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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.
I will say that it goes up on the centerstand much easier with the 10.3!
That's for sure,just glad it got all sorted out a couple years ago.Much more fun to ride with it not trying to eject us when we hit the bigger dips.I am a happy camper today as I just picked up a new competition ride.
How does the 10.3 work when it is just you on the bike and you hit minor pavement imperfections? Do you get jarring impacts or is the ride still somewhat supple. I get that damping has a lot to do with harshness and a lot of guys discount spring rate but obviously a spring rate of 15 kg/mm would ride like a dump truck if you know what I mean even with almost no damping.
I've made up my mind to stiffen up the forks as well. I'll probably go to a .65 kg/mm up from .55 and that should keep the ride where I like it but firm things up a bit.
How does the 10.3 work when it is just you on the bike and you hit minor pavement imperfections? Do you get jarring impacts or is the ride still somewhat supple? I get that damping has a lot to do with harshness and a lot of guys discount spring rate but obviously a spring rate of 15 kg/mm would ride like a dump truck if you know what I mean even with almost no damping.
It works fine,If I plan on a longer solo trip I just back the preload off a bit.If I road alone I would have put on a lighter spring through for more compliance(traction)off highway. My stock shock body has a aftermarket piston and high Speed and low speed compression adjuster so I was able to really tune it.If you are a long rider go for the softer side of recommended spring rates and compression damping.My rides are mostly under 300 miles and a lot of off highway stuff 2 up but I would go softer if I was more of a touring rider.Valving makes a huge difference in ride.The .82,s in the forks are on the stiff side but not to awful for my use.I would like to go down to .72,s one day.As I get older I find benefit in softer suspension. If that stock shock simply had more adjustment to add rebound damping a spring would be a quick fix.Best to go with springs recommended by a good shop like racetech or cogent. I prefer cogent for this type of bike as RT is more tends to spring and valve a little harsh for normal street riding.I will revalve my gold valves in my fork a bit softer next time I tear into them.Simply makes a more pleasant ride and I don't push the bike as hard as I did a couple years ago.
Problem with ordering out of the US shipping costs for international shipment + import duties. Some international shipments are taking a long time as well due to covid.
I just went through the shim list on their site, and as they sell in packs of 10, unless I'm doing something wrong I racked up $500 worth of shims before I even got to shipping. A majority of those shims wouldn't even be used.
If anyone has extra shims that would be willing to ship me the shims I need, I'd be happy to paypal for the price of the shims, shipping, and extra for the time it takes to collect the shims together.
Works good. But haven’t tried anything else other than stock to compare it to. I wouldn’t hesitate to go with 9.x as long as the valve stack was matched.
When I sent to Konflict they actually called me at the time of order and we talked for quite a bit about what I wanted. I had already bought the spring and was trying to make it work. He says he would have recommended one on the high 9s but was actually a little bit indifferent about 10.3 vs 9.8 for me. The pros can valve it to work, problem is adv riders cruise the freeway at 80 and then hit dirt so what are they optimize for? Pm motociclo if you want to do it yourself. He’s forgotten more than I ever knew.
I ordered singles from suspension direct in California
Cogent ussaully can supply single shims.
Anyone had experience removing fork lugs from the lowers? Is there any peens or set screes or needing to drill etc?
No 8 torx from memory.
Heat, heat, heat.
Add a bit of lube, then start to undo.
Go back and forth gently.
Heat , lube and patience are your friend.
Works on ladies too!!!
I have taken a few lugs off AT legs. Just be patient. Don't force.
So I found out 2 things:
The first thing is that I'm an idiot and was looking to replace every single shim right off the bat even though most of the stock shim stack and be reused.
The second is that after emailing with a suspension place in the UK I learned that many KTM dealerships have individual shims available in their parts fiche and you can just go in and order them. For €35 I can get everything shipped, it would have cost more than that for just shipping from Suspension Direct to NL.
Not an idiot, just was something you haven’t known about before. The blessing and curse of the AT suspension is that you get to learn about suspension. If it hadn’t of come terrible stock I would have been happy with average suspension, now I have great suspension (for any bike). Suspension makes the ride. It doesn’t even feel like the same bike.
God, so much that. Took my second ride on the new suspension, but this time with the lady on the back. Felt totally secure railing it around sharp curves at speed, and the back remained totally controlled over Harsh bumps. Considering it felt wallow-y at best with just me on board before, what a change.
I can't seem to find it.. but you guys must know.
What is the correct part number for the SKF Fork Seal Kit - CRF1000 2016
Is it the 45s ?
Im curious time see what your thoughts are or if you have this problem as well...
I had a reputable shop install the FKA111s a month ago on my ATAS. They really do make a great difference offroad, love them. However, I now notice stiction at the top, it seems as if it gets pinched type of stuck. You could put your weight down on the handlebars and it won’t budge until you give it the front brake and momentum. I now notice it on the ride, as if it is getting worse. When weight is off the front wheel, like on the center stand and me holding the front, the stiction is gone. I’m only one month in. I didn’t have stiction with stock. internals. For the money spent this doesn’t feel right.
Maybe I could try the grease blow by technique to lube the fork seals? Thanks for your thoughts.
Overall fork alignment causing binding? Take the front wheel off loosen the triple bolts then tighten them back up and put back the wheel. Generally start with the easiest thing to do.
I copied this out of a different post: I haven't cross referenced it, check it before ordering.
SKF seals are KITB-45S.
That was my first look, I re-did the install of the forks and tire. I guess I should do that again though, sorta like measure twice cut once.
I don't have any noticeable stiction like that, very good movement throughout stroke. I use seal grease and fork oil to lubricate all seals, bushings and tubes on assembly and low friction green SKF fork seals.
Some things I would try - fork/wheel/axle alignment again, I'm pretty meticulous about it. Check torque on lower triple clamp bolts, I torque these a couple lb ft less than specified in the manual. Pop the dust seals out and lubricate with a bit fork oil and cycle the fork. Back off comp, rebound, preload and cycle fork. If none of that helps, might be best to drop each fork leg and see if one or both are the cause.