AdamChandler's "Felicity" 1995 K75RT Build Thread

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by AdamChandler, Mar 7, 2019.

  1. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Been here awhile

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    If the valve cover gaskets (you didn't remove the heads to check the valves) are reusable like the current boxer gaskets, then no adhesive should be used. All metal surfaces and the gasket should be clean and dry; again, just like a boxer.

    For the broken fairing mount, take it and the parts to a welder and have the parts welded back together with some gussets added for additional strength. There's no glue that you're going to get that is appropriate for that repair.
    #41
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  2. mr_10brook

    mr_10brook Been here awhile

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    #42
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  3. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    #43
  4. TownPump

    TownPump Been here awhile

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    I know that is what I used them for! Those tabs were absolutely handy to grab on to with pliers. :)
    #44
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  5. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    A few photo updates as the engine work is now done. First, the gasket sealant did the trick. Thanks everyone! today's accomplishments:

    • Spark Plugs
    • Gasket
    • Ignition Coils
    • Breather Valve
    • Air Filter
    • Oil + Oil treatment
    • Fuel Filter
    • Started it and it sounds normal so I think we're good!
    • Unboxed replacement front RT faring tree to replace the broken one
    As I write this, the remaining plastic pieces are on their way to me from eBay (new trays/lids/inserts for the RT fairing), battery will be here tomorrow, Continental Go Tires are being thrown on the wheels and the front forks are receiving new fork springs / oil / seals.

    Tomorrow:
    Install last 2 stainless brake lines
    Bleed Brakes
    Remove dried out and used grips without damaging the heated element (wish me luck) and replace with new OEM grips and wrap them in Grip Puppies
    if mechanic is done with wheels / forks, I'll re-install those

    Over the next week:
    Replace all zip ties (have been doing this as I go along)
    Start piecing back together the body-work I have on hand (mostly rear pieces) and once all eBay plastics arrived, we can re-assemble those.

    Once the snow melts and driveway is clear:
    Full degreasing of the entire bike, detailing, waxing the body work. This bike is filthy. there's huge chunks of gravel on top of the engine behind the radiator. it needs a complete detailing job.

    Photos:
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    #45
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  6. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    A few more photos from the last few days shot on iPhone.

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    if anything looks out of the ordinary to those K75 owners, let me know!
    #46
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  7. mr_10brook

    mr_10brook Been here awhile

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    I
    It would be easy to change the coolant since you have it torn down that far . Inspect all the rubber hoses under and around the air box and fuel injection system.
    #47
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  8. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I really want to replace the hoses outright. NO leaks, all are pretty soft and supple. Is there a good source for coolant lines where the lines aren't $200+? Looking to spend around $50 as we're almost maxed out on budget.
    #48
  9. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Few more photos from lsat night
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    I can't wait to degrease this damn thing.
    #49
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  10. r60man

    r60man Long timer

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    I replaced all of the hoses on my K1100RS which is just a big brother, but the design is very similar. The most expensive parts was the coolant. The hoses were very reasonable from my local dealer, all in stock as well. Since you have it all apart now is the time.
    #50
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  11. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Looks like this is the price w/o shopping around:

    [​IMG]
    #51
  12. r60man

    r60man Long timer

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    Looks about right. I did mine a few years back, but I remember the cost being about that, plus the coolant.
    #52
  13. mr_10brook

    mr_10brook Been here awhile

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    One guy on motobrick found a Volvo 6 dollar substitute for the lower radiator 60 dollar hose. Follow the link below and scroll down the page.

    http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1563.0.html

    You probably don't want to know about lubing the input clutch spline at about 40k miles yet. I don't think your old air filter looks too bad as the air filters are over engineered for the old K bike.

    In your original list you mention the ignition coils. Are you changing out the old ones?

    The driveshaft spline and drive unit spline looks good to me. A lot of people recommend lube on the splines as K75 seems to be hard on the driveshaft spline for some reason.
    #53
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  14. Johann

    Johann Long timer

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    Another K bike thing to be aware of, make sure the battery is 100 per cent. The starter relay contacts can overheat and fuse together if you try starting the bike with a flat battery, at which point you have to physically disconnect the battery to stop the starter motor. Banging the relay with a tappometer will normally free them up again to get you home. When you put a new battery in there is a process to clear the ABS warning light. There is a connector under the left side panel that you can use to read codes and is also useful for resetting ABS lights.
    #54
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  15. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Thanks for the link! hoses are hoses, right? :)

    I debated doing the input clutch spline but I need to do more research. It's probably a bit past my experience level but I'm sure I can do it cheaper than aBMW dealer! hah.

    Yep, I heard spline lube 6K / 12 months on the rear of the shaft drive into the FD. last owner didn't do it but guy before him said he did. but he was using a more general grease over moly so I'm just going a bit more legit. His grease was just industrial stuff. better than nothing.

    I am just doing the ignition wires. Never felt anything in riding the bike that first 600 miles that indicated it needed any help making spark so I'm just doing plugs / wires as preventative since they were both pretty old.

    Good tip! I had no idea. I'm keeping it on a tender but a brand new battery arrives tomorrow. old owner had an SAE plug setup for tender connectivity.
    #55
  16. Fr8dog61

    Fr8dog61 Been here awhile

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    I have always just glued gaskets on with weatherstrip adhesives (“Yellow Snot” is what we call the 3m product). The gasket will do it’s job, you just need it to stay in position. Glue it to the cover, not the motor!!!
    #56
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  17. Fr8dog61

    Fr8dog61 Been here awhile

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    Also, for final drive lube, you are 100% correct that you need a moly based lube. I have been using a Honda moly grease works well, in case you have a Honda dealer near. Sorry, it’s down in shop and I don’t remember what it’s called. Of course, what you get from Beemer Boneyard will be quite satisfactory!:photog
    #57
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  18. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    This is what I use for my R (and now) K bike: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/endura477splb.html

    I bought that stuff 2 years ago and have done over 5 applications on splines and still have a lot left.
    #58
  19. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    UPDATE:

    Front Forks & Wheels are still at the mechanic so this project is on hold until they're done. Once back, I can roll the bike outside and degrease the shit out of it. I took the shop-vac to some of the nooks & crannies. Sucked about 25 pieces of gravel and road debris that were lodged on top of the motor behind the radiator. Chewed up a few bugs as well. There's grease & grime everywhere

    ------

    Since we have some time to marinate, anyone have a guide or tips for removing the old tired and crusty grips but not damaging the heated element? Here's what I want to do:

    1. Cut / slide off grips ONLY leaving heated film behind
    2. Re-install OEM Grips that are identical (just not hard as a rock)
    3. Throw Grip Puppies over that.

    I thought about heat-gunning the OEM grips until they were blazing hot then gingerly cutting them off with small snips and hoping for the best. replacement heated element is $200+
    #59
  20. Possibly Certifiable

    Possibly Certifiable Verified Bing-nut

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    @AdamChandler for what it's worth, I've always used an air gun. Sort of like this guy uses.



    Mind you I've not tried to do that with heated grips so I am more than willing to be corrected by the masses.

    EDIT: Gah, it was supposed to start at about 0:45. Skip to there to see how he does it.
    #60
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