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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.
I've got my stock springs that are not being used....any chance you are going to the Central Rally?
I sent him mine already lol.
Well I haven't posted on here for a while, really over AT suspension and parts suppliers. Long story short in October 2018 I ordered ATAS upper tubes from Babbits partsonline in the US and paid for them and delivery. Several days later received notification they are on back order, not in stock as claimed. Then a while later they posted them ( their claim), they never arrived, they never notified me of their despatch. Emailed them to find out if they were ever going to send them, ah too late, sent by USPS, nothing we can do basically, love Katrina.
I'm in New Zealand so I have to to suck it up.
The forks made it 42 miles from Babbits in Muskegon to Grand Rapids before falling off the planet.
That really sucks, sorry man. USPS is generally kind of awful with domestic, but no experience with international. I'd Google voice call/skype Babbits and see if you can get an explanation. Barring that, you through your credit card company.
Appears they have a resolve, and money is coming back to me, will know in a few days when money appears in my visa.
What is the correct amount of sag to have in the front and rear? I have the Ohlins shock (with the 105nm/mm spring to handle my luggage) and the Ohlins forks on a standard (non AS) model.
I am aiming for sound 70mm of sage (bike + rider) and that seems to make sense but the installation manual seems to state differently:
This seems to be a lot of sag, especially for the front!
Also, anyone have experience with the heavier spring? From the recommended settings (based on the lighter spring), I backed out the compressions dampening 1 click and added 2 clicks on rebound. Thoughts?
You typically want your rider sag in the 25 to 35% range.
I believe Ohlins forks have about 230mm travel, so rider sag in this range, 58 to 80mm.
Shock rider sag, similar range. Rear whee travel is about 220mm, rider sag in this range, 55 to 77mm.
Adjust to suit your self in this range.
Rebound adjustment. Always do rebound first.
Go for a ride. Get suspension up to temp. Forks ado run pretty cold, but shock does warm a bit. Get a mate to hold bike.
Start with forks, turn rebound adjuster to full soft, so full anti clock. Hold front brake and push down like you hate it. You need to hold brake still, but let forks extend with out resistance from you.
Do it a few times to see how forks react. They will likely fully extend, then settle a bit.
If that's the case, add 2 clicks of rebound and repeat. What you want is for forks to extend completely and as fast as possible, but not settle. Top and stop.
Being Ohlins, you will possibly end up in 10 to 14 clicks from hard.
Shock, looking for same response. You won't use brake, Just Get mate to hold front of bike.
Use same method, full soft rebound, push down on rear area or of bike, around rack is good, and watch the return. Then add clicks of rebound until it tops and stops.
This will get you very close to ideal. Ride and see how it goes. Maybe a click or 2 on forks or shock to taste.
Comp, do last and adjust to taste. Don't be afraid to use extemes of comp adjuster to feel what it does. You will fi d your sweet spot with a little finessing.
You are looking to run in the mid 2/3rds if stroke, front and rear.
Always ride first, then adjust suspension. Forks do run pretty cold, but They do warm up a little. Any adjustment you do cold, will change when warm.
Most adjust suspension dead cold. Thats why i have made this point a few times.
I had ATAS DCT default suspension setup, and had understeering issues, and suspension felt too hard on gravel and Off road. After three days offroad/gravel road testing found following setup:
Preload 10 turns from min (default 8,5), (slightly harder)
Rebound 3,5 turns from max (def 2,25) , (minimum)
Bound 12 clicks from max (def 4), (almost minimum)
Preload 3 turns from min (def 7), (almost minimum)
Rebound 25 from max (def 13), (almost minimum)
Bound 25 from max (def 19), (Min)
Tyres front mitas e-07 pressure 2bar, r heidenau k60 2bar.
One can find these settings are almost softest possible, and front is raised, rear lowered.
Now it is bit oversteering, just perfect on loose gravel. Little weight move and its already turning. When losing grip rear loses it first and is very easy to save just ease gas. Power slides very easy. Driving so much fun again :) Offroad no bouncing, soflty over anything. On asphalt fixed understeering completely, altought have no idea how bad it is on track...
Note these settings are based on my empiric testings for gravel and offroad, not claiming it fits anybody else than me :)
I'm just curious which settings others have gravel /Offroad?
ATAS DCT/ATAS/AT DCT/AT?
So sag is what helps the shock extend when you come across a hole right? going a little on the long side 35% seems ok since the suspension is so long travel anyway.65% of the total suspension travel is still available to soak up bumps. that 65% is longer than 80% on some other bikes.
Thats right. Sag gives a little "negative" travel to help follow road surface.
The accepted norms are 25 to 35%.
Road race bikes typically are at the the 25% end. Everything else, 30 to 33% is plenty adequate.
To muddy the water a touch, static sag, when bike is sitting with no rider etc, on 2 wheels, is typically 10 to 15% of travel.
Both static and rider sag will tell you if you have right springs for your weight.
Here is some info i pieced together.
somehow i hadn't read that thread. I picked up all that from our other suspension conversations. that one had more drama in it. yeasha. so one factor into selecting your sag has to be the size of the potholes where you ride...
Days of our lives for suspension!!!
Yes and no on the sag. More about finding a setting that suits you. 25 to 35% is a big range. Any number of spring combo's could land you in that range and give varied handling.
My personal preference is at firmer end of spring option. More progressive feel.
i had usps lose a FZ09 ECU in the mail. Took them two weeks to locate it. It was insured..but what a shit show that was. Glad it's going in the right direction for you...sort of.
Sending my shock in to konflict motorsports for rebuild/revalve. I’ll let you know about my experience with them. Very customer focused on the front end of the experience so far.
When you said "Shock comp to 8 clicks", is that 8 clicks from full in?
That is correct. Start all clickers from full closed, full clock wise, and count out anti clock.
Yes. 8 from full in.
Since then I trashed the fork seals after a two-long-days Dual Sport BC ride. The dried clay crud from the first day ripped the seals After the first few long strokes the second day.
Had RMR service the forks and shock - new oil, seals and wipers. Installed 0.75 springs up front (no preload). Re-valves forks and shock too.
Now back to near stock comp/reb setting and performance much better.
Apparently the 790 is having bad suspension reliability problems. One guy I follow on insta had a suspension meltdown and blew out the all the fork and shock seals and is stuck in Alaska.
I have 5 sets of suspension for my assortment of KTM dirt and supermoto bikes.
WP open chamber forks + neoprene fork seal protectors = the most reliable forks I've ever owned. Simple design, excellent function, and zero blown seals after I started using fork seal protectors.
The WP PDS shock is by far and away the LEAST reliable shock that I've ever used. I carry a spare shock in the truck at all times.
Easy to destroy seals if you cake the chrome with road clay and wet crud on smooth road without stroking the suspension, then let it dry overnight- followed by some full suspension strokes the next morning. The wipers can’t knock all the crud off and what’s left causes seals to leak.
Easy to wipe down the fork legs with damp rag while servicing the chain each evening.
Carry or make a seal saver / cleaner and use it for emergencies. Stops the gross leaks and keeps you riding.