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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.
I remember that standard AT (2016-18) narrower point diameter is 51mm, so the wall thikness is about 3mm (*Note: in the T7 the diamenter is 52mm for a 43 inner tube, so wall thickness is about 4,5mm). But in the ATAS, the diameter is 55,5mm, what means wall thickness is more than 5mm, and that is such a difference.
That's why I wondered what diamenter will we find in the 2020 model tubes... i bet it's less than 55mm, but more than 51mm
AT forks 45mm...not 48mm, so they would be thicker no? 51-45mm...6mm
Nop, wall is 3mm, so 3mm x 2 walls = 6mm, as you measure two walls (or one wall in two different points) when measuring outer diameter
right...I need more coffee...
Hahahaha, well... that just happens!
OK a little help here?
Which post(s) and or video is the step by step instructions to R&R just the upper tubes?
My 2016 AT already has reworked valving and stiffer springs.
I have basic wrench skills and have done older damper fork rebuilds.
I have new ATAS upper tubes and the oem forks are out.
Paging Dr @Greg the pole , we have a patient in need of your vids.
I'm too lazy to explain tonight.
Bam!, all vids are within the post
After years of mostly not riding the 16 AT I am looking fwd to having it on the road and trail again. Yeah the sticktion after 5-8k mi was horrible.
here to help!
Trail? AT doesn't do trails well...with me on board.
that's why people should treat motorcycles like shoes...
have to have:
hikers (ADV bike)
Light work out shoes/runers (enduro)
Dress shoes (street bike)
One simply does not do it all.
Feel free to use the above to explain to the CFO (wife).
And no I don't know a good lawyer. My wife is ok with the above.
Not single track on my AT! Two track maybe.
I'm an old FF!
I do have multiple motorcycle syndrome. 8
2 completely different rides, for diffetent occassions.
My Minister for war, finance and after hours activities is also quite understanding!!
That's a lot of shoes!
Love the Kwak! good choice!
Minsiter of after hours activities
Got my SSS back from the suspension shop, shortened to 280mm travel, revalved and sprung with .70 springs. Just wow, night and day difference. first thing i noticed the fork flexes so much less that the bike is actually more responsive even with a slightly shallower rake angle due to stock length rear shock. Secondly the responsiveness of the valving is on another level compared to the stock fork, 6-8" washboard gravel totally disappears. I did throw a 10kg rear spring in there for now but the stock valving is really bad and the on point fork makes it painfully obvious. My suspension guy seems to think the body might be the same on the AT 18+ and ATAS 18+ shock that might mean either the shaft is interchangeable or the AT has a travel limiting spacer internally. The current economic turmoil has put the rear project on the back burner for now, might play with the shim stack a bit myself as I do have access to nitrogen.
Big shout out to Corey at Camel ADV, This project would not have been possible without all the info he put out and some trick parts too
P.s Social distancing was in full effect in this pic, just stopped to make a phone call // Ride around the island by myself.
Can't get the fork cap off. It binds when turned. Looks like preload is at maximum. The two nuts (17 and 14 mm) can be locked together or loose but still cap won't screw off even with socket and ratchet.
I have taken two days and next attempt result is same.
I did do ZRX1200 forks (right side up cartridge) a few years ago and had no problems disassembly.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Guessing your talking about these,
They should just undo in normal fashion.
If cap is binding on damper rod, maybe it has been over tightened. You get bike new?
Ensure rebound screw is screwed fully counter clockwise.
Completely slacken off preload too.
Loosen the 14mm nut, gently clamp rod just under this area, then slowly undo cap with 17 mm spanner. If you can heat cap gently, where damper rod screws into cap, and use plenty of lube, it may help.
Gently back and forth, don't force.
Edit, here is a bit out of my forkbrevalve guide on how to set rebound needle when you piece together.
"On re assembly, if you follow manual to screw on fork cap to damper rod, you will end up with only 1.5 turns of rebound adjustment.
To set rebound needle, screw all the way out, then screw in about 3.5 turns.
Screw fork cap on gently until you feel needle just seat.
Hold fork cap and nip up the lock nut. Recheck to see if you have the approx 3.5 turns in the rebound adjuster.
Be careful tightening lock nut. Nip up firm only. A little blue loctite doesn't hurt either. Use sparingly.
I have read of a guy that snapped threaded end off damper rod from overtightening.
Be careful. Damper rod can't be purchased seperatly, only complete cartridge, $500aud. Nasty."
It took great force to loosen. Rebuilt by Konflict. Will try again.
Edit. I did not realize the 17 mm was part of the cap.
Like yeah it was not complicated... doh.
Cap came off fine once the initial loosening the cap screwed off with fingers.
Thanks for the vid and posts.
Interesting no wear on the bushing coatings. Did not expect that.
When stroking the cartridge to pump out all the oil it was very clear there was severe sticktion or binding mid stroke. After a dozen times every stroke both directions.
Could this be my problem stiction wise?
Edit: I have only maybe 2k mi on the rebuild that Knonflict did. Maybe that is why wear on bushings not noticeable. Will still install the ATAS upper tubes