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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by AdamChandler, Oct 4, 2018.
Pb blaster and a cordless impact with the correct torx bit.
Good tools don't help if you don't use them correctly. Looks like you were not all the way seated when you torqued on it. Tap in the Torx fully after you heat the bolt head toll it sizzles. There should be enough meat on it still.
Also worth a try. Lots of loctite on these bolts.
Worse case is to drill the sucker out with a bit just narrower than the threaded part of the bolt...then pick out the remains for the threads and chase with a tap
This was torqued down by my old Torx set and I definitely wasn't seated fully. No Loc-Tite from me but factory definitely has some on there.
PB Blaster, I spray it underneath? Is it safe to heat gun the head(will be careful not to melt the plastic)? That won't melt the bolt?
I'll certainly take up the hammer trick to get it fully seated. I definitely was using the right torx (T40) but this was screwed up already and I basically made it worse.
Yes spray from beneath..it will also wick around the head if you spray from top down...
I’d advise against heat for fear of damaging the plastic and thus creating more work and expense
Thanks. Yeah, the OEM Plastic pan for the subframe I believe is a $250 part.
Off to get some PB Blaster and some courage.
If PB Blaster doesn’t work than a 50/50 ATF and acetone mix might...
JUST DONT HAVE AN OPEN FLAME ANYWHERE....
I had the exact same problem Adam and couldn't apply heat due to the plastic. I tried cutting a slot into the top of it with a Dremel so I could attack it with a screwdriver but that didn't work as it became too weak to handle the required torque and threatened to tear itself, so I then tried a bit with an anti-clockwise thread and still couldn't get the right amount of purchase on it.
A friend of mine suggested dousing it from the top with WD40 and leaving it for 2 hours so I did just that, then got the mole grips on it and gently rocked it back and forth until it came free.
thinking a bit more about this, what if I were to put something around the bolt to allow a heat gun to do its job without melting the plastic. I think that could be beneficial in getting things to loosen up a bit.
Take a breath...or a "breather"...maybe loosen the OCD grip the bike and this whole project has on you for a bit. You have plenty of courage already, a willingness to jump in with both feet, imo.
I know that anyone who has such a carefully laid out sequence of installs and videos to make, etc., has such an excess of mental energy tied up in the effort, that he might not end up doing his best and most careful/patient work, as a consequence. Take things a bit easier on yourself, no pressure...the project and the winter have months ahead yet to go!
Ignore my parental (and likely received as thoroughly annoying) tone if possible -- just genuinely trying to look out for you as a friend, thinking back on how you had wanted to distinguish this bike's modification adventure from your last! Don't want to see you spoil the zen-like meditation of the mod experience, chewing yourself up over avoidable mistakes.
Correct bit and electric impact should pop it out, as previously mentioned.
But if it strips then I would Dremel cut a groove and use hammer type impact with flat bit. That will get it it.
The good thing about this GS build, I pretty much know what to do so each mod is taking almost no time at all. This translates to when I hit a snag like this, I can just stop for the night and chill because I'm really not in a time crunch. I have until April of 2019.
Couldn't get CanOpener wired up given the fact I couldn't remove the top luggage rack. I did get the front shock installed and progressive steering damper on.
Forget PB, get Kroil.
Do not use acetone with plastic, especially ABS. It will melt it.
I've used a rubber glove and the correct bit to remove stubborn allen/hex key hardware before.
Kinda like this
might give that a try.
This. And let the PB blaster sit overnight. Man, I hate it when this happens. Good luck.