AdamChandler's "Rosie Red" 2018 GS Adventure Build Thread

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by AdamChandler, Oct 4, 2018.

  1. andynj

    andynj Been here awhile

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    I take full responsibility for the off track debate above sorry!

    Trying to get it back on track, @Adam did you check your valves and timing when you were down at JVB's tech day? I just did mine for the first time last week and changed all the exhaust valve shims as they were fairly tight and CAM timing looked to be pretty close. All said and done bike felt like it ran a little smoother afterwards but that might be a placebo...
  2. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Nope. Hadn't really thought about doing it since past LC never went out of spec. I couldn't remember if first check is at 6K or 12K but I'll probably just go with the manual on that one (for once).
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  3. miker325

    miker325 Been here awhile

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    And, back on topic... First valve clearance check is at 12K, and then every 12K after that, Adam.
  4. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    To be clear, cams come from the factory out of time. They do not loosen. I have seen brand new bikes out and old bikes in so general consensus is if the cams are out of time they were sent down the production line like that.
  5. andynj

    andynj Been here awhile

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    My left side was very slightly out of time my right side was good. On Both sides my Exhaust valves were at 0.35 so I shimmed them back towards center. The Intakes were spot on in the center of the range. I think I notice a difference but can't be sure, bike is running sweet at the moment regardless :)

    @Adam I don't know how you missed out on this opportunity to purchase some really cool specialist tools...
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  6. antariusjp

    antariusjp Large Title Here

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    Just remember, in spec is in spec. There is no "better in spec" than another. If it's within the spec range, it's fine. When you get to it next adjustment, it may or may not remain in spec.
  7. andynj

    andynj Been here awhile

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    Depends which way you look at it, yes its in spec but at the far end of the range. Clearances typically get tighter, I'd rather set them all in the middle now and probably never have to touch it again just check every 12k.
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  8. antariusjp

    antariusjp Large Title Here

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    My point though is engineers will have taken into consideration the rate at which they often change and decided that the spec they say is spec, is good enough for the next service interval.

    I see what you're saying too, that you adjust it more center and then "you're good for 12k" but at that point you're just re-writing the service manual and not even staying within the written guidelines that the engineers decided was best when they built the engine. If you check it again at 6k, then you did double the work by adjusting it once when it was in spec, to get it "more in spec" and then again 6k miles later.

    Anyhow, none of this is even a real issue with these motors since it's so easy to do -- but in general I check when the manual says to check and I adjust if they're out of spec. No more or less often.

    Ps: I'm not trying to sound condescending or know-it-all. We've all got our own little ways of getting stuff done, as long as it gets done and more people do their own work the happier I am!!
    cmikewil, Rockred and AdamChandler like this.
  9. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Reporting live from the horizons unlimited event 150 KM north of Toronto. More will be reported here once I’m back in USA and BMW has had a chance to look at the bike.

    • “Spring Strut” error so my bike won’t lift or lower the rear shock ESA manually or automatically. No clue why this is happening.. GS-911 is at the house.
    • My left control thing is being erratic. This is where my blinker, horn and cruise control are. All of yesterday, it was completely unresponsive.
    • Off roading, my Denali Soundbomb was crushed by my fender. This was just some light trail riding, no jumps or ruts.
    • In the process of my sound bomb being crushed, the soundbomb fought back and yanked a sizable chunk of plastic off my dust-cover on my right fork. It also damaged the spring that holds that dust seal in place. I had a BMW Tech look at this who’s at the event and he said I’m fine to go home but get to a dealer
    • My Hyperpro / Yacugar Steering Damper is completely unreponsive an covered in its own oil. It’s completely leaked out and luckily has a 5 year warranty so I’ve reached out to Ted Porter so He can send me a new one
    • I removed the Sound Bomb for now so I have no horn but I need to fin an alternative way to mount it. Any advice?
    • The Jesse racks rub on my Akrapovic Muffler. JVB gave me a rubber nipple to go over the bolt but now that rubber nipple is disintegrated due to heat...it basically melted onto the muffler .

    With a bike so heavily modified like mine, you start to experience reliability issues. This is why you need to pick your modifications wisely. Build up the bike for the riding you do. Time to load up the bike and ride 600 miles home without ESA, without a horn without a dust seal on my right fork and a “spring strut” error that I can’t clear because my left controller owner wheel in’t working.

    YAY :)
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  10. miker325

    miker325 Been here awhile

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    On the bright side, not having the horn because you had to take it off the bike is no big deal, since the left side controls wouldn't let you use it anyway... :hide

    Well, at least you got the first real shake down cruise under your belt and you know what you have to do to make things right. There's that, at least.
    LAFS, AdamChandler and Dackrover like this.
  11. mikegc

    mikegc Long timer Super Supporter

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    Dang, Adam, I'm sorry you're having these issues. You purchased superb farkles for Rosie and I'm sure the suppliers will take care of you. I'm confident you'll get this sorted out in short order. Safe travels, bud.

