AdamChandler's "Rosie Red" 2018 GS Adventure Build Thread

But 2-8% richer means 2-8% more fuel, right? So lower fuel economy? More exhaust gasses, more carbon buildup, higher likelihood of gunked up injectors, increase risk of blow-by and other things you have issues with when more fuel at the same compression is happening? I know very little about motors but with how expensive these motors are, I just am afraid to do anything that impacts the motor.

Plus brass-tacks, the recent I didn't wait for the R1250 is because I don't want more power. The R1200 is already powerful enough for someone riding for 2 years

Check the holding voltage after the BT has been attached for 24-48 hours. Make sure it’s 13.5V or higher. Ideally you’d like 13.8V for an AGM battery.

Stay with what you prefer for sure. I just wanted to comment after doing years of testing as a hobby.

For example, 6% more fuel would mean about 3% less highway mileage but about the same mpg around town since you can often run one gear higher. Regarding the other negative effects, those of us using this technique for years haven’t seen them.

Old mechanics trick: fill the head with valve grinding compound, then tap in the torx bit (works for philips head too). The compound gives a good, high friction bite to the bit.

Oops, read on and saw you got it out.

Glad you were able to get it out, Adam. And now you've got a good set of tools to help when it happens again.

The Tekton stuff is decent, given the price. It's not Wera quality but as a potentially sacrificial part, it's the right price.

Do you have a link to the steering damper you use? What difference has it made?

And like I said, it is "ON SALE" again. $279 this time. But you better hurry or you might have to wait until Christmas when it goes "on sale" again.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-Steel-Motorcycle-Lift-68892.html

Hi (cc @Boondox as well since he liked your post)

It was $360.55 from BeemerShop but Ted does not have it listed on his site. I do know if you want Touratech Branded, the same damper is on TT USA’s Site for $550. It is identical, just a Touratech logo on a HyperPro damper.

This video shows installation and the TT version below
How-To: Install HyperPro / Touratech Steering Damper - R1200GS LC (Stabilizer)



https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Touratech-Suspension-Steering-Damper-BMW-R1200GS-ADV-2014-on

It’s a HyperPro Damper with Yacugar branding. Ted can certainly get it for you. Make sure you get the mount kit as well.

https://cdn.touratech-usa.com/09-045-5832-0.pdf

Just out of curiosity, Adam... and maybe you discussed it somewhere before... but why did you want to change out the steering damper? Was the OEM part not doing what you needed it to? I'm guessing the one I have on my 2015 GS is largely the same as the one you had on the 2018 GSA, but I've never found it to be lacking and am curious about what you expect the aftermarket part will do to improve handling and safety.

Once you change it, you’ll feel immediately that the stock steering damper really wasn’t doing anything. I am being a bit short here but I went from my 2017 GSA with the progressive damper to a 2018 with an OEM damper and it’s like the damper was just completely gone like why have one at all?

The OEM Damper is linear, it’s the same amount of resistance throughout the steering and no matter how much weight on the rear tire. The progressive gets more stiff along the movement and you can adjust it to be harder. Great for off road and loaded up touring. You immediately notice it.

I have a different stabilizer than Adam but I completely agree. It really smoothed out any highway speed wiggles for whatever reason and off road, especially in sand, it makes a world of difference. It's amazing.

Adam: Did the aftermarket horn fit easily or did you disassemble it into two parts as some others have done. I somehow missed your post on that. Thanks

I got distracted with the rear shock installation and doing my Spline Lube stuff. In Philly now so I haven’t been working on this in a few day. Had to grab some beer in PA but heading home today. I think tomorrow I’ll wrap up the Soundbomb install and get some photos.

Are you updating your amazon page with these new tools?

Done! Took a few minutes off at Tired Hands in Ardmore to update the list with he new motorcycle dash cam and tools

https://www.amazon.com/shop/adamchandler

Thanks for the reminder!!!

i picked one of these up last week on the last sale and just got done putting it together today

Amazon: there are different models at different price points-
https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-500-So...TF8&qid=1543248152&sr=1-4&keywords=ecg+butane

Cheap thanks! Grabbed one.

I'm having an issue getting #3 on this parts diagram back in the bike:


Basically, It goes in straight, looks good until thread number 3 and it pops upward a bit upwards. I know better than to force it now and I back out. Have tried roughly a dozen times to guide it in straight. No luck.

It's an M12x75. I'd like to purchase a thread chaser. Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21146-12MM-1-25-Carbon/dp/B000K1LZVM/

...It has a ton of thread-locker so it's possible it's so thick that it's jumping a thread. BTW, I am having the same issue with the old bolt I took out and the brand new one from BMW. I have even tried screwing the bolt in w/o the shock in place and still having it jump a half-thread.

I've learned my lesson. Patience is key, order the right parts and take a chill pill. The bike doesn't need to be operational until end of March.

The parts description for screw #3 is 12mm - 1.5 x 60 mm. You should probably get a thread pitch gauge to check. Or get this tap & die set that includes a thread pitch gauge: https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Amer...words=Vermont+american+metric+tap+and+die+set