AdamChandler's "Felicity" 1995 K75RT Build Thread

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by AdamChandler, Mar 7, 2019.

  1. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    ...here we go again (says every mod on ADVRider). If this doesn't belong in Road Warriors, please help me and move it?

    Fully story is here: http://adamchandler.me/blog/2018/12/26/my-bike-my-new-bmw-k75-rt/ and paraphrased below.

    Felicity is a K75RT manufactured in 1995 which is the last year of this model (depending on who you ask). It's blessed (or cursed) with ABS onboard and even more blessed to not have been chopped all to Hell by some Brooklyn hipster (no offense).

    She has 38,000 miles on the odometer and the motor is very strong. The only current issue I'm having with her is seemingly low fuel economy at 31-35 MPG but this might be normal, either way we'll be looking into this as the build progresses.

    She has been dropped a few times with bondo-scars to prove it. Her paint is flawless outside of a few chips induced by yours truly. To be clear, this bike needs nothing...I use that term in a very exaggerated way but I bought the bike and rode 650 miles home and it was flawless. The bike was mechanically and functionally problem free. But this is a 1995 bike with 38K miles and a mostly unknown (to me) service history. The last couple of owners said they did this or that but I like that confidence knowing it was done before I begin relying on this to get me another 2-10K miles. This entire rebuild is just a deep maintenance task with the only addition being steel brake lines and new suspension. Also, can I add how great it is that you go to buy a bike and some stranger in the carolinas talks to you for an hour about the bike when he owned it and about all of the places he went with it? I love ADVRider.

    My all-in price for this vintage K75 to fly & ride to Richmond and drive back 3 days before Christmas:
    • $1500
    • $140 for plane
    • $36 for bus
    • $31 for Taxi to Eddie’s house
    • $59 for a Days Inn outside of Elkton Deleware
    • $40 in fuel
    • $50 for insurance
    • +food
    $1,816 out the door + $28 to have New Hampshire issue a fresh title.

    -----

    The plan is not to do anything that isn't true to its form. No chopping, re-painting or custom work. if anything, this is a former-glory restore thread so I can maintain the value of the bike and get another decade out of it without any serious open heart surgery.

    Here's a sample of what I want to do with everything that has an asterisk being things I already ordered / traded for to make this build happen:
    • New Battery*
    • Oil Filter*
    • Air Filter*
    • Fuel Filter*
    • Fuel Pump
    • Spline Lube*
    • Final Drive / Shaft (if splines are bad)
    • Coolant flush
    • New Injectors & Bosch coils*
    • Spark plugs x3*
    • Headlight, Tail light, Turn Signals, console lights
    • Brake Rotors + Pads*
    • ABS Service
    • Brake Fluid*
    • New Footpeg pads*
    • New Grips (while preserving OEM heated grips)*
    • Headlight Restoration
    • Touch up paint where metal is exposed
    • New BMW Roundel on Tank + Panniers
    • Repaint cylinder covers maintaining silver BMW logo*
    • Cylinder Valve Gasket Replacement*
    • New rear progressive rear shock with reservoir*
    • New front springs with fork oil*
    • Touring tires with better wet traction
    • Stainless steel brake lines*
    • New hoses*
    I'm on the search for a scratch-free Roundel and a paint-pen of the Blue Metallic paint. Please PM me if you have these on hand! I'm ready to buy ASAP. I've had no luck finding these so far.

    Here's all that CarFax will tell me:
    [​IMG]

    ----

    What should you expect from this thread as a reader? here's a rough breakdown:
    • Great photos of a bike opened up
    • Videos of me fixing (or breaking) things
    • Daily questions that I hope some K75 experts can jump in and answer
    • An update at least every few days on what I'm doing next but I expect this build to be done by mid-April at the very latest with the main thing being issues sourcing a shaft drive, delays at the powder coating shop as I'm asking them to re-plate with chrome both crash bars
    • A rough break down of costs as I do this starting with the next post (which I'll fill in after a couple of days because I'm a bit pressed for time)
    • A similar dialogue / story as I've done on my R1200GS Build (link)

    ----

    Let's kick things off with some photos!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'll leave you all with a few videos of the pickup process:





    #1
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  2. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    <reserved for financial information + links to posts containing build elements>
    #2
  3. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    <reserved for Update photos along the way>
    #3
  4. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    <reserved for the final product and first ride video after the rebuild is completed>
    #4
  5. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    ...day one, we've hit a snag and I'm realizing this is actually common for the RT models.

    The front tree bracket is cracked and one of the two previous owners JB-Welded the bracket to the upper fairing to make it stick. When I tried to find a replacement upper fairing, all of them have the same issue with at least one side being broken. The tree itself, only $199. An upper fairing, $600 new or $200 used but all used ones I found have the same broken bit and none are paint matched.

    Here's the tree:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This piece:
    [​IMG]

    Used to go here:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the other side (how it should look)
    [​IMG]

    Any thoughts / suggestions?
    #5
  6. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    A few other photos...

