Africa Twin CRF1000L suspension

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. Torque

    Torque Been here awhile

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    We are replacing the oem with KYB currently with some really impressive parts from Camel. Took apart the old forks and the hard type III anodize to my surprise is holding up. The fluid was really dirty so I made the assumption that they had gone bad but not so. Have to have a look see if something else is going on. Cody is over 200lbs and the bike is here, it is quite evident that the skid plate has rubber on it from the tire.
    Camel ADV likes this.
  2. 97707

    97707 Vulture capitalist

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    Whatever other faults the AT forks have, it seems a condition where the bash plate interferes with fork travel is a recipe tweaking the tubes.

    Dunnit?

    What plate is on there?

    .
  3. Torque

    Torque Been here awhile

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    Black Dog
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  4. Kastenfrosch

    Kastenfrosch Adventurer

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    There was no recall I'm aware of. SW Motech changed their design to prevent contact, but never recalled their original design. With the old design you can provoke contact when braking hard from high speed on tarmac. Very light contact though, and only if you brake really hard from speeds above 100 Km/h.
    Reason for this is definitely flexing fork tubes..... the down-side of lightweight construction ..
  5. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    No issues on OEM forks or Ohlins. ALTrider plate here.
    Further testing this weekend!:D
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  6. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    good question. I think the stockers have a top out of some sort. Never heard the bastards clunk.
    That said, the OOOOOOOOhhhs are back in. Top out re-work done, and 2.5W oil. Blastoff in T minus 59 minutes!
  7. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    I believe you are correct on the pre load adjuster. NEver looked closely at the oem one.
    Aftermarket jobbies, have separate hyd. fluid pushing two pistons apart. Dead easy design, and easy enough to turn. Best to have bike on C.stand to aid in the adjustment.
  8. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    Closed cartridges are a TPITBs!
    I had a 2CS fork on my 2011 ktm 300. Compression had a bladder filled with nitrogen. Never really worked properly and was a bitch to service yourself (2 or three speciality tools needed to service)
    The 4cs in my 2014 xc300 was better. It came re-valved from the PO. Rode a buddy's stock 4CS..like being suspended on 2 by 4s.
    My 2018 Beta 300 has regular jo blow open cartridge forks. Again revalved by the PO, not really sure they needed it but it was a free upgrade with the bike.
    Stupid simple to service, and work as intended.
  9. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    The stock preload adjuster is hydraulic. had it in my hand. cracked the bleed screw and fluid came out. It works properly provided the top spring collar is installed correctly - flange against the spring. Install the top spring collar upside down and the first 18 clicks do nothing until the piston contacts the collar....
  10. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    anyone lowered the suspension by an inch?

    i'm 5'10 with 32 inseam. i can almost flat foot my 2016 DCT with 2 feet. i already replaced the stock springs with stiffer ones. the seat is set at low position.

    pretty much i would turn it into a street bike.

    i wonder if there's any negative or unfavorable effect in shortening the suspension.
  11. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I do a lot of suspension work for locals.I have found that as long as you drop both ends the same no bad handling effects.Actually can make them easier to handle because you lower cg.1" on back can use a link and still work well.The front should have the cartridge pulled out and a machined 1" spacer to put in to shorten rebound travel 1".On the AT the not reusable bottoming stopper has to be removed to pull cartridge.There is now a reusable replacement but not always nessesary.I talked to Rick at cogent and for street use they sometimes leave them out.I would give Rick a call about the mod if your not sure about doing the work yourself.Guys a total guru with adv suspension.Todd will most likey answer phone but if Rick is not buried up to his nuts in springs and shims is happy to help.He built a bad ass shock for me out of stock body to beta test and cannot seem to kill the damn thing.
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  12. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Does anyone have the stock AT springs languishing on a shelf they'd like to get rid of?

    Or trade one stock soft spring for one of my stiffer aftermarket springs?

    The previous owner of my AT put in stiffer springs but they're too stiff for the stock valving (and for our crappy MN roads). It does handle better on road in the corners than the overly soft stock springs, but it's too bouncy for most of the riding I do.

    I don't know what he put in there and haven't opened the forks to see if there are any markings on the springs.

    So I'd like to try the stock springs, even trying replacing just one spring to get a happy medium between stock soft and the hard I have now.
  13. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv 2016 Africa Twin DCT No.272

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    yup. i went back and read it in the manual too. surprised i didn't see it at first since i held it too. its a sucky one.
  14. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Will take a look in garage.If they are still there you can have them for shipping.
  15. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    thanks JJ. i'm comfortable with the forks, though it's limited to WP on the 2013 and older KTMs.

    found this one, kit for the rear. the -30 mm will be the one.

    https://krooztune.store/shop/brands/honda/honda-africa-twin-crf1000l-lowering-kit/

    i bought my rear spring from cogent and will contact rick for the front forks, spacer and shorter springs.

    next is how to deal with the center stand.
  16. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    pm address and will shoot them out tuesday or Wednesday.The center stand is easy fix at any local shop. 20190629_154301.jpg 20190629_154242.jpg
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  17. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    That is a nice strong looking kit.
  18. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Also they use the same springs if its lower or stock.Just have to cut spacer a bit.
  19. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    Regarding the firk wear, the major wear was reported on bikes doing mostly road miles.
    With that, the bash plate is not a factor.
    Besides the 30 years of flexy fork problems known by racetech n others.
    Junglejeff1 likes this.
  20. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

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    Just had a 10K km service done on the front suspenders after Kashima coating done, Forks on Dyno.jpg no issues, buddy has 30k Km on his hard anodizing and they are toast need to be redone. I do run the lower clamps at 12 Nm. Have been running out of rebound adjustment (have been setting to about 1/2 a click from soft but wanted less) Dave tuned up a new config on the Dyno.
    Junglejeff1 and MikefromNL like this.