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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by AdamChandler, Mar 7, 2019.
I have used Plast-Aid extensively in many different projects. Really like it.
How is it going n going?
Trying to get it back together. Had to order some bolts as I lost them.
Here's Felicity who was just picked up by MaxBMW and taking down to their NH location. She's getting a valve check & brake fluid flush. I learned the hard way that the brake fluid flush is impossible without a special BMW pump tool due to the nature of version 1 ABS, you can't use a standard fluid flush hand pump that I use on my car. No independent shop had the equipment for it and since I had not done the valve check yet, I decided to have them do that and give the bike a final look over. They'll make sure I torqued down spark plugs correctly, the brake lines are well installed, overall just a torque check of the bike and they are also going to look into what appears to be a stuck throttle some times. Here she is before being loaded up:
The service techs & the MaxBMW driver were actually stoked that the bike was 'naked' It's way easier to work on these big RTs when all of the fairings are gone. The driver said "this is the lightest K-Bike I've ever had to load up"
....as for the build, I've had a Hell of a time getting everything back together. I keep finding broken plastic and all kinds of issues. So I remain at a cross-roads. Once they're done with this, I need to have a serious come to Jesus conversation with myself about where to go next. Do I dump more money into making the broken RT parts all work and just deal with the Patina, cracks, loose parts or do I convert it to an S or C variant and sell the RT parts (OEM + about $600 I've spent in replacement parts for pieces that were broken). I'd also be replacing some RT bolts as well which are corroded and broken.
TBD let's see how big the bill is from BMW first.
Interesting "labor of love". At the point in my life when I had no money and lots of interest in bikes, the K75 was the grail of classy machines with great do-everything performance. I couldn't even contemplate owning one. Now, I could afford a truckload of them but decline for other reasons - but it's great to see one being preserved!
It's all about the motor. The K75 motor is amazing. I put around 700 miles on it in the stock RT form and while I don't fit it (fairing is too big and my knees too far out), the on-road characteristics are just awesome and the motor is strong, vibration free and quiet. It's a luxury machine in an era when the air-cooled R-Bikes were the standard. A K75 with fuel injection, ABS, liquid cooling, lots of luxury. This being the 1995 model year (last year), I have more interest in preserving it than chopping it up but I think if I were to give all of the parts I have to BMW and have them bring their new OEM bolts to the table, we're looking at 2 grand to get it back together. Then I'll have to sell it since I can't actually fit it. I have until end of Winter to figure this out. I paid $1500 for this bike with 38K miles and meticulous maintenance performed so it's in amazing shape.
1. Overview of bike just checking for any issues
2. Brake Fluid Flush
3. Valve Check
$495.31 USD. Phew, that was pricey. Good thing nothing else was found wrong.
I think Max is taking advantage of you. Valves are an hour. Brakes are half an hour plus fluid. Let's say $120 per hour. If a pint of brake fluid costs $20 you are at $200. Does it really take two and a half hours to do an inspection?
I unfortunately didn’t challenge them but between you and me, I too was expecting $200...$250 max. The only valve out of spec was the exhaust valve on cylinder 3. Good I had it done but not terrible . I owe you a PM actually but I’m mobile so it’ll have to be when I’m back at a computer.
Did they adjust the exhaust valve back to spec?
Yep. I asked them since I basically touched every bolt outside of the motor to check things front to back. since all of the fairings were off of it I wanted them to check torque and just make sure when it all goes back together, nothing self-inflicted causes the bike to fall apart.
Hey guys. MaxBMW sent me the breakdown:
The gasket and plugs were actually brand new but whatever. They said "the initial charge is 198 for the check and if the valves need adjusting its an additional 99 "
Funny, I did not realize the K bikes used shims way back then. Ahead of their time.
Check the monkey nuts while you have the Tupperware off. They are the rubber 'coupling' that transfers torque from the motor dog to the alternator. Rear of the engine above the transmission. Throttle side. Three bolts and a connector to remove the alternator. Easy to replace. If yours are original, they are 24 years old and should be replaced. My '86 had them fail and took out the engine dog and alternator cup. Ugly. But it still got me home!
