Africa Twin CRF1000L suspension

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. Dustymetal

    Dustymetal n00b

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    Not sure exactly how much, sofar the Haan Wheels thing...respoke with thicker spokes, somewhere near $100...front fork revalve at hyperpro without the springs also $100. Both those were payed for by the seller. If i want to get the rest....the set hyperpro sells, front and rear springs plus the oil is roughly $280. And probably another $100 or $150 for revalving the rear and dialing it all in. So give or take $400. @Junglerot, yeah...thought so...I'm about 85kg so i'm going from the expectation that the hyperpro rates will probably be a pretty close match to that since it's a pretty average weight. And I have small kids and no time left to do the work myself.
  2. Junglerot

    Junglerot /dev/null

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    Well the good thing about having it all done by HyperPro is that they know their spring rates, and they should be able to make a shim stack to match. I wanted to do the revalve myself (well not initially, I actually didn't know that HyperPro did that work), so I went with a straight rate spring and Motociclo helped me with the shim stack creation.
    I'm curious about the spokes. My spokes are horribly corroded as most of the '16s are. It was €100 for new spokes?
  3. Dustymetal

    Dustymetal n00b

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    You can give Haan a call and ask. They do want the rims without tire or you can do it yourself and the spoke sets are somewhere around €70 per wheel...plus labour.
    [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

  4. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Has anyone tried the FKA110's yet?
  5. N0madic

    N0madic Been here awhile

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    I have the Ohlins FKA111 cartridges (+ shock) on my ATAS and love it, huge improvement and worthwhile investment for me.
    Zave likes this.
  6. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Does anyone know the length of the inner tube (non-ATAS) ?

    I ask because the previous owner of my bike put in longer .75 springs which are way too stiff for me (190 lbs) and I'd like to put the stock ones back temporarily ... and I suspect he didn't cut down the tubes.
  7. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Awesome ... easy to install? Do the forks need to be separated? It looks all I need to do is remove the cap and the center bolt (bottom) and everything comes right out; installation is the reverse?
  8. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Does anyone have experience with Andreani or Racetech Gold valves on our CRF's ?

    The cheaper option but more work and not reversable are the RaceTech Gold Valves. I did these on my Ninja and they were excellent.

    Or the Andreani cartridges ... half the from the of the Ohlin's ... but smaller pistons (20mm vs 30mm). Bigger piston makes more sense, but is it noticeable?
  9. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    For normal riding the smaller valves work fine.One of the advantages of bigger valves is if you start to push the bike real hard with big fast hits.Bigger valves can move oil better on the big hits with out slight hydro lock.
  10. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    From memory I remember either 300 or 400 mm but has been a couple years so not sure.Also you can put a stock weaker spring in 1 side to meet in the middle as the stockers are real soft.
  11. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I have gold valves in the front and they work great combined with .82 springs.I don't get the reason you say not reversible and don't know the reason anyone would.They are sort of a bitch to install as the old OEM's don't always pull out easy.I also had to chamber some holes the new ones had to bypass to install(small file).1st try ripped the new o rings as they actually are to thick.Next time I go in there I will soften the high speed part of stack some as on sharp hits transfers some shock.Works great everywhere else. Racetech tends to give slightly harsh stacks so best to drop 1 to 2 clicks on the softer side of valving chart.What ever springs you use set your spacer so you have 5mm preload on spring with preload adjusters at full soft.
  12. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    From my memory putting them in my Ninja I recall there was a modification to the cartridge to get the old valves out ... I think I had to drill out rivets or something. Maybe that's not the case with the AT ?

    And yes, I did some chamfering and smoothing of the holes; I did like that I could put attention into making them perfect. But this time I'm leaning towards being able to just drop in the cartridges and be done with it.
  13. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    If I did it again I would drop in cartridges. At the time there were no cartridges for these forks.
  14. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    Have you considered that for the price of the FKAs you could get a full rework of the front & rear by Cogent?
  15. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Nope, wasn't aware that they could come in at that price point (~$1000).

    Thanks for the heads up!
  16. N0madic

    N0madic Been here awhile

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    You don't have to disassemble them but it's worthwhile to clean everything well and use good seals. The Ohlins cartridge install is easier than the stock cartridge, remove the compression needles from the bottom bolts and a fork cap tool (50mm 8 point) if you don't want to risk damaging the caps with some other option.
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  17. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    I’m 150 lb and running 0.75 Racetech springs. Which are longer than stock.
    Stock length of the tube is 400mm without the plastic bit, so the metal tube should be ~35mm shorter for Racetech springs.

    Also check oil height.
    50mm, springs installed is stock oil height with stock springs in place. Given thicker wire, RT springs displace more volume, using this method ensures stock air gap, with springs in place. Using the oem manual of 95mm springs out method, with aftermarket springs, you may not end up with much air gap, and get forks that leak badly. Seen this a few times. Remember, 50mm from top, springs installed. Covers all springs in AT forks."
    Junglejeff1 and NorskieRider like this.
  18. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Are you running the OEM valving with the longer springs or did you go with the RT valving as well?
  19. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    My tubes already have SKF seals so I'd like to not separate them unless necessary. Already have the 50mm 8-pointer. I downloaded the installation manual and it seems pretty straightforward ... it looks like the FKA's come assembled with springs, but I'll have to remove cap and springs to set the fluid level properly, right?
  20. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    Local shop Suspensionwerx re-valved the OEM parts for the stiffer springs my weight and riding style.