    Fairing Removed:
    [​IMG]

    Engine needs some de-greasing:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The right crash bar rubber is shot. Was hoping to re-use these:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the inside of the upper cowl:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    #6
  7. Johann

    Johann Commuterous Tankslapperous

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    The fuel economy is definitely not normal. I had three K75s, two naked, one RT and when used outside town with a mix of motorway (freeway) and fastish two lane would all return somewhere around 50mpg regardless of hard they were ridden, in touring smell the roses mode it could get a bit higher especially on the second tank onwards. I think that translates to low to mid 40s in US MPG. The first thing I would be checking is the valves and I think there is a temp sensor behind the rad that can cause the bike to run a bit rich if not working properly. You might find it sorts itself out as you work through the bike and give it a general dose of TLC, you seem to have a pretty comprehensive list of stuff to swap out.

    I used to run the bike on the cheapest lowest grade unleaded available with no knocking but in the UK at the time we didn´t have any of that gack 10% Ethanol fuel.
    #7
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  8. mr_10brook

    mr_10brook Been here awhile

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    I also had a K75RT. Your gas mileage is low, but you neglected to tell us by how much you may have been exceeding the legal speed limit. Ha ha.

    If it is making lots of power and not missing out, I have no idea about the bad mileage, but you could consult with the K bike guys at motobrick.com to see what they say.
    #8
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  9. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    YSS Shock is On:

    [​IMG]
    #9
  10. Carlisja

    Carlisja A wandering soul. Super Supporter

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  11. TownPump

    TownPump Been here awhile

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    As others have said, the mileage is definitely low unless your 650 mile ride was WFO. My mileage was reliably between 40-50 regardless. I would start with the simple things like the air filter, fuel filter/pump (not quite so simple) and the plugs. All of which are already on your list of course.

    Great bike, love that engine. I think the backrest is aftermarket, either way I would consider losing it and replacing the rear rack with a stock unit. Looks far better IMHO even if not as functional.
    #11
  12. TownPump

    TownPump Been here awhile

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    My old well worn/loved '91 k75rt:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #12
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  13. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    The oil was completely black and goopy / thick. Not absurd but when I do on-time oil changes on my boxer, my oil is still a little hazy, not like tar. Oil filter was slightly scorched (discolored). The final drive fluid was still orange and the splines were very well lubed with generic industrial grease so I degreased those completely and applied Moly lube from BeemerBoneyard.

    Pulling plugs tonight and doing valve checks. I haven to pulled the air filter but will tonight and it is possible it's completely clogged. Lots of things contribute to fuel economy but I generally do 70-72 on the interstate.

    Is it possible that there's a bad bearing that's dragging? I've never owned an old bike, how do I know if a bearing is shot? 25 years, 38K miles, should I just buy new bearings for the front anyway? They're only $50. cheap piece of mind since I already have the wheel, brakes and front forks off the bike anyway.
    #13
  14. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist More Gelände less Straße

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    While it is possible that the bearing is shot, especially if seals are damaged or cracked allowing for it, chances are the bearings are ok... Ie. how did you determine the bearing is dragging? If by holding it with your finger and trying to spin it, that may not be the "most reliable" way of doing it... :D

    Or, if you feel like changing it, go for it as it won't break your piggy-bank - just have someone with press put them in properly... Or, you can do it yourself but very carefully with some heating/freezing techniques applied for a good measure!

    :thumb
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  15. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I'm pretty sure it's not the bearing. 650 miles in the first 24 hours of ownership. I track fuel economy religiously and when my first low fuel light came on after just 150 miles, I felt the front and rear wheels for excessive heat and they were cool to the touch. I asked my local mechanic to check it and he said he's happy to replace them but my wheels would have been on fire if the bearing was shot.

    I'll probably still have them changed given the age. it's only $50.
    #15
  16. TownPump

    TownPump Been here awhile

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    That is weird, and a concern, my oil never came out thick and goopy. Hopefully it just sat for far too long.
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  17. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    The two previous owners are on ADVRider so I don't want them to think I'm throwing them under the buss. It wasn't low on oil. Just very old from what I could tell. It's entirely possible that the oil was so old that its weight / friction properties were causing drag on the engine and thus decreased economy? this is out of my wheelhouse though. Any further and I'll be talking out of my ass. Tire pressure was good as well.
    #17
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  18. Johann

    Johann Commuterous Tankslapperous

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    I would try running some injector cleaner through the tank, mainly because I´m lazy and cheap.
    #18
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  19. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    That's a good idea. I'm usually hesitant on using it on old bikes. Any bike that's pre 2010, I run ethanol free fuel in but only because I have a station right across the bridge from my house.
    #19
  20. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I'm tryin to source this paint code; 1992 Royal Blue Metallic Scheme Code: 680

    Anyone have ideas on where to go?
    #20