Africa Twin air filter change

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by canyncarvr, Sep 10, 2020.

  1. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    142
    Big whoop. Why a thread about a simple maintenance item? Because I found nothing of the sort when I was looking for information. Because there are many tips/instructions/videos that say how to do it that are wrong, with unnecessary disassembly making the job more hassle than it needs to be.

    I have a Honda Service Manual. The instructions for changing the air filters, first step: 'Remove the front cover.' That is ridiculous. It has nothing to do with gaining access to the air filters. How such bogus BS got into a Honda manual, I have no idea.

    A couple other bogus 'steps' listed to get to the air filters...these steps in various videos and step-by-step instructions:

    1. Remove tank side cover. Nope.
    2. Remove tank front cover. Nope.
    3. Remove tank rear cover. Nope.
    4. Remove front spoiler. Nope.

    Rocky Mt. has the best video I've seen...and they are not altogether correct, either. They say to remove the front spoiler. That is absolutely unnecessary. Getting that spoiler BACK in place is a PITA.

    In order to not do:

    1. The side cover does not have to be removed. Only the front allen bolt on it has to be removed. The side cover then easily moves out of the way as the middle cowl is removed.

    2. The tank front cover does not have to be removed. Only the outside allen bolt on it has to be removed.

    3. The tank rear cover does not have to be touched, because the tank side cover is not removed.

    4. The front spoiler stays in place. The bottom up-facing rivet must be removed, but neither the forward facing rivet nor the spoiler itself has to be touched.

    TO remove (not necessarily in order, 'cuz all of 'em have to come off/out to get the middle cowl off):

    Side cover front allen bolt. Front tank cover outside allen bolt. Allen bolt at the TOP of the middle cowl, near the windscreen. Three rivets facing outward in front of the radiator. Single rivet facing UP and going through the front spoiler.

    That's it.

    Remove the middle cowl starting at the bottom, work your way up, then toward the front. There are a couple of guide tabs that fit into the rear radiator shroud, one 'T' shaped plastic tab in the front of the cowl that you need to pay attention to on re-assy. On re-assy, start that 'T' at the front and work back.

    Make sure all the plastic bits meet as they should when you're done putting the middle cowl back on. A bit of silicon grease on the plastic studs and grommets will help a lot.

    No reason to discuss the actual filter change. It's straightforward: Four screws that hold the outside cover on (bottom two are captive), two screws that hold the filter in. There is one plastic tit toward the front of the snorkle that has to be detached from its corresponding slot. The snorkle moves forward to disengage that connection. Just smush it a bit to get it off. Do NOT pull out/away or you will bend/break something. There is a plastic hole cover on the LH side you can remove to see the fitment if you need to. No such hole on the RH side.

    It's a piece of cake. First time it pays to be cautious with the plastic bits. Once you got 'em sorted, you can do one side of the bike in probably five minutes. Time you spend cleaning 'stuff' might add another five minutes.

    RH and LH sides are 'the same' enough to not speak of them separately.

    It would have been very helpful to read this, know this, before my first filter change.

    Yes, other years/models may be different. YMMV and all that.....
    #1
    Amphib likes this.
  2. Appalachian Twin

    Appalachian Twin Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Flat Rock NC, USA
    :clap
    #2
  3. MillennialFalcon

    MillennialFalcon Improvement starts with self

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,078
    Location:
    Rocky Mountains
    What is the side cover, the front spoiler, and the middle cowl? I'm really surprised I didn't see the word "fairing" in this entire post regarding those large pieces of plastic going between both sides of the tank and the headlights... :scratch
    #3
  4. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Oddometer:
    3,339
    Location:
    Cypress, TX
    Based off of all the names used, I'm confused. Maybe take a picture of each part to match up to the names you used?
    #4
  5. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    142
    You did not see the word 'fairing' because that word is not used by Honda to describe the plastic pieces involved. 'All the names used' are terms used by Honda to describe their parts..they are their words/names, not mine. The names come directly from the manual OR from any OEM illustrated parts breakdown. Such IPBs are easily found on the web. The pics below come from the part(s) zilla site.


    SOME things are considered known. 'The three rivets in front of the radiator' I think is self explanatory, as is '...the allen bolt at the top of the middle cowl, near the windscreen.'

