restaurant and the com tower.
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    #46
  7. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    As predicted. Rain during the night and the next few days. I will use the bad weather to transit to Turkey.
    Scary first hours in high terrain, rain and dense fog. Headlights are rarely used.
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    Then suddenly, the weather clears. More rain to come.
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    Roads in Georgia are fine, but nearing the border they aren't. This is a worldwide common phenomenon.
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    Getting closer.
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    Exit Georgia. Turkey in sight.
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    In Turkey. Smooth border crossing. Some customs inspections. 15-20 min. in total. It did help that I was the only person there to cross.
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    Large lake where I stopped. More rain.
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    On the border between Turkey and Armenia are the remains of the city Ani. One of the first sites I put on the map to visit when I planned this tour. There is a fee to enter but since I have not had the chance to exchange any money yet, the ticket seller let me in for free.
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    Inside the city walls only a few remaining buildings stands. All houses are rubble.
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    The fallen Minaret and a church. All religions are represented. All buildings are dated 900AD to 1200AD
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    #47
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  8. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,636
    Location:
    UK
    Turkey is my favourite riding country. I'm looking forward to this section.
    #48
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  9. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    The Cathedral. The City were build by the Armenians and were an advanced cultural center for the period. DSC02790.jpg

    The Cathedral. Vast and empty.
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    The city is walled by natural canyons.
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    Totally destroyed by the Ottomans,I believe. The border between Turkey and Armenia is still closed to this date.
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    In Kars I ride straight to the Castle. My hotel is inside the walls on the opposite side.
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    Restaurant in Kars center. The rain causes flooding in the streets.
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    #49
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  10. Lone Stranger

    Lone Stranger Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    May 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    61
    Location:
    International


    My custom moto license plate in Ca was about $150 / year. I'm sure this one is about the same or a bit higher. I'm now licensed in another state (long story) where it costs me I think $29 / year, and the insurance is about 1/15th as much - I'm now paying less per year than I paid a month in commiefornia…
    #50
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  11. Lone Stranger

    Lone Stranger Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    May 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    61
    Location:
    International
    Great ride report!!!
    #51
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  12. Hayastani

    Hayastani Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2006
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    UK
    [QUOTE="Online I had made all the correct entries for the bike..."[/QUOTE]

    Can you please advise me as to website you used to book the Odessa - Batumi ferry please?
    #52
  13. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Can you please advise me as to website you used to book the Odessa - Batumi ferry please?[/QUOTE]

    Sure. Its http://www.ukrferry.com/eng

    Payment is also possible online.
    #53
  14. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Near the border there are many military check points, but the first to actually stop me, is a police check point. When they see my foreign plates, they let me go without further. G0034927.jpg

    First stop in Erzurum. I need a bank to change some cash. Its been cold the last two days with temperatures down to 8C (45F) and hailstorms at altitudes hovering around 2000m. Now blue skies. Erzurum castle.
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    But the weather changes quickly and yet another hailstorm with flooded roads. I have the long underwear and Goretex on.
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    And another quick dry.
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    At lunch time I am far from any town and this guy flags me down at this restaurant of sorts.
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    The most basic meal I've had so far. I enjoyed the company though
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    Close to Elazig and the only refuel for the day. As anywhere else, the big bike draws attention and the guys want to chat. They bring free tea to keep me from taking off to fast.
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    Large lake just before Elazig.
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    I did't want to go to a restaurant this evening. So just fast food. The Turkish fastfood was not bad at all. Köfte.
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    #54
  15. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Hotel Marathon in Elazig. I use Booking.com to book hotels. Due to the Turkish IP censorship, you can't book any hotels while on WIFI in the country. Turkey has disappeared from the map. To work around it, use VPN or roam with 3G/4G. I made a phone call to Booking.com and they know about it.
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    A check of the weather forecast (80s and sun) and the long johns and weather gear can be packed away IMG_4472.png

    Blue skies leaving Elazig
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    Drone shots on deserted scenic route.
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    Passing a dam on the road to Kayseri.
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    #55
  16. Dickyb

    Dickyb Bewildered Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,058
    Location:
    Kas-Antalya,Turkey
    Really enjoying this. Thank you. Lived in Turkey for 13 years and went from there to Georgia. You are bringing back lots of good memories.

    Cheers,

    DickyB
    #56
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  17. DanesDownunder

    DanesDownunder n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2017
    Oddometer:
    7
    Location:
    Australia
    Happy Birthday Brormand. Håber du når hjem i tide på trods af regn og hullede veje.
    #57
  18. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Tak. Jeg fejrede med kaffe og kage i havnen i Canakkale. Tæt på Gallipoli som alle i Australien ved hvor er. IMG_4525.jpg
    #58
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  19. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,636
    Location:
    UK
    On the Euphrates.
    #59
  20. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Scandinavia
    Center of the earth.
    #60
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