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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by sanjoh, May 8, 2014.
Samsung led 1156 bulb on sale for $7ea
Free up some watts!
Do you have the 1157 bulbs for the front of most motos signal lights? I'm expecting a nice $ for Xmas. I'm looking to do all LEDs around my '14 CB500X.
Yes we do have the 1157 for running/turn.
I snagged the ADVMonster H4R3 headlight here: http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-r3-led-headlight/
It's... well it's just okay. It was a bear to fit into the headlight bucket, the cable on the ballast could be a little longer. If the ballast could reside outside the headlight bucket, it would fit a LOT better. But it did all cram in there after some creative swearing. I adjusted the headlight angle and went for a ride and... well, it's better than stock, but it's no Eye of Sauron. I was hoping it'd be the equivalent of a 90/100 H4 bulb without the relays and rewiring and ceramic connector. But alas, it was just slightly better than stock. I'm hoping some aux lights help me see a little better. I know the ultimate problem is the SCR950's tiny reflector. On my V65 Magna, I had rewired the bike with relays and a ceramic plug so I could run a 90/100 watt bulb in the stock reflector. It was really good... but you know what beat it? A stock 55/60 bulb in a VTX reflector. I went from "okay yeah I can see" to "holy freaking daylight batman" just by mounting that VTX headlight on my V65. And then... heheh, since I'd already rewired, I put the 90/100 bulb in there. And with that i felt I could burn down trees! The light was/is amazing.
A poor reflector is just never going to throw a lot of light, no matter what kind of bulb you run. That said, I'm still tempted to try the Evitek F2 bulb next...
Thanks for the feedback Charles. Reflector plays a huge role in with an H4 type bulb., what size is the headlight? I'm surprised to hear talk of a 90/100watt halogen, stock wiring is not rated to carry that load, so you are just asking for a melt down/fire!
As I indicated; I rewired the v65 to handle that. I haven’t put one in the scr950.
I’d guess the scr’s Headlight is 6” or maybe a little less.
Also there is a YouTube video of some poor sap trying to install a similar bulb in a Yamaha 950 bolt (same headlight bucket) and failing to get it in because of the ballast. I was able to succeed where he failed because the heat sink on the advmonster bulb is pliable. But it was tough.
So, after testing, I'm just not very happy with the H4 R3 headlight. The hotspot is not shaped correctly, it's far too tall. It just doesn't throw enough light down the road. It's barely adequate. More of a lateral move from a regualar halogen H4, not an upgrade at all. The dual beam is nice (high and low beams on at the same time), but that is the ONLY time that I can really see. Oncoming traffic blinds me just as much as with a halogen. The R3 bulb just can't power through the glare to help me see the road.
Here's the R3's beam pattern. Note my bike is on the side stand, so it's tilted. I also have a grille over my headlight to protect the glass against stones kicked up by other riders, so you can see the pattern of that on the garage door.
Here's the low beam:
The low beam's hotspot is 5-sided. More or less straight across the top, vertical at the sides, and then it makes a "V" at the bottom. The photo shows the hotspot clearly, but in reality my human eyes cannot tell there is even a hotspot there. There is also no uptick at the right side to light up the side of the road. In short, this is a poor beam pattern.
Here's the high beam:
I can actually see this hotspot in real life, and it lights up the road very well! The low beam is also on, and there's a decent amount of light on the road. The highbeam is better than a Halogen highbeam... barely. But the low beam is what I need to see with oncoming traffic, and it's pretty terrible.
I think I'm going to try an F2 bulb and see if that does me any better.
@ChopperCharles is your headlight straight? On the side stand? Bulb fitment kind of wonky?
Bike is on the side stand, as indicated. Nothing is wonky.
Completely missed that. Thanks and sorry for my confusion.
I used the H4 Natives, perfect fit, but I lost the bottom half of my lens since the heat sync is inside the housing. Pretty good stuff, but I already had nice coverage anyway. Big dual lenses on the FJR
I did also add fork mounted LED aux lights (not ADVmonster, but the pricey guys in CA) integrated with the high beams, adjustable on low beam. Absolutely badass! Its downright stupid how bright things are now.
That is funny as shit
Please post some halogen beam pics, since the H4 R3 is "pretty terrible" I'm sure you'll be putting the stocker back in?
Is this the same bike you posted on before? Yamaha SCR950?
Yeah, SCR950. I'm going to an Evitek F2 most likely, but I'll also try a Sylvania Silver Star Ultra and an Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited before I do.
Got the Nightbreaker and "Katana" branded F2 bulbs in, now I just need a non-rainy, cold day to give them a proper comparison test. I'm also going to test all the bulbs in a 7" reflector as well, just to see if the reflectors make a difference.
Okay, more beam pics! I've got the Evitek F2 bulb (Branded "Katana" and sold on Amazon) and an OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited halogen that I tested tonight.
The F2 is noticeably brighter than the Advmonster R3 bulb, and it has a low beam hotspot that I can easily see. It matches the picture very closely, but both the F2 and OSRAM are completely flat across the top. The camera is over-exposing and showing it as more of an oval. In reality, both of these bulbs have a razor sharp cutoff at the top.
The Evitek has a slight uptick at the right, but it's very slight. The OSRAM doesn't have a noticeable uptick.
Both the F2 and the Nightbreaker seem to put out about the same amount of light on the road. The F2's is a bluer light, and it spreads a slightly wider low beam pattern than the Nightbreaker. The Nightbreaker's high beam penetrates fog deeper than the F2's does. The yellower light of the Nightbreaker halogen bulb is easier to see during foggy and rainy conditions. Even though the low beam isn't as wide as the F2's, the light is yellower and that means I can actually see better with it in crappy conditions.
With both of these bulbs, I recover from being dazzled by oncoming lights pretty quickly. During my ride, however, I found the Nightbreaker halogen allowed me just a bit faster recovery time than the F2. With the F2 and the Nightbreaker, I recover faster in foggy, rainy weather with water droplets on my visor, than I do in perfect weather with either the stock bulb or the ADVMonster R3 .
So, what I'm taking away from this is the F2 bulb is about equal to the OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited bulb in brightness and beam pattern. Both are better than the R3 bulb by a significant margin. The R3 bulb is equivalent to a stock bulb on low beam, and better than stock on high beam. The Nightbreaker bulb has HALF the life of a standard bulb. The R3 bulb should last forever. The F2 bulb should last as long as the bearings in the fan last. The Advmonster R3 bulb uses the least wattage, followed by the F2 and then the standard 55/60 Nightbreaker bulb.
If you're trying to save some wattage, or replace a 35w H4 that comes with a lot of dirt bikes and chinese bikes, then the Advmonster bulb will give you performance similar to that of a stock bulb. If you want to see better, the Nightbreaker is the best deal at $23 for a pair on Amazon. If you want to see better AND save some watts for heated gear, the Evitek/Katana F2 is the way to go.
Also, after ordering the Nightbreaker Unlimited (+110%), I found that OSRAM also makes a Nightbreaker Laser in two different versions: +130% and +150%. I plan to try the 150% bulb next.
Note that the bike is on the side stand in all of these photos.
Evitek/Katana F2 low beam:
Evitek/Katana F2 high beam:
OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited low beam:
OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited high beam:
It would be very useful to know what bike this "testing" was completed on. I appreciate the effort in comparing the three bulbs.
2017 SCR950. Same headlight as the Yamaha XV950 Bolt and Bolt C-Spec.
I will do more “testing” with these same bulbs in a generic 7” headlight shell, and I will also get my SLR out and use the light meter to measure the relative brightness in a controlled manner.
Won't these flash faster than regular turn signals? Is a resistor needed?