    Mike
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  12. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    yep! I’m not complaining at all (meant to quote MikeGC as well). This is “shake down time” on everything. I expected (and why we have to keep this thread on topic so it’s not locked) that some modifications will come off with time and riding. If I have to go back to my BMW 5-Series horn, that’s okay. Here’s the email I sent to Twisted Throttle:

    Hi Team. I have an issue with my SoundBomb I hope this is the right email. I installed this in the suggested location but today, I hit a pot hole, my front fork compressed fully and my sound bomb cracked and the connection cable is bent as well. The Sounbomb also took out the dust seal on my right front fork on my GS which is going to be a $100 repair I’m not looking for reimbursement but what I’m hoping to accomplish is sending you photo & video of the issue, send you back the wiring & soundbomb, get those replaced and for Denali to let me know if there’ an alternative location I can install this because the current location is insufficient for me. ​

    This is what I sent to Ted Porter:

    My steering damper is covered in sand and its own oil. It leaked out all of its oil so I’m hoping to work through you to get a replacement. I can send you a photo but i was hoping you could do me a favor of mailing a replacement first? I can give you a credit card number. I have Rallies every weekend until July 1st and not having the damper is noticeable. Thank you! ​

    I do feel strongly though about the fact that these are premium products marketed to ADV bikes. Most never leave tarmac but every one of these should survive standard off roading with sand and ruts and potholes. (Aka upstate New York from what I hear) :hide:

    So I hope these companies can work with me and my photo / videos are used for R&D.
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  13. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Sucks Adam.

    I am wondering if the shock is the issue or the controller? A little disappointed to hear a Hyper Pro damper went south. I am saving my pennies for those 3 very expensive suspension parts and Hyper Pro was my top choice.

    Sound Bomb just not a good thing at all. I am sure it is mounted as most all and this potential issue is something people better look at and rethink. I remember there was a RT guy who mounted a regular air horn on his RT crash bars. It may be a choice :-)

    The rub would bother me as a 800-1000 dollar exhaust can being scratched to hell is not a good thing at all. Only thing I can think of is like the Tech Spec tank pads and such cutting up one of those and sticking on the rack, old Grip puppy, piece of black radiator hose wire tied on the rack?

    Adam I hope it al works out for you and this is all the issues you experience from your build.
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  14. andynj

    andynj Been here awhile

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  15. AZgman

    AZgman Addicted to curves

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    I feel for you Adam, but it sounds like you have a good perspective on this and are dealing with it well.
  16. side-burn

    side-burn Been here awhile

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    Man, so very sorry to hear of your troubles. I find your advice refreshing even if light of your status. I’ve decided this bike make get some bling for looks but anything else is staying stock. I’m also just keeping it to roads and double-track dirt. Anything too crazy, like this weekend, and I’m riding my KTM 500 EXC that has nothing on it that can really break and cost me an arm and a leg!!

    Just got finished with a 100 mile ride today on the 1250 and it was glorious!!
  17. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I have to remove a rear shock tonight. I’m so depressed
  18. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I plugged in the OEM rear shock. Error goes away.


    Plug tractive shock back in. It comes back. Calibration on Gs-911 says “motor too hot” on tractive shock

    Attached Files:

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  19. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I actually need to know what you guys think on how to best do this.

    This Friday, Puppy Dog ride with 2 days of dirt + a day of camping
    Next week, I'm traveling
    June 10th, I leave and head down to Tennessee.

    I have:
    broken dust seal
    broken steering damper
    broken aftermarket shock

    Do you think the best solution would be to remove:
    Steering Damper
    Touratech Shock

    and reinstall the OEM ones that do work so I have no interruption in my upcoming events or keep the failed ones installed and deal with the errors?

    I was going to drop my bike off at Max BMW tomorrow to get the dust seal fixed and get new tires put on. I could be really cheap and pay them to do this all for me. Just getting back from a 5 day trip and having work tomorrow has me being lazy.



    EDIT: Spoke to Ted Porter (he makes calls on Sundays).

    I'm to mail the aftermarket damper to him so he can analyze and repair.
    I'm to not remove the tractive shock yet just in case the manufacturer has some advice that we can try.
  20. antariusjp

    antariusjp Large Title Here

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    1) Fix the dust seal.
    2) Remove the steering damper, reinstall OEM.
    3) Remove the aftermarket shock and put your OEM back on, I don't care what the manufacturer says - it's not your job to R&D their products.
    4) Go do your rides and after you get back from the June 10th ride, sort out the damper and shock.

    Reasoning: Riding the bike is the ultimately goal here, so take whatever steps needed to make sure the thing isn't grounded and can get out there! Even if it's not 100%!!