Whoa,I had no idea that was a thing. Very easy fix at the moment given it's all right there. thanks!
The wiring harness itself was good as in everything was intact but the wrap was damaged so I wanted to have a shop re-wire the bike go through and check everything and then clean up the wiring so it'll last another 25 years. I also was a bit over my head on some of the fiberglass work and cleaning up some damaged bits so I basically dropped everything off at a shop in Portland Maine who has done a dozen K75 restorations over the last few years and asked them to give me an estimate. I gave them a ceiling which would also include re-painting the engine head covers. They'll have the bike at least until April which will save me some money as the bike will be a "side project' for them since there's no ETA given.
I Really wanted to re-do the paint back to the factory blue and re-powdercoat the wheels and re-chrome the exhaust but they gave me a pretty high cost ($2-3K) to do all paint, Chrome, powder coat and I just can't afford it this year but eventually, I'd like to properly restore it. When I do, I'll be sure to update the thread. For now, we're just getting it rideable.
....and no I'm not chopping it up.
It's always good to know your limits when it comes to bike projects and know when to call in a professional.
Interesting reading here for me, as I just picked up a used 1995 K75RT myself last month and am currently doing a deep maintenance dive on it. Change of all filters and fluids, lube of clutch splines and (somewhat worn) FD splines, replacement of leaking rear main seal, valve clearance adjustment (4 of the 6 were out of spec), replace hoses, boots and cables where required, adjust loose steering head bearings, install and balance new tires, and lots and lots of small repairs here and there when the need becomes apparent.
My old 1990 K75S (sold it in 1997) didn't have ABS, but my 1994 R1100RS had (I believe) the same ABS I system as this K75RT. While I've read the notes in the Clymer K75 manual that only a dealer can bleed this ABS system as you note in your post, for years I bled the RS's brakes during fluid change with no issue while using a vacuum pump. I've also read on multiple K-bike specific forums that many BMW dealers (especially newer ones) don't have the old, special BMW bleed tool, and that bleeding the ABS brakes on these is easily done either using a vacuum pump (such as a Mity-Vac) or by the old conventional pump-the-lever-and-bleed-at-the-caliper method. The only caveat I've read is to bleed at the respective ABS module first, then move on to the caliper(s).
I'll be to the point in another week or two where I'll be replacing the fluid and I plan on bleeding the brakes with my vacuum pump. I'm curious though how you determined that brake fluid replacement/bleed isn't possible without the BMW special tool?
good luck to you on the minor refresh of an aging beauty.
I always say (and you are already well aware) that I am not a mechanic. I started turning wrenches about 6 years ago so that's my experience. Just got my first Torque wrench 2 years ago.
I have this - https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Pressure/dp/B0002KM5L0 and a Mity-Vac but I didn't try the Mity Vac only the Motive and I could not get all of the air out with that so your mileage will probably vary but that was my experience.
I spoke to a local shop that works on older bikes and is the shop that balances my BMW GS wheels and he said he can't bleed a BMW Gen-One ABS system and directed me to maxBMW. They of course still had the machine but they almost pride themselves on old BMW service so I'm not surprised.
That's about all I can add but looks like you're taking about the same work on that I did except I had no leaky-seals thank goodness.
OK, thanks for the reply on the brakes, makes sense.
Sounds like the bikes you and I bought have somewhat off-setting issues. Although mine has the rear main seal leak, etc., the fairing subframe is in perfect condition - I assume due to the bike never being dropped. I'll have to address the worn FD splines and mating driveshaft splines at some point, but I expect they'll be good for at least a year or two with my planned usage. I primarily bought this for use as a very economical commuter (116 miles roundtrip) which will keep miles off of my GS. That RT fairing and the engine/radiator heat behind it will be welcome for at least three of the four seasons.
I love your bike's blue color, and that Reynolds luggage rack/backrest is a top quality item. Too bad they're out of business.
If you do want to go that route, one of the pieces on my bike has the paint code and I'd be happy to share it with you but I think google could probably do my job for me. It's a fantastic blue! I want to restore her to her previous glory. The K75 motor is not one we should let go of. Huge history in BMW's story and a motor that's just fun to ride and a real workhorse. worth preserving.