    Suit y'all better?

    **edit** Things with this post started getting messy with an edited and re-placed pic. I cannot put it all back together as it should be...but I'm not going to risk with continued re-tries having to do it all over again, either. I have a too sensitive touch-pad that likes to 'do stuff'', unwanted stuff, with a hover of a body part. No, its sensitivity is not adjustable. The two pics should have been at the bottom of the text. I used to be MUCH better at BBS code....I think. **edit summore**Yet...I DID keep fussing with it.... See? I don't listen to me either.
    Honda AT front plastic parts 2.jpg Honda AT front plastic parts.jpg
    #5
    97707 likes this.
  6. MillennialFalcon

    MillennialFalcon Improvement starts with self

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,078
    Location:
    Rocky Mountains
    That makes all the difference, thank you very much :freaky
    #6
  7. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    142
    You bet. The point is to share information, not muddy the process with a lot of extraneous crappola.
    #7
  8. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    142
    Pictures, thousands of words and all that. Come to think of it, the 'facing' description of the rivet is kind'a backwards, isn't it? Oh well. Good thing there are pics that show whatever a 'face' of a rivet is and where it is facing.

    IMG_0442 tank front cover outside allen.jpg IMG_0443 side cover front allen.jpg IMG_0444 allen at top of middle cowl.jpg IMG_0447 three rivets facing outward front of radiator.jpg IMG_0449 bottom UP-facing rivet in front spoiler.jpg IMG_0450 Front spoiler in context with other parts.jpg


    IMG_0443 side cover front allen.jpg IMG_0444 allen at top of middle cowl.jpg IMG_0447 three rivets facing outward front of radiator.jpg IMG_0449 bottom UP-facing rivet in front spoiler.jpg IMG_0450 Front spoiler in context with other parts.jpg
    #8
    97707 likes this.
  9. oldmanb777

    oldmanb777 Just say NO to socialism! It's a bad drug!

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    8,887
    Location:
    Peoples republic of Kalifornia, East...Kolarado
    :thumb Thanks. After riding with a few buddies, it won't be long before I need to do this.
    #9
  10. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    142
    Doing it is NOT a big deal at all.

    I wasn't looking forward to it myself, and I've had my bike apart to install OEM heated grips and the OEM 12V accessory socket. Those tasks are more involved, and a bother. I had a tabletop full of bits and pieces doing that. Nothing like a valve adjustment I'm sure...as I'll find out for myself not too long from now.

    I was apprehensive about it because I read so many different tutorials, how to's, watched multiple videos (all different) and the FSM is a total failure having to do with the process.

    A couple of by-the-way things: Ball-end allen wrenches don't work. At least, my Motion Pro set doesn't. The allen bolt/screw heads are too shallow to let the ball-end get a grip. I'd recommend getting some rivets to have on hand in case you lose or break one of 'em. The center pin CAN be pushed PAST the rivet's release point. Try not to do that. A new, clean rivet pin works OK. Get some thousands of miles of dust and dirt on/in it, the center pin is hard to push into where it should be..which means it is easier to push past where it should be. That happening makes it a bit tough to get the rivet OUT. You will have to push the pin all the through which means you will likely lose it.

    Spares on-hand will be helpful. IIRC, Honda wants $5/ea for them. That is, of course, insane. I got mine from the bay. They are not exactly the same, but they do fit, they latch. I think a url to them won't work here, but you are looking for the specs in the pic.

    Honda AT plastic rivets.jpg

    I changed my filters at 14K miles. That is 2K under the spec'd replacement interval. I did not ride any place awful as far as dirt...a few days on the IDBDR. They were overdue, I'd say. Could NOT see light through them looking at the sun. I replaced them with Hiflos.
    #10
    oldmanb777 likes this.
  11. 97707

    97707 Vulture capitalist

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2014
    Oddometer:
    15,541
    Location:
    Oregon, USA
    Nice job with the pics and clarification. Access to the air filters was one of my red flags about the AT. Especially since some crash protection requires you to remove it too, to get in there.

    As a ride buddy says, "I clean my air filter every 3,000 miles . . . or after every ride, as needed."

    Sometimes it gets pretty dusty around here.


    .
    #11